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2001 S10 4.3 4x4 ext cab
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119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure if this is the place to post this. I made a "how to" way back when the ZR2usa forums existed. I explain how to repack and reboot the front driveshaft cv joint using a bellow style boot. Good find by Vanr from Zr2usa for the boot kit. It seemed that some of the lifted s10's had the front driveshaft boot rip open because of the increased angle. Since my cv joint had no lateral movement, binding or grease dry up, I could just re-grease and use a new boot. It's been in my truck for a few years now with no problems.

Start by removing the driveshaft and cutting off the remaining boot & clamp on the small end of the joint.
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The old boot and cover must be removed. I placed another housing next to mine to show where the boot cover is crimped over the end of the housing. I made a mark 3/8" from one of the edges on the boot cover where I will be cutting into it.
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Place the driveshaft in a vice and make two cuts with a grinder, cutoff wheel, or sawzall. Not too deep, just enough to get ready for the next step.
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Using a chisel, pry into the area where we just made two cuts into the cover. It should start to lift and separate from the rest of the housing. Take your time and go around the entire housing...it splits easily once the chisel is in.
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Once finished, the housing and cover should be able to be pulled apart. Now just cut the rubber boot and housing in half to remove it from the shaft.
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Look inside and locate the snap ring (red arrow) holding the shaft to the inner race and expand it while pulling on the shaft. Then remove the large lock ring (blue arrow). There are small divots notched out in the housing, use these and a small flat head screwdriver to get behind the lock ring and lift it out. Now remove the guts by turning the housing upside down and slamming it on a hard surface. Don't let the balls roll away.
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Clean the old grease from everything. Use your favorite method of grease removal and place all parts on a clean surface.
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Grease everything inside and out. Especially the paths in the race and housing where the steel balls will travel. Put the inner race inside the cage and place the balls on the outside. They should stick fairly well because of the new heavy grease. Don't forget to have the assembly right side up (small snap ring facing up).

Next, place the assembly in the housing. MOST IMPORTANT: The assembly will only fit one way! Do not force it in as it will get stuck and require more time to remove. Below is how the inner race and housing should be aligned. You can see that the small faces of the inner race (blue arrow) need to line up with the large faces of the housing (red arrow). Doesn't matter how it's indexed....just make sure opposite sized faces line up. You may have to wiggle the assembly around a bit to get it to slide it. Usually one or two balls will start to slide in then the rest will follow. You could even try this without grease to get the feel for it.
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Once the assembly is in, reinstall the large lock ring. Slide the new boot onto the driveshaft and install the clamp on the small end according to the instructions that came with the boot kit. The pics in the instructions are small....so it's difficult to understand how the clamp gets tightened. Again, take your time and think it through. Or you can use your own clamp if you like.

Before attaching the shaft back into the assembly, I want to make a note about what I did on the outside of the housing where the new boot will be seated. If you notice when you removed the old boot cover there was an oring in one of the grooves on the housing. I replaced mine with a large metal ring to act as a "barb" so there is something for the boot clamp to press against and keep the boot from sliding off. Not sure if leaving the oring on will do the same or if this step is even necessary.
Push the shaft into the inner race and make sure the snap ring clicks into the groove of the shaft. slide the large end of the boot over the housing and apply the clamp per instructions.

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Here's the boot kit I used, got it from ebay for about $13 shipped. It came with a pack of CV grease and two clamps with instructions.
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99 Blazer
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Perfect timing! I'm in the middle of doing this right now. I go through about 2-3 driveshafts a year. I broke one a couple days ago when a rock got past the previously ripped boot and shattered the joint. I had to get out of the trails with only 2 wheel drive. I picked up a used shaft from a local scrap yard today and came across this post while on the computer looking for a boot that will work. Thanks for the part number!
 

· Registered
2001 S10 4.3 4x4 ext cab
Joined
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119 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the write up. Nice to see another member of the old forum (ZR2USA) here. Did you save any other write ups from the old forum?
I would have to look in my files. I may have saved a few things (mostly my own write ups). I always assumed the site would be there when I needed to look something else up :( I'm hoping to be a little more active on this site and share some good advice or info.
 
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