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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi LS folks! I've run into a wall with my swap and I could use some advice. I'm swapping an LM7 5.3 and 4L60e into an 84 2wd S10. I'm using the holley kit with their engine mounts, trans mount/ crossmember and the whitebox oil pan. The whole setup was sold as a way of getting this to fit without having to cut the crossmember.

I've had this thing in and out about four times today and I'm off by inches - super frustrated. The oil pan hits the crossmember and when I raise the engine and trans to clear the k member I'm hitting the trans tunnel. I've got a jack to hold up the tail housing to level the thing out - and I'll eventually get stuck about an two and a half inches from the oil pan clearing the crossmember.

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After looking through posts on this forum I folded back the pinch weld on the top of the trans tunnel / fire wall. I'm trying to avoid cutting the crossmember to get this thing in - since I've no way to weld it back up. My plan now is to just hammer the ever living piss out of the trans tunnel tomorrow - but the threads I looked at seemed to think that was unnecessary as long as I hammered up that little lip. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does the engine actually bolt up? Mounts on backwards/wrong side?
Yeah that's the frustrating thing. I've had the motor in by itself when we had to move the truck from my old place to the new. It came out again to mount up the transmission. I know the motor will go in by itself and that the mounts are oriented the right direction.
 

· Randy
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Hi LS folks! I've run into a wall with my swap and I could use some advice. I'm swapping an LM7 5.3 and 4L60e into an 84 2wd S10. I'm using the holley kit with their engine mounts, trans mount/ crossmember and the whitebox oil pan. The whole setup was sold as a way of getting this to fit without having to cut the crossmember.

I've had this thing in and out about four times today and I'm off by inches - super frustrated. The oil pan hits the crossmember and when I raise the engine and trans to clear the k member I'm hitting the trans tunnel. I've got a jack to hold up the tail housing to level the thing out - and I'll eventually get stuck about an two and a half inches from the oil pan clearing the crossmember.

View attachment 369707
After looking through posts on this forum I folded back the pinch weld on the top of the trans tunnel / fire wall. I'm trying to avoid cutting the crossmember to get this thing in - since I've no way to weld it back up. My plan now is to just hammer the ever living piss out of the trans tunnel tomorrow - but the threads I looked at seemed to think that was unnecessary as long as I hammered up that little lip. Thoughts?
What is the actual part # on the transmission cross-member?
What transmission are you using?
I only had to bend the 1" wide punch weld up against the tunnel toward the rear of the vehicle. I did not do the sides and wish I had...
I used the Holley parts too, everything fit. cross-member was tight at the mount, but fit without modification.
Rhotpusuit had the wrong one in the beginning of his swap...
 

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You might need to remove the front cab mounting bolts and loosen the rears to lift the front of the cab a bit. You should be able to let it back down once the trans is in. The Holley 302-1 pan is a tight fit.
Like Randy says check the part number on the trans crossmember. They sell quite a few different ones and could have sent the wrong one.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What is the actual part # on the transmission cross-member?
What transmission are you using?
I only had to bend the 1" wide punch weld up against the tunnel toward the rear of the vehicle. I did not do the sides and wish I had...
I used the Holley parts too, everything fit. cross-member was tight at the mount, but fit without modification.
Rhotpusuit had the wrong one in the beginning of his swap...
Thanks, @Tranzman it's part number # 71222019HKR
The trans cross member fit the frame really well. Had to drill two holes on the passenger side frame rail per the instructions and everything bolts up well. The transmission is a 4l60e from an ls based pickup - 2CFD trans code. I've done the 1" pinch weld.

The top of the bellhousing hits the trans tunnel as the lowest part of the white box oil pan hits the k member. I think I'd be able to get the trans in separately- but without a lift and a transmission jack it'll be a real PITA.

Was your swap a second gen? Did you do the motor and trans mounted together?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You might need to remove the front cab mounting bolts and loosen the rears to lift the front of the cab a bit. You should be able to let it back down once the trans is in. The Holley 302-1 pan is a tight fit.
Like Randy says check the part number on the trans crossmember. They sell quite a few different ones and could have sent the wrong one.
@oldeerslayer thanks! Lifting the cab seems like it'd make up the difference I'm looking for. I'd have to pull the inner and outer fenders to lift the cab, right?
 

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What is the actual part # on the transmission cross-member?
What transmission are you using?
I only had to bend the 1" wide punch weld up against the tunnel toward the rear of the vehicle. I did not do the sides and wish I had...
I used the Holley parts too, everything fit. cross-member was tight at the mount, but fit without modification.
Rhotpusuit had the wrong one in the beginning of his swap...
The crossmember was wrong because they didn't make one for a swap that used the S10 4L60E. Holley didn't know there was a difference, nor listed the crossmember with a disclaimer. Harley had a chunk of aluminum that he carved out on a mill for a new mount. There is a really nice mount available that is adjustable now.
 

