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Grandpa's Fishing Truck

8032 Views 100 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  Ron Popeil
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Hi Folks,

I've been lurking around the forums for awhile and I figured I'd get around to updating y'all on my truck and what I've been up to.

In August my wife's car was totaled and it turns out it's a terrible time to try to buy a new car. Meanwhile, my grandpa's old fishing truck has been sitting for at least a decade and my mom has been trying to get it out of her driveway forever. So it seemed like a good time to get it running and try to get a reliable daily going.

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Here's the pickup as I found it. It's a 1984 S10 Tahoe extended cab with a 2.8, automatic, and the fancy jumper seats I remember riding in when I was little. It's been parked and hasn't run since at least 2009. Notice the massive oil leak underneath it - we'll later figure out that this is mostly power steering fluid pouring from the steering gear.

This is the mess I found under the hood when I found it:

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It was super dirty. Battery was dead. Dirt and leaves everywhere. The field mice had built a pretty impressive nest under the air filter. The oil was overfull, pitch black, and full of gasoline. Plugs were fouled something fierce. It was clear that the gas in the tank had turned to nasty varnish and folks had been trying to start it and flooding the motor with the bad gas from the tank. The upshot was that since it was in the desert and sitting under a car port it's got no rust and the paint is mostly intact.

First order of business was a new battery and deal with the bad gas. I replaced the fuel filter on the carb:

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The old one was pretty foul and gives you some idea of how gnarly the gas in the tank was.

Bought the 7 dollar Harbor Freight siphon, a handful of garage sale gas cans and started pumping.
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I'm generally skeptical of any harbor freight tool with moving parts - but this thing did the trick. Pulled about 10 gallons in five minutes without making a mess.

In this picture you can see the nasty varnish gunk from the bottom of the tank. When I pulled the siphon it left this on the filler neck:
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I forgot to take a picture of the gas itself, and there's no describing how orange brown it was and how bad it smelled. It was time to drop the tank. Here's the tank out after some cleaning on it. Every rubber hose and vacuum line on the car are toast so these lines got replaced.

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This picture of the sending unit will give you some idea of what I was dealing with.
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You can see how nasty and rusty everything was on the sending unit. The filter sock was fouled and the float was dyed orange - but since it's a mechanical setup I figured i could clean it up and make it work. I do like that GM used color coded clamps on the fuel lines so you can keep track of them under the car. I've found that the color clamps are also found under the hood where the lines leave the frame rail and meet up with the mechanical fuel pump and smog canister etc. Green is feed, red is return, and the yellow is a smog vent line.

No one had a part number for the Filter sock / strainer at all. I had a really hard time at the auto parts store explaining to the folks that I wasn't making this part up. Eventually I convinced the kids at O'Reillys to do a search for the sending unit sock for any Chevy pickup of that year - since most of that stuff is interchangeable. If anyone else needs this thing here is the part number from parts store computer - you'll want the one for a 3/8ths fuel line.

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Cleaned the tank out using a box of fancy gas tank cleaner and an afternoon of elbow grease, and then it went back in.

I've seen a bunch of folks pulling their beds off or cutting the beds to get to this stuff. But I'd say once you get the hang of it, it's relatively easy to get the gas tank in and out without resorting to any sort of theatrics. One trick I found was if you lift the gas tank just high enough with the filler neck still removed you can see clearly all the line connections you need to make through the filler neck hole while also being able to reach up under the fender to make the connections.

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Just before I buttoned everything up, I stuck a universal clear filter inline at the frame rail so I could prevent any left over gunk from the tank getting to the fuel pump. It's paid off over the last few months. These filters have caught a bunch of garbage I wasn't able to get out of the tank / lines and are really easy to replace at 4 bucks a pop.
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That's all I can manage for tonight. I'll catch up more on what I've been up to when I get a chance.
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I enjoy reading stories like this. I did something similar with an 85 S15. When I considered replacing the gas tank, I thought, there is no way to remove this thing with the bed on! So, that's the way I did it. I am amazed you got the tank out and in. So, how did the truck run?
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as perfect and as original as that appears to be, id be curious to see what it would bring at auction. i bet an easy 10k
Great start to a truck rehab. I had to pull my tank last week due to the engine pinging from some bad fuel; dropping the tank out is like a 20 minute job. I removed the filler neck from the tank for more wiggle room; the neck is not solid from filler body to tank, but held together with rubber hose and two clamps. 3 bolts to remove the body from the fender, 1 bolt for the sending unit ground (on the frame), 2 tank strap fasteners, 4 mounting bracket bolts on the frame, sending unit wire on top of the tank, 3 hose clamps and the tank is down.

