S-10 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1998 Jimmy 4WD 4-door





Three lines attach to the plastic tubes shown above. How do I release the clips? It's not so easy to get my arms up in there, so please let me know what tool you use (needlenose? screwdriver?) and how you go about it.

I can lower the tank partway, but I'd just as soon have these off so I don't break the lines.

I got the electrical connector off, but I can't get in up there well enough to test it with a voltmeter--any ideas?

Thanks.
 

·
i saw what you did there!
Joined
·
3,573 Posts
i always open the harness up along the frame rail close to the tank as possible to test wires


on the fuel line clips you pull them up a little they are like U shaped and pop up a little then the lines will come off

if not then you just squeeze them and pull

sometimes push then pull real quick while squeezing

sometimes its a real PITA to get them to let go
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds good on the clips, thanks. I will give it a shot when it stops raining around here in a day or two.

How do you check the wires without cutting them? Something that pierces the insulation would worry me. I might be able to get my son's hands and arms up by the connector, we'll see.
 

·
Sure why not.
Joined
·
2,202 Posts
You need a fuel line removal tool they are barbed lines the tool depresses the barbs. Youll never get em off any other way at least not without damage.




And what exactly are you trying to test with the wires? The sending unit or something? Easier to test the fuel pump with a pressure guage cost 40 bucks or so at a parts store. Takes 20 seconds and you can do it in your best suit lol.
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pu...o0IyBMrodOUxucez0SINxkf57xlbowUPdO3RyHUwvS1mI
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd like to confirm that I'm getting 12V when the key is turned on or while cranking. If it's electrical, I'd rather not drop the tank. The tank is 3/4 full, I'm having a hard time detaching the fill and vent hoses, the strap threaded rod is heavily rusted.

Where would I get a fuel line removal tool?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You need a fuel line removal tool they are barbed lines the tool depresses the barbs. Youll never get em off any other way at least not without damage.





That's not the right clip. They are very similar to the duck bill clip shown here, but the spring part lines up with the tabs on the ring.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was finally able to get a tester onto the connector at the top of the tank. I have 12V on one lead for 3 or 4 seconds when the key is turned on.

I have tried several different needle nose pliers of different sizes, with and without a hook in them, to squeeze the fuel line clips. It's just too tight to get two hands up in there and be able to pull the line while squeezing the clips. I may have to get my son to help.
 

·
Sure why not.
Joined
·
2,202 Posts
Thats whats supposed to happen... That red thing I showed you is the tool used to removed the lines not the safety clips that hold them on that your talking about... Use your test port and a fuel pressure guage to check your fuel pump its way easier that dropping the tank litterally takes seconds... Cost you maybe 40 bucks and its a tool you can keep and use forever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh I see, I thought your picture was of a type of clip. Where do I get one of those? The guys at NAPA had blank stares when I asked them for one.

I'm pretty certain the fuel pump is not working. I have no fuel pump sound (opened gas cap to relieve pressure, key on--nothing). I have zero fuel pressure at fuel valve stem on fuel line going into throttle body. My engine starts on starting fluid and runs as long as fluid is sprayed in throttle body. When spraying is stopped, the engine stops soon after. I checked the fuel pump fuses and relay by swapping them with others--all good. And now I've confirmed power at the connector at the top of the fuel tank. With my ear right next to the fuel tank, I do not hear the fuel pump when the key is turned on.

I'm thinking of splicing in an inline fuel pump and seeing if it will pull fuel through the old pump. I've read that sometimes they do, sometimes they don't. It should be a lot easier than dropping the tank on this crusty rusted bottom. It doesn't bother me if it's loud and "not cool"--this truck will probably only last another couple of years anyway. Thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh, I found it on Amazon, and I also see that Sears has fuel line clip tools specifically for GM. I'm checking on stock near here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This one from OTC:




I found out Sears doesn't stock them in the stores. Can only find them online, not in a local store so far.

It looks like I could slit some thin tubing and slide it into the fitting to do the same thing. Might try that.
 

