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Discussion Starter #1
Alright guys, well I am going to shave 2 second gen S-10 doors and the last time I did of course they warped pretty good, even just tacking them in slowly. This time I was thinking of using FUSOR or PanelBond metal body adhesives to hold in the filler plates rather than warping the door with welding. Most people I have talked to said that stuff should hold as good or better than welding. What do you guys think about this? Should it work out well? I was also going to use it to hold in filler plates in my roof seems / drip rails. I don't want this work to crack ever. Panel Bond is very expensive for the gun ($250) and hard to find. I can buy the FUSOR products off the internet and get the gun for $40 and the 225mL tubes of the metal adhesive for $25. I have even read that some people like this stuff better than 3M Panel Bond. What do you guys think? Will the FUSOR work well for me and hold up forever?

Here is a link to the FUSOR stuff: http://www.lord.com/Home/ProductsServices/Adhesives/FusorAutomotiveAftermarketProducts/Products/MetalAdhesives/tabid/3400/Default.aspx

Let me know what you guys think!
- Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, from people who have actually used it, how did it end up working out over time? Did it ever give and crack? Its just with doors and the drip rails, no matter what you do you are going to warp them, and if people successfully use this stuff all the time, then it just seems like an awesome opportunity to make the job better.
- MIke
 

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6 of 1 half a dozen of the other,, there are good and bad to both sides, that's why there is a argument every time..

but as far as holding up.. you do have to consider that the auto manufactures are using it for alot of their production vehicles.. Just have to use it for what it is intended for.. :)
 

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yeah waht mopar said... OEM's have been gluing roof panels on for years... used correctly it is just as strong as a weld and water tight... good stuff...
 

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but it is not intended for butt joints...it's meant for glueing flat to flat where there is no exposed seam.......

i've been down this road so many times before i am not doing it again......

learn how the glue is intended to be used and then glue in your filler plates at your own peril
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After talking to a few people I hear that it makes like a ghost outline where your plates are, that i definitely don't want. Even though, with the door filler plates it is flat metal on flat metal because you have that lip inside the door handle hole where you would put the bead of adhesive and then stick the flat filler plate over top of it.
- Mike
 

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After talking to a few people I hear that it makes like a ghost outline where your plates are, that i definitely don't want. Even though, with the door filler plates it is flat metal on flat metal because you have that lip inside the door handle hole where you would put the bead of adhesive and then stick the flat filler plate over top of it.
- Mike
but there is a butt joint.......

but i'm glad you did some research and decided against it....good call:D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
but there is a butt joint.......

but i'm glad you did some research and decided against it....good call:D
Yeah me too, research is key.. i've rushed into things before and that never turns out good.
My thing is i just wish there was a better way to weld the doors and drip rails where i won't warp the hell out of the doors and roof ya know? I know you can tack it slow and let it cool, but it seems no matter how long i let it cool, it always warps. :rant:
- Mike
 

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