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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Rear crank seal started leaking a couple years ago (around 130K miles )and some leak stop helped. At 150K miles I changed the oil recently (5W-30 synthetic) and a month later a significant leak started in the front and the rear crank seal is leaking again too. Two doses of leak stop have done nothing.

So, as best as I can diagnose, the timing chain cover is leaking, probably where the oil pan meets the cover. Maybe it's the pulley oil seal too, but I'm thinking it's the seal of the cover at the mating surface near the oil filter.

The rear leak is not a huge leak so I can limp that along, but this front leak is serious, 2qts a week.

The vehicle was a gift but the previous owner put $2k into the A/C system and brake system and new alternator and battery not long before giving it to me. It runs good enough, transmission is good. Doesn't burn oil except off the exhaust pipe when the oil leaks onto it. I move sheet rock in it and lumber. It's handy for local use since it barely goes 70mph and it doesn't really belong on a modern highway due to the gutless engine and average 85mph of traffic flow that I can't keep pace with.

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Should I sell the vehicle?
Should I replace just the timing cover gasket and pulley seal? And leave everything else alone?
Should I replace the timing cover gasket, pulley seal, timing chain, chain tensioner, oil orifice, timing chain gears, belt tensioner, belt?

I'm studying what tools I have access to at work since I'm not near my personal garage (I do seasonal work for National Park Service at Arches). This looks like a shop would charge $500+ if they even have time to get to it this summer since Moab, Utah is extremely busy. I can do the job if I can get the right pulley but I'm not sure what approach I should use at this mileage and knowing the rear crank seal is also failing.

Replace just the two seals at the timing chain cover? or go whole hog and replace everything I can touch even if the timing chain wasn't a problem? I could try to prevent future problems but end up using parts that fail faster than the original parts would have failed. I'm thinking that timing chain and chain tensioner is original and due to be replaced.

From what I can see I can do this job from the ground without taking the radiator out but I'm curious what others think.

I cleaned all the oil off but it appears to be weeping oil at the rubber cover seal.
350351
 

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You said the truck was given to you so even if you spend more than $500 , you don't have a truck payment. I know the oil pans are prone to leak also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
After listening to it closely the timing chain is rattling like a sewing machine so the tensioner or chain is worn out. Oil pressure is still around 60.
So, my plan is to drain the oil, lower the oil pan, replace the timing cover, the timing chain and gear set and tensioner and oil orifice and the rubber gasket and the oil seal on the pulley shaft...then bolt the new timing chain cover on and then replace the oil pan gasket, if I need to I can cut the new oil pan gasket in half (now I see new pan gaskets are already cut in half to meet at the half moon rear crank seal. The hard part is cleaning the old gasket off the surface with the pan a few inches below the engine) and RTV the seam...as long as the pan can drop a few inches, and bolt the pan up into the new timing chain cover, which is what I think the order of operations should be in an ideal situation. I'll leave the bearings alone. Then replace the serpentine belt and possibly the belt tensioner/pulley. That looks to be $200+ in parts shipped from rockauto. The main leak looks like the corner of the timing chain cover and the oil pan, but hearing that chain slap around makes me think it needs more than a gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I'm a little puzzled that this is listed as the replacement timing cover but it has a drain hole at the bottom and I see no drain hole on my timing cover. and why would there be a drain hole if it is an oil reservoir for the chain? I don't think this is the right cover.
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but the Holley aluminum cover also has a drain hole. what gives? It doesn't look like the cover on my truck.
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24576075

maybe I should just buy it from GMParts since this looks like the right part.
Tasca parts also has the right one for a 2003 2.2l. About $60 shipped.
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You probably don't need a new cover, just some gaskets/seals. And a new timing set from the sounds of what you're describing.

You're better off using rtv for the whole pan instead of the cork gasket. I recall reading on here that people mentioned you can remove the engine from the mounts and lift it just enough to gain more access. I'll see if I can find it.
 

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I don't know what's wrong with your truck, but mine will and has done 85-90mph from St. Louis to Chicago without a hiccup... and I have 270k miles on it now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good to know. Thanks for the info.
All mechanics in moab are booked until july and charge $95 an hour...estimates of 5 hours...about $600 in labor $200 in parts... so this is my repair now. I Got the manual and it looks straight forward to replace the timing chain and seal.

Anyone use a tensioner elimination timing chain? Sounds fancy but I imagine I will be challenged with the tensioner variety that has slack...let alone a chain that has no slack.

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