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Zr2USA = B_Rich
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2,657 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So....

This is my current situation/problem (this will be kind of a long read, I appreciate the time for those of you that do take the time to read it).

My stock alt fried on me about 6 months ago. I had another stock alternator "built up" with a 160 amp stator installed in it from a shop downtown (this is all in a CS130D (stock) case - remember this). When COLD, my current "built up" alt will put out 14.9v at idle, and it will maintain that with my system cranked. When WARM, my alt will drop down to 12.8v at idle, and at about 800 RPM, it will jump up to ~14.1v. Yes, my lights dim at night, and not only is it bad for my Silverstars, it's very annoying. This is all in the CS130D (stock) case.

Now for my question:

For those of you with "REAL" (DB Electrical, Stinger, Mr. Green, etc.) H.O. Alternators (200+ amp) in the CS130D case (looks just like the stock one).....

Do you have the same problem I do with your 200amp DB Electrical (just an example) alternators? Do you maintain 14.4v at idle? Do you know how many amps your H.O. alternator puts out at idle? And and what RPM does it come to full tilt?

*I realize that all alternators put out more amps at ~800 RPM as opposed to idle speed (~600RPM)*

Thanks for reading my story :p I appreciate it.
 

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Computer Geek
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6,326 Posts
i have a excessive amperage 200 amp alt and my alt i think is going out again, its "pulsing" the lights at night but my voltage even at idle when engine is cold is right about 13.9 14. at 2,000rpm where the alt is normally set at for comps i can get around 16 sometimes 17, its the way the alt is designed tho.
 

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615 Posts
i have a 200 amp alt on mine. but its one of the ones where u have to have ur engine rpm higher than idle for it to put out the 200 amp. i put a smaller pulley on it and it still didnt help. u can get the ones where they will put out at idle. they are alot more expensive thou. the one i have on mine is really a pain in the butt for me. i'm running 6 jlw6 12's and my 1000/1 is very sensitive on voltage. so its constantly shutting off on me if i have my idle down. frustrating
 

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Computer Geek
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6,326 Posts
yea i know. i think when i get my alt first back from being rebuilt it ran at 14.4 all the time at idle cold and hot. then after about 1 month it dropped down to 12.5-12.9 at idle and 14.4 .5 at driving speed
 

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Computer Geek
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6,326 Posts
i agree i agree i hate it lol. horrible to get in touch with and they had my alt for 3 weeks. by far i wasn't recomending them i was just stating who i had. if i need to have this one rebuilt im gonna get either a local high output alt from oreilly with a lifetime warranty or a iraggi
 

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615 Posts
hey man check out the thread dual alt on 03 blazer. thats what i'm in process of doing to mine. i have my alt mounted i just done have it belted or wired up yet. but in my opinion that should help me out some with my problem. i'm putting the stocker back on so i will have 13.7 at idle and when i need some more just rev the engine a little.

So....

This is my current situation/problem (this will be kind of a long read, I appreciate the time for those of you that do take the time to read it).

My stock alt fried on me about 6 months ago. I had another stock alternator "built up" with a 160 amp stator installed in it from a shop downtown (this is all in a CS130D (stock) case - remember this). When COLD, my current "built up" alt will put out 14.9v at idle, and it will maintain that with my system cranked. When WARM, my alt will drop down to 12.8v at idle, and at about 800 RPM, it will jump up to ~14.1v. Yes, my lights dim at night, and not only is it bad for my Silverstars, it's very annoying. This is all in the CS130D (stock) case.

Now for my question:

For those of you with "REAL" (DB Electrical, Stinger, Mr. Green, etc.) H.O. Alternators (200+ amp) in the CS130D case (looks just like the stock one).....

Do you have the same problem I do with your 200amp DB Electrical (just an example) alternators? Do you maintain 14.4v at idle? Do you know how many amps your H.O. alternator puts out at idle? And and what RPM does it come to full tilt?

*I realize that all alternators put out more amps at ~800 RPM as opposed to idle speed (~600RPM)*

Thanks for reading my story :p I appreciate it.
 

