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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me start off with the obvious... I know a LSx swapped s-10 will never handle like a ZR1. However, has anyone put any thought into handling improvement?

I used to have a Ext. cab 00 s-10 fleet side bed. 2.2L I had it scaled. 3299lbs if I remember correctly. I had a stereo in it as well. With the fleet side bed and the 2.2L the weight distribution was something around 55.7/44.3 (Front/Rear), 50/50 (corner to corner), and 49/51 (Driver/Passenger). This is based on memory as I can't find my binder that has the layout and numbers from long ago. My memory may be a little foggy as I have slept since then. This was with 32psi exactly on all 4 wheels. Never realized how much that mattered until then!:eek:

So lets fast forward about 8-10 years. I now have a 01 Ext.cab 3-door; step-side bed; 4.3L ZQ8. Haven't had it scaled, but i am guessing with the steel step-side and the 4.3L it is probably around 3600lbs. maybe a little more... But I got to thinking.

LSx engine is approx. the same weight as a 4.3L. Maybe 50 lbs. heavier?

If the step-side 4.3L extended cab gets numbers that are as good or better than my old 2.2L ext. cab, considering the extra metal in the step-side bed, then trying to obtain something as close to a 50/50 weight distribution wouldn't be totally out of the question.

I'm thinking carbon fiber hood (painted to mach stock), fiberglass fenders, battery relocation, and tubular upper and lower control arms should go a long way to achieving a better weight distribution. The BRP Engine Swap kit should help in that field since it places the engine as far back as possible with out modification. With the proper suspension components (i.e. 24-way double adjustable front coil-overs, bumper to bumper poly bushings, 24-way double adjustable rear shocks, 3" drop leafs out back) it should in theory be one heck of a street truck!

I've been on the homework and dream parts list kick for many many years. Some parts have come and gone. Wish I had jumped on a few of them when I had the chance.

Anyone know of any other parts i should consider in lightening the front end and/or relocating to the rear? Or anyone simply have opinions on the ability to obtain a true 50/50 weight distribution? I think the Toyota X-Runners were advertised at .91 G on the skid pad. I'm more than confident (in my own mind) that a Ext.cab; 3 door; step-side;LSx swapped and set up S-10 would easily acheive that or surpass it. Would be really happy to see a .96 to .98 in an s-10. Could you imagine a true g-Machine S-10?:eek: :eek: :eek:
 

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I put a blazer tank in mine and it changed the world. its a different truck with a full tank.
 

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s-series #2?
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there are a number of us trying the same
http://www.protourings10.com/smf/index.php

I am pretty sure my truck was doing pretty damn close to if not 1G on sticky tires before it died.

50/50 distribution is good in theory but not always the fastest.

also, from what I've heard, stepsides are lighter than fleetsides. i have no data to back this up, but I know my longbed is heavier than either.

you never mentioned tires.
tires will be the MOST important thing to get it to stick
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the link! Will definitely start reading. Tires are the most important. I would drool like Homer Simpson to see a LSx swapped S-10 g-Machine! :bowdown:
 

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Im installing a triangulated four link with coil overs and a blazer tank. Hopefully it will hook and handle in the corners. I plan on being lowered 6" in the rear and this would have never been possible with Caltracs IMO of course. Tubular A-arms with coil overs in the front as well. Seems as though 350lb. springs are recommended all the way around for the best ride.
 

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Do what the guys at TrucksTV are doing..irs. Weighs more than a stock axel but evens out the weight distribution.
 

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My truck out handles my friends subaru STi.

Given his only suspension mod is being lowered a bit, and i'm a little more than that.

Bravada swaybars front and rear, stiffer front springs, stiffer shocks, but the best thing that helped was my caltracs in the rear
 

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what blazer tank? 2 door 4 door? I think they may be different? Anywhere I can read more on this?

Thanks!!!