Looking forward to reading how it runs!
Looks like a great project and keep up the postings/ photos. I would have replaced the sending unit while you had evevrything out - the pictured one is a bit gnarly for my liking & not one I'd be inclined to reuse.
This is awesome!!!!! I cat stand when people cut their beds instead of just dropping the tank. Drives me nuts and it’s not even my truck! That truck is sweet!!! Keep posting please

Yowakawaka
@Gary Holden, @S15E83, @Yowakawaka I'm glad y'all are into it and I'll be sure to post updates with pictures when I get some free time.

@bk2life I guess I didn't think the value of these things were nearly that high. Also, it's got some issues on the interior that need to be worked out. -I'll post those pictures soon. (Also, I've been following that Scout build and I'm way into it!)

@aitch You're absolutely right - I'd never stick that thing back in the way it looks in that picture. I should have gotten an after pic. I hit it with a wire brush and I was able to get it really clean. I knew the float was good - because I had a fuel gauge working when I stuck a battery in it. And I was able to bench test the circuit with a multimeter.
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@bk2life I've been following that Scout build and I'm way into it!)
cool! its been a bit slow last couple months, ive got 2 other scouts im working on as well. Mainly getting everything ready for powder coating.
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With the tank back in, I poured in two gallons of fresh gas in case I needed to drop the tank again. I changed the plugs, the oil, and the oil filter. I didn't have plug wires, a cap or rotor but was too amped up to wait to start the thing.

I figured I'd take a look at the cap and rotor before I tried to fire her off. I found a few shocking things:

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First, the distributor is on the wrong side of the motor. I don't know how you Chevy guys put up with this. Second, the cap was a one piece with the wires built in so you can't remove them individually.

The rotor was toast - you can see it's fouled and it's smashed up at the tip.
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Likewise, the cap was a mess. All the connections/ posts were fouled.

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I wasn't about to wait for the parts store to order these so I grabbed a file and a bit of sand paper and did what I could to clean them up. I cranked it a little to prime the motor. Got a bit of oil pressure and hopefully some fresh gas to the pump. Took a few squirts of ether to the two barrel and turned the key. She'd pop off and die. After a few tries she fired right up!



She smoked for a few minutes and as you can hear, there's a bit of a top end lifter tap that went away after a minute or two. The truck idled at about 750 and warmed up nice. I put it in gear and ran it up and down the street a few times to check steering and brakes. The brakes were ok but the power steering pump was bone dry. I lucked out as there was a fresh bottle right in the cab (that's your first warning sign). So I topped off the steering and limped it down the road to the coin operated car wash. I thought it would be nice to get a decades worth of dust and dirt off the thing. Not much of the gunk came out of the engine bay - it might be the leakiest engine I've ever seen. Absolutely filthy.

After it made that little trip, I was confident enough to try to run the truck a couple miles back to my garage.

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Here she is at home!

A few things about that drive: it's gutless. I'm not sure if it's my 2.8 or it's all 2.8s but this thing had a **** of a time going up hill, or getting up to 40 miles an hour. I'm sure there's lots of tuning to do, but still it's gutless.

It wanted to overheat a bit - so I needed to check out the thermostat etc.

And I've got some electrical gremlins in the dash. The radio display only wants to come on sometimes and it picks and chooses what information to share with me at it's own pace. The fuel gauge too - it was working when i put the battery on and was tinkering in the drive way but stopped working on the ride over. It's come back on and shut itself off a few times now since I brought it home and I've confirmed it's not the connections at the tank. I'm pretty sure I've got a bad ground or a blown fuse - so I've got that to look forward to.

All in all, I'd say it was a success. I've got much more to update - but that's what I can manage for tonight.
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Well, congrats! With some more time, patience, and elbow grease, this ought to be a nice project. It's always nice to start with a pretty solid base to work with/ on. You must live a pretty charmed life - from what I could see in the video the engine compartment is farrrrrrr from the grungiest engine I've come across. One was so completely encrusted (top to bottom) with sludge/ dirt/ debris you literally couldn't even see the bolt heads, let alone even begin to guess about other totally oscured parts/ pieces. That was a really nasty one to work on.

