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What if your ride will be a daily driver and you use 3x2-1/4 inside the frame rails. I mean, can't you run the tubing inside the rails and keep the outer and under part of the factory frame for strength? Cut it down to meet the tubing, weld it, (difficult if the body is still on ofcourse) and cut it off just behind the cab, where the frame starts to curve up. That part of the frame on the outside will act as a fish plate for the first butt joint of the new rear frame clip. I've seen all of the stock frame cut up and scraped and as a result, when you look at a frame built from tubing it doesn't butt up to the stock frame (firewall cutoff) it is inside, leaving a not flush obvious gap where the two connect like an exhaust. Woudln't the result be a SLIGHT taper in the body to frame? I could be crazy, but this double vision I tell ya!!
I mean't to say 2x3 Not 3x2:asshat:
 

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Ok

Thanks For Posting That


So I Get 3x3 1/4 Inch

Tie That Into The Front Section

Im Doing Underslung I Think Its Cleaner And Easier

Im Assuming That You Put A Crossmemeber Where Ever Factory Crossmembers Are

And Maybe One More Fro The Four Link Lower Bars


Any Help Would Be Apreciated
 

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I realize this thread is old but since it is a sticky I thought I would mention the chart is wrong. You used the wrong equation to begin with (WL^3/3EI). That equation assumes that the tubing is fixed at one end and just cantileavered out at the other end with a 1000 pounds sitting on the end. The equation you should have used was indeed mentioned earlier and it is (WL^3/48EI). This equation assumes that the beam is supported at each end which it is in a truck frame. The load in this case is directly in the center of the beam which gives you the worst case scenario. This changes the numbers in your chart considerably.
 

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I generaly dont rip peoples ideas and thoughts when they make sense, but saying that 3x3" .250 tubing should replace the stock frame rails is IDIOTIC!!!

who cares about deflection if you dont know aceptable tolerances!!!

the stock frame would be off the charts, and your worried about these little baby penis sized numbers?! you've got to be kidding me!!!
 

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mkay...i quick made this up to stop all the rumors about what size box tubing to go with for frame rails.....its kinda self explanitory, ignore the stuff in the middle, just pay attn to the hieght, width, thickness, deflection and weight. The deflection is in inches and the weight is in lbs.

BTW...this is assuming stock dimensions, a 5 foot length, and 1000lbs of force on the beam....

Does any one know how 2.5x2.5/-1/4 would compare to this chart?
(not using for a frame, just wanted to know its properties)
 

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hey guys,my advice on this subject is go out to a steel dist. and look at the material because i was blown away when i saw mine when i ordered mine and picked it up yesterday i got 3x3 3/16 and at home when i was planning my project i grabbed a ruler and was like eh this tubing isnt that big or thick so i was debating on goin 1/4 '' wall but when i ordered it and saw it i was like whoa :eek: thissawesome lol it was way beefer than i anticipated it to be so im not saying not to go aginst the physics in this but to get out there and take a look at what ur using before dropping a ton of money in steel ...im glad i didnt go with 1/4' wall lol
 

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your going to have to lower your transition point in which your frame rails by the lower control arm mounts are to the first bend down to where the frame rails are actually under the cab. then you can cut the top and inner sides of your stock rails and begin to lay in the 3x3. 3x3 is alittle over kill, all you really need is 2x3x1/4 to 3/16make sure you guseet the **** out of the transition point and make sure you have very strong welds attching the 2x3 or 3x3 to your stockers and be sure to gusset and plate your rears where the new rails go back into the stock rails behind the cab. If you need any pointers, you know where i live and i have it done to my truck!
 

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your going to have to lower your transition point in which your frame rails by the lower control arm mounts are to the first bend down to where the frame rails are actually under the cab. then you can cut the top and inner sides of your stock rails and begin to lay in the 3x3. 3x3 is alittle over kill, all you really need is 2x3x1/4 to 3/16make sure you guseet the **** out of the transition point and make sure you have very strong welds attching the 2x3 or 3x3 to your stockers and be sure to gusset and plate your rears where the new rails go back into the stock rails behind the cab. If you need any pointers, you know where i live and i have it done to my truck!
well after seeing the deflection chart thats attached in the beginning of this thread thats why i wanted to use 3x3, but even that has twise as much deflection as the stock frame does. I always heard use 2x3 that is between 3/16 and 1/4 wall to but that chart made me rethink that one a little bit.
 
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