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465 Posts
Finally added my 17s.. more mods to come
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Joined
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465 Posts
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41 Posts
Looks good man,where did you get your hood and how much if ya don`t mind me asking
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465 Posts
hey,
I actually bought this hood from a local guy who got in a wreck. Myself and EC's VP repaired the damaged portions and all's new.. I paid $100 for it too.
Later
mike
EC Founder
I actually bought this hood from a local guy who got in a wreck. Myself and EC's VP repaired the damaged portions and all's new.. I paid $100 for it too.
Later
mike
EC Founder
Joined
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465 Posts
LOL believe it or not, the mirrors are modified Firebird factory mirrors. These are only temporary till I come across either some SS or Factory Power mirrors. I liked these at first but they are just getting old to me. hehe
Stay Low
Mike
EC founder
Stay Low
Mike
EC founder
Joined
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53 Posts
Hey man, whats been up? This is kevin from Morristown, BTW. Ive been hacking away at my ride this week too. I stopped at Godfather in ATL ont he way back from NOPI and got my suspension. Also got some billet pedals, shift knob, antenna, momo steering wheel and adaptor, and some superwhite/purple headlights. THe lowering process (the "right way" this time) sucked ass. I used DJM spindles 2" coils, 2" leafs and a 3" block, and it has not gone easily. Im still workng on it actually. But its gonna be nice when its done. Who shaved your handles btw? I could do the install myself, but I dont have access to a welder. Gimme a yell!
Joined
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465 Posts
hey,
sounds like you spent a fortune in HOTlanta lol. Why isn't the lowering going well? It's not all that hard hehe. I had help from a friend/indy chapter member with the handles. It didnt' take but about 2 hours worth of work from start to finish. You can use your existing bars inside the door to keep your keyhole. That's the cheaper route. U just need to route a bar that goes from the lock cyl. to the release and you're set.
BTW there's a local show next month (21st) here in maryville. it's to benefit the kids. maybe we'll see ya there..
later
Mike
sounds like you spent a fortune in HOTlanta lol. Why isn't the lowering going well? It's not all that hard hehe. I had help from a friend/indy chapter member with the handles. It didnt' take but about 2 hours worth of work from start to finish. You can use your existing bars inside the door to keep your keyhole. That's the cheaper route. U just need to route a bar that goes from the lock cyl. to the release and you're set.
BTW there's a local show next month (21st) here in maryville. it's to benefit the kids. maybe we'll see ya there..
later
Mike
Joined
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53 Posts
the lowering...
Yeah I spent a ****load, and Im so pissed that its not going well. I stopped in personally at godfathers, to assure that Id get teh right stuff I wanted plus I could save on shipping since I was in town anyway. It took them like 2 hours to get my stuff out of their warehouse, but the guy gave me a killer deal. I told him I wanted the 5/6 drop...2" spindles, 3" coils, 3" leafs, and my existing 3" block. While studying the invoice and waiting for my stuff, I noticed he gave me 2" coils, not 3", so I had him correct it. Finally got my stuff and left.
So Im installing this stuff. Had to cut the **** bolt for the driver leaf in front by the gastank, adn couldnt find a decent replacement. Let the back down, and the ***** isnt any lower than it was with just 3"blocks before. Dammit, maybe the front is holding it up. I also noted that the u-joint was making noise and vibration, because the pinion angle was off.
SO I do the spindles, and proceed to bust each and every dust cap on the joints, and break my **** pickel fork too. Put int he coils, which I noted were only 1" shorter than the stock ones. Let it down, and the back stayed where it was, and the front was 1.5 inches higher than the back. Dammit!! BTW, I did this much in 4 hours, it wasnt too hard but not fun either. Took it for a test drive, front rode like a cadillac, the back rode like asss, bouncing and ****.
SO today I decide to make it right. I thought the back might be hitting the bumpstops, and sure enough it was riding solid on them. So I take them out, and go for another test. Now the axle is hitting hella hard on the frame mount. Dammit. Dropped it another inch, closer to home though. Now tomorrow I have to try and cut out that bumpstop mount from the frame, more fun!!
I thought then, that I would fix the front the ******* way. I pull out those coils(they must have gave me 1 or 2" coils instead of 3) and decide to cut them, 1.5 coil each. Reinstall them and it drops the front...WAAAAY down. With my 17x8s, 225/45s, the fender layed on the tire. DAMMIT!! IF I had about 1/2" lift on the front it would be perfect. SO off I go to autozone to buy some rubber spring helpers. 2 packs later it is no better and rubs at the slightest dip in the road, while the back end sounds like a die press.
Tomorrow Im gonna just cut my factory springs and put them back in, hopefully finding the right height in the process. Ive also gotta try and cut out those rear frame mounts. So far I have about $600 in this lowering job, the "right way" and it still rides like ass.
If I shave my doors it will be without a keyhole, shaved smooth, but Im not decided on whether or not to do it, though I really want to.
Yeah I spent a ****load, and Im so pissed that its not going well. I stopped in personally at godfathers, to assure that Id get teh right stuff I wanted plus I could save on shipping since I was in town anyway. It took them like 2 hours to get my stuff out of their warehouse, but the guy gave me a killer deal. I told him I wanted the 5/6 drop...2" spindles, 3" coils, 3" leafs, and my existing 3" block. While studying the invoice and waiting for my stuff, I noticed he gave me 2" coils, not 3", so I had him correct it. Finally got my stuff and left.
