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(Chaos)
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well after all like he sead the man does build helicopters. shit my hats off to you.wow that takes some brains there. um whats the lbs. difrence of a factory frame / a frame made of 3x3 1/4 from the fire wall back .standard cab. im runing a 2.2 afterall.

and would i use the 3x3 1/4 all the way back ? or could i go to a smaller size after my link im runing a sd s10 4link now but want to run the 5link. and iff i do i dont want shit ever bending.
 

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ConnecticutX said:
IMO a 3/16" thick simple beam is a good estimation considering that the stock frame is much more complex then a simple 1/8" rail. Things like the overlaps, the gussets and geometry changes all make the frame stronger.
Isn't a stock frame tempered? The densities and strengths are going to be different between stock and new tube steel... right?
 

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I know several people with bodydropped trucks that used 2x3x.25 tall and never had any problems... and it's been fine for years. I think if you use enough gussets and crossmembers it's just as strong or stronger than the stock frame. And yes the stock frame is meant to crush or "flex" during major impacts. Think of it this way, if you get into a wreck THAT bad, your truck is ****ed anyway. Most trucks don't weigh shit in the back anyway, and I don't know too many minitruckers carrying loads in their bed, so I think 2x3 is a safe bet, as long as it is done right and gusseted where need be. 3x3x.25 is overkill and way too expensive for the project, plus most of these guys want to lay rocker. Not to mention the weight difference, but how much more pressure would it take to lift the truck with 3x3 than 2x3?? Don't harass me because I'm just posting what I know, and what I've seen work WITHOUT any problems. I understand everything from the engineering point of perspective, but like was said, 'real-world' applications are different sometimes. Something calculated on paper vs. something that is actually built is not always the same. I like the chart though, it's very interesting, but I just don't think there is enough weight to induce that type of stress on the frame(assuming it is built correctly).
 

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im runnin 2x3 3/16" square tube on my f-150 thats stock floored and i havent had any problems. standard cab longbed.
 

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huge problem i think, just brought my cab back from work, i got rid of the pinchweld and built 1/8th rockers, and got rid of all cab mounts, my frame at home i put 2x3 rails for the drop. so my frame is 2 inches high and my mounts are all gone on the cab and it still dont lay flush with the frame. i heard on here 2 inch rails would easily work. kinda bumed out. havnt looked into to much yet, been drinkin too so it might just be me being the error, but i think i have to redo the cab floor again. ****. hopefully i figure something out or if someone has good knowledge on this lend some info to me please.
 

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before i read this ad i had already used 2x4 .25 w/ the 4 x2 so i figured that wouldnt be strong enough so i used 2x2 .25 beside that i was just wanting some comformation if this would be strong enough?
 

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What if your ride will be a daily driver and you use 3x2-1/4 inside the frame rails. I mean, can't you run the tubing inside the rails and keep the outer and under part of the factory frame for strength? Cut it down to meet the tubing, weld it, (difficult if the body is still on ofcourse) and cut it off just behind the cab, where the frame starts to curve up. That part of the frame on the outside will act as a fish plate for the first butt joint of the new rear frame clip. I've seen all of the stock frame cut up and scraped and as a result, when you look at a frame built from tubing it doesn't butt up to the stock frame (firewall cutoff) it is inside, leaving a not flush obvious gap where the two connect like an exhaust. Woudln't the result be a SLIGHT taper in the body to frame? I could be crazy, but this double vision I tell ya!!
 
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