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My mirror hates my sub
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9,463 Posts
i agree i agree i hate it lol. horrible to get in touch with and they had my alt for 3 weeks. by far i wasn't recomending them i was just stating who i had. if i need to have this one rebuilt im gonna get either a local high output alt from oreilly with a lifetime warranty or a iraggi

my buddy went through a 7+ month ordeal with EA... 1st he had to wait 3-4 weeks jhust to get it and when it showed up it was dead.. sent it back.. waiting 2 weeks asked for a refund.. didnt get one.. waited even longer to only get a partial refund.. after about 3 months he finally got 13.9 V... went through a few more months of bs trying to get ahold of him, trying to get a refund, and finally wound up selling it to someone and buying a different brand

between the BS he had to go through and what i have seen myself i wouldnt recommend this brand to anyone.. pure garbage.. they're just "shiny accessories" to catch your eye
 

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Computer Geek
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6,326 Posts
yea and there "ext voltage regulator" is garbage too pain in the ass to install and is garbage. i think im going to call them in a few weeks and see what they have to say cause i spent about 100 bucks to get it rebuilt to just need it again a few months later
 

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Breakin shit
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651 Posts
switch to a CS-144 from a 98+ tahoe with 140 amp output and have that modified, mine is at 250 amps cold, hangs around 180-190 warm, i have an undersize crank shaft pulley. to do it with a stock pulley set use a belt for a CS-144 equipped 350ci tahoe/suburban
 

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I bought a mechman alt for my truck which was damaged in shipping ;( So I am stuck with a $500 paper weight till USPS/Canada Post do something. They have been in business for some time and seem to really know their stuff. The alt is a 144 case and they do much more custom work to them than other companies out there. Most of their alts are rated at 150A at idle and about 250 max. The alt definitely looks much beefier than the db electrical ones I have for my other truck. If my alt wasn't damaged I would have been able to give you a better review on it. Based on other peoples experience and the product I would still recommend them.
 

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Zr2USA = B_Rich
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2,657 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
switch to a CS-144 from a 98+ tahoe with 140 amp output and have that modified, mine is at 250 amps cold, hangs around 180-190 warm, i have an undersize crank shaft pulley. to do it with a stock pulley set use a belt for a CS-144 equipped 350ci tahoe/suburban
I've heard about people doing this, except the model number that I've found is the AD244..... I've read it's just a newer version of the alternator.

I almost picked one up at the local junkyard on the way home from school, but I figure I'd save the money until I knew that's exactly what I wanted - which, by now, I think it is what I want.

So, now time to bring up another question:

Will I have the same problem with a "built up" (200amp stator installed) AD244 alt as I did with my "built up" CS130D alt? (Having sh!tty output at idle, but then getting my required voltage/amperage at ~800 RPM) I just want 14.4v and ~110 amps at idle, 200 amps peak.

Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it.
 

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i have a 200 amp alt on mine. but its one of the ones where u have to have ur engine rpm higher than idle for it to put out the 200 amp. i put a smaller pulley on it and it still didnt help. u can get the ones where they will put out at idle. they are alot more expensive thou. the one i have on mine is really a pain in the butt for me. i'm running 6 jlw6 12's and my 1000/1 is very sensitive on voltage. so its constantly shutting off on me if i have my idle down. frustrating
ok you are completely wrong on the jl 1000/1 being sensitive to voltage they can run fully at 10.5 volts up to 16 volts if you want to blow somthing but they will never switch off like you say yours does maybe your amps just ****ed up i have never heard of jl amps doing that...
 

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77 Posts
"Most of your low cost alternators only change out the Stator to increase output. This increases the high RPM output, but decreases the low RPM output. In order to bring the low RPM output, a custom rotor needs to be used, and then a custom regulator has to be designed to handle the additional amp draw of the rotor. (which isn't cheap)

Low RPM output is what the extra money gets you." This is true and the reason why you have such low output at idle. If you need a HO alternator, purchase one from scratch, not a simply rebuilt alternator.
 
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