Blazer tank in a truck

I have a 2001 2 door zr2 tank now it is the 1 you need the pump works and the vent came factory. This is not an easy project but it is well worth the time. I have custom slaper bars and the fuel tank mod and it comes out of the hole hard and hugs the road. I have 275/60/15 on all 4 but I am going down to 255/60/15 on my next tires.
 

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I tried to post the link but I didn't get it all I have a thread on the LSX section " blazer tank in a truck" it shows how I did mine and a few others. I did mine the hard way first, the 01 tank is a much better place to start.
 

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if you want another good tip to make it handle, build front and rear crossmembers to strenghten the side to side movement of the frame.

i got a first gen with a 350 and i can tell just going forward the truck's frame is moving a bit cause the new windshield i put this spring started to leak again a couple weeks ago :rant: :rant: .
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have spent a good amount of time under my brothers Toyota X-Runner. The cross bracing under the cab and at the rear was something else on the to do list.

flynlo: thanks for the blazer tank info and i will search for your thread.
 

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I had written up an extremely long post for you, but for some reason it crashed and woulnd't post, and they I couldn't even acces the site for about half an hour, so it may have been too long, lol. Head over to ProTouringS10.com for everything we've written up on building up an S10 to out handle miatas. Unfortunately we're all broke, so we haven't gotten to impliment much of it, but all the maths are done including full simulations of suspension geometries.
 

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The long and short of it is there there are a few issues with the S10, the first and biggest being the front suspension geometry, it's god aweful. GM had their heads up their collective @$$ when they designed it in the 70's for the cars, and narrowing it a few inches for the S10 really didn't help.

In terms of your weight distrobution ideas, first and foremost go lighter, if the options are to remove 25 lbs or move 50lbs from the front to the back, then remove the weight. If it has to stay on the truck and can move from the front to the back, without adding considerable weight, then move it.

50/50 weight distrobution is a great idea, but more important is getting as much of the weight as possible to inside the wheelbase. The reason people love the blazer tank so much is that it adds a pendulum effect both in squat and around corners that makes the truck have better traction in a straight line and feel sharper around corners. I'm not saying it's bad, I have a blazer and will be keeping the stock tank for some time, but it's also not "ideal".

You also want to make sure you do not raise your center of gravity trying to help your weight distrobution. Things like mounting your battery in your bed, just to get it from the front to the back is half-assed, get it in a box, on the frame, on the passenger side.

As for the weight of an LS, it depends a LOT on the engine. Early truck engines weigh more than the 4.3 because they're all iron, just like the 4.3, later truck engines have aluminum heads, and some of the newest truck engines are all aluminum, which are substantially lighter than the 4.3. To the order of 150lbs or so.

Also, removing generally useless things like ABS, traction control, cruise control, the stupid sprayer for your windshield, the vacuum canister, the charcoal canister(if you can, emissions issue) silly plastic covers over things and the likes, you can shave A LOT of weight. Inner fenders even have very limited use on the street and will save a ton of weight. I live in AZ, so I'm keeping my AC, but if you can ditch yours and not die, then that will save another substantial ammount of weight. All of this weight loss on the nose will make it faster and quicker, but will also help lower the COG cause it's all mounted up high and help with weight distribution.
 

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if you want another good tip to make it handle, build front and rear crossmembers to strenghten the side to side movement of the frame.

i got a first gen with a 350 and i can tell just going forward the truck's frame is moving a bit cause the new windshield i put this spring started to leak again a couple weeks ago :rant: :rant: .
With body on frame with bushings, I doubt you will notice frame deflection from the windshield leaking. thats a whole different issue.

I had written up an extremely long post for you, but for some reason it crashed and woulnd't post,
you do this a lot. maybe you should save a backup every few minutes:rolleyes::p
 

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Tires will make all of the difference. You'll need something like a Nitto NT01 with a treadwear of 00.. You won't believe the difference.

I have a friend with a 2002 RC step side who terrifies me when going around an on-ramp to the highway. (Of course he goes through several sets of tires a year.)
 
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