The S10's seem to have some "issues" with electrical gremlins. Frequently, it can be/ is a ground issue (and there are plenty of locations to check). Also, be sure to carefully check all of the cable connections and their condition. Sometimes older cables may look OK on the exterior but have concealed damage such as corrosion and or partial breaks that can, shall I say, vexatious.

Keep up the postings and progress reports.
If you recall a couple folks recommended you replace the fuel sender. Sounds like they were right. Those things don't work consistently once rusted. It's a fairly antiquated device. Simply a float running up and down on some high resistance wire. If for any reason the float arm isn't making good contact it fails to read correctly. or if the wire winding is at all compromised.
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If you get it on the road, please put a gas filter in it with A&N fittings.
If you get it on the road, please put a gas filter in it with A&N fittings.
Why? Not like it's a high performance engine or pump. Those filters have been used since The Flintstones.
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Nice work! I'm not sure if you were being facetious, but the wire retaining clip pops off the cap and the wires; it is held on with clips on the side. To install, pop the wires into the retainer first, and then seat the entire set on top of the dist. cap. Once you do an oil change and actually get it running right, a quart of Marvel will quiet the top end down. The 2.8 won't win any races, but it should easily push the speedometer needle past its highest number (on an airport runway and not a public road, of course).

I agree with the above comment; that's a pretty clean engine. This one I rebuilt this past Summer had far worse oil leaks, so much so that it cooked a cylinder. :)

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@aitch and @oldeerslayer I'm 100% prepared to eat humble pie on the sending unit. I agree that in a world where I've got more money to spend, I'd splurge and replace the sending unit. I couldn't find one for less than a franklin and my thinking was that I was getting a good signal from the sending unit during a bench test. With the multimeter I got a good strong signal that moved fluidly as I pushed the float up and down the travel. Now I also get a good signal with it in tank and the signal moves in the right direction as the fuel level goes up or down. The issue I have is the gauge cuts out intermittently and it cuts out in conjunction with the radio display. This leads me to think it's a joint ground issue at the dash. But I'm also prepared to admit I was a cheap jerk when I have to drop the tank again. It wouldn't be the first time I've been accused of being a cheap jerk 😅 so I'll keep you posted.

@FLORIDA BUTCH, I'm inclined to agree with @Rhotpursuit. The rubber fuel lines and clamps I'm using are superior to the factory ones and the fuel filter isn't far off from the cheapo aluminum ones that came stock on many of these trucks. I'm unclear on the benefit of an fittings - but I'd like to think I'm open minded. I've tried to tuck it away on the frame rail and haven't had an issue running inline filters like this in the past.

@S15E83 I'm being partially facetious. The plastic holding the wires to the cap was so cooked that any play from me caused it the crack and disintegrate. The top end isn't click clacking after that first start up but I've thought about stuff like marvel and seafoam. Do y'all think it makes a difference?

I'll get some pictures up of the gunk on the motor and the leaks I'm talking about. I promise I'm not being a drama queen.

(Maybe I'm a drama queen. But I've got leaks coming from both valve covers and the oil pan and somewhere towards the back of the block that I'm praying isn't a rear main seal or the distributor. I've got a leak on the trans pan that I hope to tackle this weekend. Time will tell.) Thanks for the feedback!
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@aitch and @oldeerslayer I'm 100% prepared to eat humble pie on the sending unit. I agree that in a world where I've got more money to spend, I'd splurge and replace the sending unit. I couldn't find one for less than a franklin and my thinking was that I was getting a good signal from the sending unit during a bench test. With the multimeter I got a good strong signal that moved fluidly as I pushed the float up and down the travel. Now I also get a good signal with it in tank and the signal moves in the right direction as the fuel level goes up or down. The issue I have is the gauge cuts out intermittently and it cuts out in conjunction with the radio display. This leads me to think it's a joint ground issue at the dash. But I'm also prepared to admit I was a cheap jerk when I have to drop the tank again. It wouldn't be the first time I've been accused of being a cheap jerk 😅 so I'll keep you posted.