·
Sure why not.
Joined
·
2,202 Posts
Pretty standard tool I bought a full set for every car that uses that type of fuel line like 5 tools made of billet for 25 bucks at my local Oriely's parts store... In order to install an inline pump you still have to drop the tank remove the defective pump portion of the fuel pump assembly replace it with an intake high pressure rated FI hose then splice into high pressure fuel line to use what essentially is the same pump that you just replaced with a hose on the outide of the tank the walbro 255... Whatever pump you choose will need to have an operating PSI of at least 47 psi. Check ebay they sell the whole new GM type assembly with sending unit and all for like 90 bucks its not that hard to drop the tank. 2 nuts, 5 hoses, 2 electrical connectors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If there is a Harbor Freight close they have these tools.
Cool, thanks hotrod. The Harbor Freight isn't real close but I had to be out that way anyway tonight. Picked up a set of fuel line disconnect tools plus a better radiator hose tool than I've been using. Will continue in the next few days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Pretty standard tool I bought a full set for every car that uses that type of fuel line like 5 tools made of billet for 25 bucks at my local Oriely's parts store... In order to install an inline pump you still have to drop the tank remove the defective pump portion of the fuel pump assembly replace it with an intake high pressure rated FI hose then splice into high pressure fuel line to use what essentially is the same pump that you just replaced with a hose on the outide of the tank the walbro 255... Whatever pump you choose will need to have an operating PSI of at least 47 psi. Check ebay they sell the whole new GM type assembly with sending unit and all for like 90 bucks its not that hard to drop the tank. 2 nuts, 5 hoses, 2 electrical connectors.
Thanks, rhygin, I did read online the last few days about having to drop the tank anyway to install an inline (out of tank) pump. In addition to the possible restriction caused by the pump, the accordian tube above the in-tank pump is designed for positive pressure, not vacuum, so it can collapse when an outside pump tries to pull fuel through.

Dropping the tank is a serious PIA, though. This is after 12 Midwestern winters. The front nut on the threaded rod holding up the tank is rusted really solid. As I've said, I'm afraid to use a torch, even with the thin heat shield next to the plastic tank. I've been soaking it in penetrating oil spray. I think my next step will be to suspend a can full of oil around it. The electrical connector has been easy to remove. The three small lines going to the pump assembly will hopefully come off now that I have the tool. The big fill hose and the smaller vent hose are virtually bonded on now. With another radiator hose tool, I hope to make some progress there. The clamps holding them fell apart when loosened because they were so corroded. Salt on roads is just great.

Once I confirm the pump is bad, I think I'll go with the Delphi pump from getgmparts.com.
 

·
Sure why not.
Joined
·
2,202 Posts
No problem. As for the locked up straps and whatnot they are pretty easily hacked through if they are already unusable might as well just cut em off at the back side with a hacksaw or whatever you want sawzall I dunno good pair of cutters wouldprobably do it then you can get to it with the torch once the tank is out... 60 bucks a pair to replace the straps...



Still cant stress enough the usefullness of the fuel pressure tester guaranteed to let you know wether or not that bastards working before you go through the trouble...
 

·
Sure why not.
Joined
·
2,202 Posts
BTW last time I changed mine I cut a hole in the floor on top of the pump and made a hinged door lol... If you plan on keeping the truck thats the only way to go cause these pieces of shit go out quicker than spark plugs... Even the $400 AC Delco ones...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I may end up with new straps. I'm still battling checking the wiring. I'm going to start a thread on that.

I looked at cutting an access panel. I pulled the rear seat and carpet. There is a seat belt bolt too close, and looking from underneath, there is a left-to-right crossmember "beam" in the way. Otherwise I'd have done that in a heartbeat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK, I am tearing my hair out over these clips! I got one line loose and cannot get the other two.

Here is the best picture I can find. This is a Dorman fuel line connector and looks just like what I have:



I think this is the clip:



I bought a set of 6 plastic tools like these (and larger):




The directions say to open the tool and get it over the line above the connector, then slide the collar down into the connector to loosen the clip. But these clips, as in the bigger picture above, have the tab right in line with the locking ledges, so there is no way to slide the collar into the connector. Not to mention that the three fuel lines are very close together and so I had to break part of the plastic tool handles away to try to make them fit.

So now with this type of tool,




is the idea again to slide the collar into the connector? I think I need something that would just pinch the locking ledges in while I pull of the fuel line. I have tried a regular size needle nose pliers, a small needle nose, a small needle nose with angled tips... and nothing works!

Arghhhhhhhhhh! Help! I'd really prefer to detach these line before dropping the tank. It's tight under there and I'm having all sorts of problems with rusted threads on the bands, so the last thing I need to do is have the tank slip and break the lines.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top