I have a 1997 chevy s10 rwd 2.2 vortec ls trim
It has disk brakes in front and drums in back
I have to do an entire brake line install so before i put the truck out of commission for a while i wanted to find out if there any chevy models with disk brakes that will match the rear of my truck. other than an advanced air cooling pipe, maintenance parts, and dents the truck is pretty much the same as it came came from factory
Lots of people have swapped Blazer rear discs on their truck...including me. It's been a long time, but the thread is still there someplace in the wheels/Tires/Brakes section. There are a lot of swap threads.
Your best bet is to use a Blazer rear axle down side is most likely you have 3.73 or 4.10 gears and most Blazers have 3.42s.
Another option is to grab an 8.8 from a 96-99 Explorer or a Mountaineer they are 3.73 or 4.10 most come with lockers. Down side is you either have the axles and rotors redrilled for chevy pattern or use Mustang wheels
Blazer or Camaro brakes bolt on. As stated previously, lots of threads on this. Changing the entire axle is most likely going to cost more money. It was mentioned in another thread also that you can upgrade to a 98+ master cylinder as well.
Waste of time and money on a 2.2L 2wd pickup. The back doesn't weigh much at all and adding stopping power to the rear when 90% of your braking is done by the fronts will just make the ABS work more often. The 97 ABS is not a very good system to start with. If it quits you'll have real issue stopping it in the rain w/o the rear end coming around on the slightest curve. I feel you'd be making the truck less safe. And then there is the issue of finding E-brake cables that work.
Thank you so much. The idea is im putting a 1998 3800 series 2 supercharged in the truck with a 5 speed transmission with a short shift. But i wanted to start doing prep work with brakes. I think my grandfather has a 1999 gmc jimmy which i hope matches up. A 1997 chevy s10 isnt exactly a dream to anyone but its my first project and if im going to prove my grandfather and uncle (mechanics for about 40 years) wrong i wanna know that i can do it right without braking my bank
Yes, a 99 Jimmy rear end will bolt right in. Be sure when you remove it that you get the E-brake cables with it. If the Jimmy is a 2wd that'll be a plus If it's 4wd it'll still work, but unless you like the poked look you'll need to use the 4wd wheels or Gen4 Camaro or late Gen 4 or 5 Corvette wheel. To make those wheels look right on the front you'll need 2-1/2" spacers.
The bump stops on the Jimmy are different than the trucks so you'll want to trim or remove them. Take a look at the yoke on the rear end because there are some variations. You may or may not need to alter your driveshaft. Depending on if you need to or can, swap the yokes. A lot of the Jimmies had 3.73 LSD rear ends. Check the glove box door for the G codes and post them on here.
Hopefully you can find an L67 SII Supercharged 96-05 engine with it's 240 HP. Earlier Blown Buicks weren't any stronger than a stock S10 4.3.
Just one problem with that - the engine is installed sideways. The only cars that I know of with a longitudinal blown Sll 3.8 is the holden Caprice. Might cost a bit getting it shipped from Australia.
Have you considered using a 96 Buick Roadmaster engine? At 260 HP it was called the LT1 and is mounted longitudinally. The stock exhaust clears the frame and mounts would be the generic SBC mounts.
Just a tip from someone whose done many S10 and other swaps. Get the engine in a running before you start worrying about suspension, brakes, paint, interior. If you open too many cans of worms at the same time it's easy to get side tracked or lose interest because it has become an overwhelming and expensive project that seems to have no end in sight.
I always like this quote from Dr. Charles Emerson Winchester on MASH. "Do one thing at a time. Do it very well. Then move on."
Yes, a 99 Jimmy rear end will bolt right in. Be sure when you remove it that you get the E-brake cables with it. If the Jimmy is a 2wd that'll be a plus If it's 4wd it'll still work, but unless you like the poked look you'll need to use the 4wd wheels or Gen4 Camaro or late Gen 4 or 5 Corvette wheel. To make those wheels look right on the front you'll need 2-1/2" spacers.
The bump stops on the Jimmy are different than the trucks so you'll want to trim or remove them. Take a look at the yoke on the rear end because there are some variations. You may or may not need to alter your driveshaft. Depending on if you need to or can, swap the yokes. A lot of the Jimmies had 3.73 LSD rear ends. Check the glove box door for the G codes and post them on here.
Hopefully you can find an L67 SII Supercharged 96-05 engine with it's 240 HP. Earlier Blown Buicks weren't any stronger than a stock S10 4.3.
Just one problem with that - the engine is installed sideways. The only cars that I know of with a longitudinal blown Sll 3.8 is the holden Caprice. Might cost a bit getting it shipped from Australia.