@FLORIDA BUTCH, I'm inclined to agree with @Rhotpursuit. The rubber fuel lines and clamps I'm using are superior to the factory ones and the fuel filter isn't far off from the cheapo aluminum ones that came stock on many of these trucks. I'm unclear on the benefit of an fittings - but I'd like to think I'm open minded. I've tried to tuck it away on the frame rail and haven't had an issue running inline filters like this in the past.

@S15E83 I'm being partially facetious. The plastic holding the wires to the cap was so cooked that any play from me caused it the crack and disintegrate. The top end isn't click clacking after that first start up but I've thought about stuff like marvel and seafoam. Do y'all think it makes a difference?

I'll get some pictures up of the gunk on the motor and the leaks I'm talking about. I promise I'm not being a drama queen.

(Maybe I'm a drama queen. But I've got leaks coming from both valve covers and the oil pan and somewhere towards the back of the block that I'm praying isn't a rear main seal or the distributor. I've got a leak on the trans pan that I hope to tackle this weekend. Time will tell.) Thanks for the feedback!
I've been around the block a few times, and have heard good things about Marvel. Never had an occasion to use it, but I have a can of it on the shelf that's been there 40 years. Seafoam on the other hand seems to be hated for the most part. People pour it down the intake and marvel (no pun intended) at the amount of smoke pouring out of the exhaust pipe, thinking that's all of the junk being removed...don't think so.
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I’m far from an expert, but have used Marvel many times to great results, and never to a bad one. Replace 20% of engine oil with Marvel. It’s a great, but slow, engine cleaner; don’t want the sludge dislodging too fast and blocking the pump pickup.

Couple of anecdotes: in 2018 when I repurchased one of my cars, the “interim owner/renter” used some oil way too thick for upstate NY in Jan and the lifters were horribly loud, even after a switch back to 0w; MMO cleared them out and they’ve been quiet another 50k miles later. The 350 I swapped into my 442 was sludge City; MMO gave the gentle clean and its been smooth and quiet for 10k miles. Last summer I dragged this ‘81 E21 out of its 17 year hole and found the engine stuck; filled the cylinders with MMO and air for a week, and the engine freed up nicely so that I could rebuild its timing set and get’er going. MMO also quieted and smoothed down my Captain’s 265k Ranger 4.0.



That’s a bit worse starting point than Mr. Popeil’s. ;) Before the common use of full synthetics, I enter a new/old vehicle with the assumption that there is sludge that needs cleaning. I’ve never stuffed it through the intake, but have used as a fuel system cleaner. All anecdotal, of course. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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@S15E83 I guess I'll have to give that Marvel a try. That E21 looks super cool.

Once we got the truck home, we could dig through interior properly. First, we confirmed that it had been parked since 2009 and it's got 113,000 miles on it.

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It needed a bunch of cleaning and going through. You can see I've got some projects in here like the rip on the driver's side arm rest, and driver's seat.

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I scoured the junkyard looking for this black and white checkered fabric to fix the seat but all I could find was the red and white pattern on a very picked over blazer. The dash pad used to be blue. But it's done it's job well since there's no cracks in the dash. - That wild for a car this old in the desert. The steering wheel has the infamous GM sticky thing going on.

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I found the cool RPO code sheet in the glove box along with absolutely every receipt grandpa ever got for maintenance on this thing. He was super meticulous about it I guess.

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I found the original receipt from when he bought the thing! He got it used from a Nissan dealership in 1989 with 73,000 miles for $5700!!

Also had the owner's manual in the glove box.
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Time for cleaning.

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After cleaning - you can see the carpet is toast.

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I also took the opportunity to swap out the thermostat, the radiator cap, and I took a brush to the thermo housing because it was looking pretty grungy.

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More to come - but that's where I was right after bringing the thing home - It was a total time capsule.
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I wonder if my truck is supposed to have a center console like yours??? I have the rubber floor and have no complaints. Easy to clean!! Looking good. Keep up the good work.

Yowakawaka
I wonder if my truck is supposed to have a center console like yours??? I have the rubber floor and have no complaints. Easy to clean!!
Right? I had an old ranger with the rubber floor and it was super easy to clean. I think I'm just sentimental enough about this thing to replace the carpet at this point. And the console is the stupidest design. The hinge thing is busted and it doesn't want to latch nice. I found three in the junk yard and they were all broken in the same spot. So maybe you saved yourself some trouble not having it.
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