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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's my first try building a truck to lay out looking for constructive criticism. I'm trying to overdue everything. I'm pretty much building it with knowledge from forums pictures and videos for I do not have friends that have done this task...putting in a 8 inch notch and bag on bar 4 link setup.. cut and plated lcas with 1/4 in plate. cut frame welded half a pipe for steering arm clearance..I'm not sure how to do the uppers yet seems the ball joint is keeping it from coming up all the way. Waiting on rear end parts so trying to finish the front..any help or advise would be greatly appreciated
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· Deadlines are Overrated
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Uppers get pie cut. You basically make a vertical slice just behind the ball joint front and back. Then when you lay out the truck, when the ball joint maxes out in that direction it pulls the angle with it. Then you just weld the seam back up and plate it for strength.
You also didn’t need to cut as much of the lower as you did. You cut all the strength away and didn’t weld enough of it back. I know it’s 1/4” plate, But There’s a lot of weight on both vertical welds and across near the bushings. And they will crack and fail over time. Either figure out a way to add more strength, or start over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looking at it again…..If you weld a plate on the top, similar to the bottom…..you should be good. But you’ll have to drill holes in the bottom in order to bolt in the bottom of the bag.
I was thinking of welding another plate on top or welding angle around the inside for strength.. I did weld more onto them but didn't take a picture before I put them on the truck to find where my steering rods were lining up...
 

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just plate the top of the lca, and itll be boxed, and way stronger than a sherman tank.
Looks like you've got a good start for never doing it before. the weird 2x3 over the driveshaft is a bit much, no need for 90 degree angles, use some 45s or anything other than 90s and itll look more professional. Also, ask you questions...you stated above "I do not have friends that have done this task.. " well youve got at least a dozen in here, and i personally have bagged more GMs than i can count over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
just plate the top of the lca, and itll be boxed, and way stronger than a sherman tank.
Looks like you've got a good start for never doing it before. the weird 2x3 over the driveshaft is a bit much, no need for 90 degree angles, use some 45s or anything other than 90s and itll look more professional. Also, ask you questions...you stated above "I do not have friends that have done this task.. " well youve got at least a dozen in here, and i personally have bagged more GMs than i can count over the years.
I put 90s on the 2 x 3 for my link bars. I made enough room for both my uppers.. its getting covered by the bed so I don't think I'll have to worry about looks on that.. also for trimming the front for the bag how much do u trim for the pocket? Just the lip off the backside and enough if the front for the lower to clear? I don't have drop spindles with a 27" tire pie cut the uppers and I'm still 3/4 inch from laying out.ive read the super travel ball joints will help since I plan on replacing them.. Any help would be appreciated
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I don't have drop spindles with a 27" tire .....I'm still 3/4 inch from laying out....... Any help would be appreciated
simple, get spindles. youre going to have so much 'toe in' without them you wont be able to drive. you need spindles. ive never modified stock upper arms ever, and i can lay on a 24 inch wheel
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
simple, get spindles. youre going to have so much 'toe in' without them you wont be able to drive. you need spindles. ive never modified stock upper arms ever, and i can lay on a 24 inch wheel
Too late now lol already cut and welded them back together. I was reading with the ball joints you wouldn't have to cut the uppers...so is it the spindles keeping me from laying out? 🤔 and I can't seem to find pictures of how much to cut from the front pocket
 

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Stick a bag in there and it’ll help u visualize. Most 7” bags u cut the seam and reweld, a 6” bag u can get away with cutting to the seam usually. There’s actually recent pictures here in another thread I swear I saw em like a month ago

make sure the lower arms aren’t hitting the frame where they bolt on. Might have to clearance the mounts some.

spindles would solve the issue as stated and the lsoh no toe kit would help too when it comes to toe issues.
 

· Deadlines are Overrated
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You’re going to want to add a bar here. It’s not necessary, but the pushing and pulling of the link bars will put stress where you straight welded it to the rails. That added bar will pick up the force applied to your xmember. Triangles are the strongest shape and your friend. Again, it’s not necessary, just nice to have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
just plate the top of the lca, and itll be boxed, and way stronger than a sherman tank.
Looks like you've got a good start for never doing it before. the weird 2x3 over the driveshaft is a bit much, no need for 90 degree angles, use some 45s or anything other than 90s and itll look more professional. Also, ask you questions...you stated above "I do not have friends that have done this task.. " well youve got at least a dozen in here, and i personally have bagged more GMs than i can count over the years.
Plated the top and made 2 tanks lol
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