Have you considered using a 96 Buick Roadmaster engine? At 260 HP it was called the LT1 and is mounted longitudinally. The stock exhaust clears the frame and mounts would be the generic SBC mounts.
Just a tip from someone whose done many S10 and other swaps. Get the engine in a running before you start worrying about suspension, brakes, paint, interior. If you open too many cans of worms at the same time it's easy to get side tracked or lose interest because it has become an overwhelming and expensive project that seems to have no end in sight.
I always like this quote from Dr. Charles Emerson Winchester on MASH. "Do one thing at a time. Do it very well. Then move on."
Its a 4wd. can I change the dif to a 2wd rear end. Or can i disassemble the rear end on both the s10 and jimmy and just move over the disk brakes. Or is it better just to keep the rear ends the way they are or just swap it
I don't think any rwd supercharged engines exist in this country, like has been said. The latest rwd application was the Camaro and it never had a supercharger. It did use a T5 that should bolt up to a FWD motor though.
I'm not very familiar with the 3.8 FWD engine, but it appears building the motor mounts could get interesting. I seem to remember them being at the front and on 1 side of the block. Did the starter on those bolt to the engine or the transmission. I know on my FWD LS4 the starter bolts to the transmission bell housing which is a 60° pattern same as the 3.8 used even though both are 90° engines.
I'd find it interesting if GM didn't put the RWD bosses on both FWD and RWD motors but it happened that way with the old 2.0L and the 60 degree V6 so anything is possible. You might be better off starting with a RWD block and going from there if the FWD motors do not have the motor mount bosses. The starter mounts to the FWD (driver's) side either way and mounts to the block.
I would do the blazer brakes front and rear, front i want to say 98 up on blazer is 2 piston and inch bigger rotor and is a sealed bearing hub makes brake jobs easier as well. My gen 1 ls1 turbo 6 spd manual truck stopped so much better with them. I did the blazer rear with the 8.5 ring gear and lasted over 5 years making 600 rwhp
Everything from an 89 to 05 Blazer bolts right in.
I remember writing several threads with the info.
I even have an 85 S10 4x4 with a Bravada rear in it.
All Brvavdas had the G80 option (posi) and many had 3.73 gears.
There is noise out there about needing a different proportioning valve and master cylinder.
I call BS.
I have 4 S10s with Blazer front and rear disc units and didn't change any other components.
Same proportioning valve and master cylinder. They all stop like a go kart (and handle)
I don't have time right now, but I can show you pix of the Barbie and Voodoo truck with the complete swap including Bilstein shox, front and rear sway bars (Blazers had beefy bars) and the lower spring plates - which are also beef masters.
On my 2k2 s10 I did a complete brake swap
On the front:
Belltech Blazer spindles
Drilled and slotted rotors w/ceramic pads
Out back:
99 2wd Blazer 8.5" 3.42 rear w/ disk
Drilled and slotted rotors w/ceramic pads
Royal Purple synthetic gear oil
Larger brakes are a great performance upgrade hands down, my truck stops on a dime and gives 9 cents back!!!!
This is what im gathering i want to recap so im not overwhelmed by too much i have a bit of a small mechanical pea brain.
I can use any of the trucks/ suvs such as the jimmy blazer sonoma and s10 for rear end swap but the blazer and jimmy which have a longer rear end are the ones to go with because the 2wd version have the brakes prepared already. Imma have to do a conversion on the driveshaft just in case so that the yolk in the back matches and that the yolk in front may be different depending on the trans im installing. I should have to change much on tires other than an offset and even though everyone says i shouldn't use a 3800 series 2 supercharged i can with a t51 trans and a bellhousing swap. I need to also make sure of i do the break conversion to redo any lines going to it and make sure to get a relatively good gear oil for the dif so i dont **** everything up. And if i do all this i still can put shocks on the truck and car with still be alive to tell the tale if the chassis isnt fucked
It's up to you^^^
No need to pull the bed unless you are going to clean and paint the frame.
I've done the swap (on a lift with power tools) in just over 2 hours - that is... with all materials and lube ready to go.
The pic (above) by Gen210 is what I did on three trux. Nice detail.
My 85 4x4 is now my winter unit. No pretty paint.
Almost everything you need for improved suspension comes from a 1998 to 2005 Blazer. Here's a list of factory upgrade parts that are direct bolt on to your first and second gen S10: Front - 1. Blazer sway bar and saddles. 1 1/8" compared to the 3/4" S10 unit. You need the attachment saddles -...