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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a glow shift trans temp gauge here I want to install, with the stubby sending unit for a 4L60E and all the goodies.

Here's my questions- How do you get to the test port on the side of the trans to install the sending unit?!?

I've been trying to find a way to get the thing in there for a couple days without pulling the front drive shaft. No luck- I can't even see the damn thing.

Any suggestions?

Merlyn
 

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B4U Task Force Admin
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Seems me I asked @Tranzman about that....it doesn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Which part doesn't work? The sending unit, or the test port or...

I might have a perfect excuse for an aftermarket trans pan here...

Merlyn
 

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The port. There are inline temp units that splice into the cooler line.
 

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Randy
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The pressure test port above the shift linkage is a dead end port. Meaning there is no flow past it. I have heard of some using it with decent results.
In my opinion the pan is the best place for a gauge. Here is why, the flow starts and ends in the pan. Here is the way it flows.
1) From the pan it is suck up through the filter to the pump, for line pressure.
2) From the pump to the converter (the heat source)
3) from the converter to the cooler
4) from the cooler to the pump as return oil
5) return oil becomes lube oil for all the bushings and flows rearward in the input shaft, to the output shaft. All this fluid is then dumped into the pan to start the cycle all over again.
If you use fluid going to the cooler, you will get a reading showing the hottest temp the fluid will ever get. If you use the cooler return you will see the lowest temp the fluid will ever see. There is reason that the engineers put the fluid temp sensor in the pan with the PSM (pressure switch manifold). I'm a mechanic and sometimes disagree with engineers. this is not one of those times...
 
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited by Moderator)
Update:

It's installed and working pretty well, seems like.

Since I am at some point going to swap the pan for deep version, I installed the sensor in the pressure test port. I checked the exploded diagram for the transmission, and it's not a blank hole, it takes a 90° turn and opens out into the space behind the pump. I'm still going to put the sensor into the new pan once I get it, just to be sure I'm getting the most accurate possible reading.

It builds heat to 200 and stays there, which is why I'm upgrading the pan. I'd rather see 180.

As for the test port install... Once you unbolt the front drive shaft, it's doable. It's a pain in the *** of epic proportions, but it's doable. Pack a lunch.

Merlyn
 

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Update:

It's installed and working pretty well, seems like.

Since I am at some point going to swap the pan for deep version, I installed the sensor in the pressure test port. I checked the exploded diagram for the transmission, and it's not a blank hole, it takes a 90° turn and opens out into the space behind the pump. I'm still going to put the sensor into the new pan once I get it, just to be sure I'm getting the most accurate possible reading.

It builds heat to 200 and stays there, which is why I'm upgrading the pan. I'd rather see 180.

As for the test port install... Once you unbolt the front drive shaft, it's doable. It's a pain in the *** of epic proportions, but it's doable. Pack a lunch.

Merlyn
Using a larger pan will equate to cooling a larger volume of fluid through the same cooling system. It will take longer to reach operating temperature, but also longer to cool down. Even the deep pans with fins on them seem to hold that heat in if you watch the temps. If you want results, add an external trans cooler on the return line from the radiator. Down here, this is a serious problem I deal with regularly. "But that Mag hy-tech looks so hardcore!"
 
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