· Randy
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Thanks, @Tranzman it's part number # 71222019HKR
The trans cross member fit the frame really well. Had to drill two holes on the passenger side frame rail per the instructions and everything bolts up well. The transmission is a 4l60e from an ls based pickup - 2CFD trans code. I've done the 1" pinch weld.

The top of the bellhousing hits the trans tunnel as the lowest part of the white box oil pan hits the k member. I think I'd be able to get the trans in separately- but without a lift and a transmission jack it'll be a real PITA.

Was your swap a second gen? Did you do the motor and trans mounted together?
Yes I was doing the 2nd gen swap and you are using the correct parts.
I installed the transmission separately. I did not want to open that can of worms with rusted cab mounts & brackets. I also wanted to know how the trans comes out if needed. Starter & other items may need to come out later too. Now I know how to go about all that. If you do go that route, just don't forget the dipstick tube. I promise you won't get it in there after the fact. I already tried... and had to take the transmission out to install it.
 
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Ron, sorry you are running into these issues, but you just saved me some time and money on buying the Holley pan.

The H3 pan and 4L80E hits the floor and frame on my Blazer as well. I was really hoping the shorter Holley pan would let me install the engine and transmission in one shot.

As the others have said, raise that cab a bit and it should go right in.
 

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@oldeerslayer thanks! Lifting the cab seems like it'd make up the difference I'm looking for. I'd have to pull the inner and outer fenders to lift the cab, right?
No, leave them attached to the cab. In the pics I see you have the rad support already out. If you remove the fenders you'll have to realign everything from scratch. Just unbolt the master from the booster and let the lines support it. Probably will need to unhook the e-brake cable at the connector under the door. I just cut the little link and bought a new one for a couple bucks. RA gets $2.05 for one.
Actually the best way is to totally remove the cab so you can hook up the mounts, driveline, fuel lines and exhaust with the cab off. Makes it all easier. Then drop it back on. Good chance to clean and paint everything if you're into that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
...theres also zero wrong with cutting the crossmember to make removal and installation much easier
I'm not opposed in principle to cutting the crossmember. It would also give me some extra clearance on the oil pan which will bounce around a little as I drive the truck. I just don't have a way to weld it closed after I chop it. (y)
 

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I'm not opposed in principle to cutting the crossmember. It would also give me some extra clearance on the oil pan which will bounce around a little as I drive the truck. I just don't have a way to weld it closed after I chop it. (y)
I have no frame of reference, but I wouldn't think there would be a difference in the crossmembers between 1st and 2nd generation. I have plenty of room on mine with all Holly components.
Have you tried jacking up the front end so that there is more room between the transmission tail and the ground? That would allow a steeper angle of attack.
 

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I just don't have a way to weld it closed after I chop it.
have you see the size of the crossmember? if you cut that inch long lip off the back and just left it open, its still stronger than the rest of the frame on the truck. ... and youd be able to get your truck running, and find a friend with a welder at a later date if it worried you that it wasn't welded back up.
on my blazer i cut the entre cross memver out, and have a piece of 2x2 square as a cross member only.
 

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have you see the size of the crossmember? if you cut that inch long lip off the back and just left it open, its still stronger than the rest of the frame on the truck. ... and youd be able to get your truck running, and find a friend with a welder at a later date if it worried you that it wasn't welded back up.
on my blazer i cut the entre cross memver out, and have a piece of 2x2 square as a cross member only.
I thought he was talking about the front crossmember.
 

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I thought he was talking about the front crossmember.
there is only one front crossmember on a 2wd.. that is where the oil pan gets close to.


I'm not opposed in principle to cutting the crossmember.
the thread posted above has a picture of a cut xmember. he cut a big portion out of it. You dont need to cut the much.
 

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there is only one front crossmember on a 2wd.. that is where the oil pan gets close to.




the thread posted above has a picture of a cut xmember. he cut a big portion out of it. You dont need to cut the much.
Both crossmembers were getting tossed around and I just wanted to clarify since there transmission was mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Have you tried jacking up the front end so that there is more room between the transmission tail and the ground? That would allow a steeper angle of attack.
We did try to jack it up but my little 1.5 ton low profile jack can only raise the truck so high. Maybe I should see about borrowing a bigger jack.

have you see the size of the crossmember? if you cut that inch long lip off the back and just left it open, its still stronger than the rest of the frame on the truck.
I'm not so worried about strength as I am about water and mud n such getting in there and rotting it away. And I know I'm lazy and once I have the truck running I'll never be inclined to pull it all apart again to get that welded up.

I did go into the garage this morning and banged on the trans tunnel a bit with the BFH. Also took a look at the cab mounts to figure out a game plan with that. They look pretty rusty in there. I'm nervous they might just snap if I attempt to loosen them.

And to clarify- im only having issues with the engine crossmember. The trans crossmember is the g force/ hooker blackheart peice and all indications are that that thing is going to work a charm if I can ever get the tail housing back far enough to bolt em in.

Thanks for all the suggestions!
 
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