So Im installing this stuff. Had to cut the **** bolt for the driver leaf in front by the gastank, adn couldnt find a decent replacement. Let the back down, and the ***** isnt any lower than it was with just 3"blocks before. Dammit, maybe the front is holding it up. I also noted that the u-joint was making noise and vibration, because the pinion angle was off.
SO I do the spindles, and proceed to bust each and every dust cap on the joints, and break my **** pickel fork too. Put int he coils, which I noted were only 1" shorter than the stock ones. Let it down, and the back stayed where it was, and the front was 1.5 inches higher than the back. Dammit!! BTW, I did this much in 4 hours, it wasnt too hard but not fun either. Took it for a test drive, front rode like a cadillac, the back rode like asss, bouncing and ****.
SO today I decide to make it right. I thought the back might be hitting the bumpstops, and sure enough it was riding solid on them. So I take them out, and go for another test. Now the axle is hitting hella hard on the frame mount. Dammit. Dropped it another inch, closer to home though. Now tomorrow I have to try and cut out that bumpstop mount from the frame, more fun!!
I thought then, that I would fix the front the ******* way. I pull out those coils(they must have gave me 1 or 2" coils instead of 3) and decide to cut them, 1.5 coil each. Reinstall them and it drops the front...WAAAAY down. With my 17x8s, 225/45s, the fender layed on the tire. DAMMIT!! IF I had about 1/2" lift on the front it would be perfect. SO off I go to autozone to buy some rubber spring helpers. 2 packs later it is no better and rubs at the slightest dip in the road, while the back end sounds like a die press.
Tomorrow Im gonna just cut my factory springs and put them back in, hopefully finding the right height in the process. Ive also gotta try and cut out those rear frame mounts. So far I have about $600 in this lowering job, the "right way" and it still rides like ass.
If I shave my doors it will be without a keyhole, shaved smooth, but Im not decided on whether or not to do it, though I really want to.
Joined
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7,683 Posts
Rims look good. I'm buying the ones off of Keith's Blazer.
http://www.angelfire.com/tn/esstenconcepts/images/ch5keith1.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/tn/esstenconcepts/images/ch5keith1.jpg
Joined
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465 Posts
hey kevin
Hey,
man that all sounds pretty Sh#t* to me bro. here's what I've found out over the years. When you order springs from a company, apparently they think automatically you have a 4.3 instead of a 2.8 or 4cyl. Therefore, the drop rating is for a heavier frontend which means you won't get the drop you expected in the first place. You were right about the pinion angle too. I have the same problem here. Here's my scenario. I have 2in spindles, 2in. coils, 3in pinion angled blocks, and removed all but the main and overload leafs. Up front I cut a coil out which made it a total of 6inches of drop, leaving an inch of gap in the fenderwell. I also have nitro drop shocks too.. which makes for a killer ride. Out back I opted to get some AirShocks...terrible call. Not only do they suck in cornering, but they aren't keeping my axle from hitting the frame. I torched my bumstop bracket off also. Which gave me an extra 3inches of available travel. BUT it still hits frame sometimes. and the ride is better too. Oh yeah I'm running 17in wheels. with 205/40 up front and 225/40 out back. I plan to drop the rear some more real soon also. I heard that by taking the overload leaf and flipping it upside down, but remaining on the bottom-it will force the main leaf upward. Therefore I'll be able to rely on the airshocks more, and may get an onboard compressor deal for it too.
lata
Mike
EC Founder
Hey,
man that all sounds pretty Sh#t* to me bro. here's what I've found out over the years. When you order springs from a company, apparently they think automatically you have a 4.3 instead of a 2.8 or 4cyl. Therefore, the drop rating is for a heavier frontend which means you won't get the drop you expected in the first place. You were right about the pinion angle too. I have the same problem here. Here's my scenario. I have 2in spindles, 2in. coils, 3in pinion angled blocks, and removed all but the main and overload leafs. Up front I cut a coil out which made it a total of 6inches of drop, leaving an inch of gap in the fenderwell. I also have nitro drop shocks too.. which makes for a killer ride. Out back I opted to get some AirShocks...terrible call. Not only do they suck in cornering, but they aren't keeping my axle from hitting the frame. I torched my bumstop bracket off also. Which gave me an extra 3inches of available travel. BUT it still hits frame sometimes. and the ride is better too. Oh yeah I'm running 17in wheels. with 205/40 up front and 225/40 out back. I plan to drop the rear some more real soon also. I heard that by taking the overload leaf and flipping it upside down, but remaining on the bottom-it will force the main leaf upward. Therefore I'll be able to rely on the airshocks more, and may get an onboard compressor deal for it too.
lata
Mike
EC Founder
Joined
·
53 Posts
I got it straight now...
IT looks and rides good. I am a even 25" off the ground all around(measured at fender well). I had to use the stock coils(after I paid $70+ for lowered ones) with one coil cut off. I have a bit under 1" fender clearance up front, and every once in a while the driver 17" rubs a bit. I also had to cut out the bumpstop mount fromt he frame, which was a ***** but worth it. Back doesnt bottom out at all now.
Last night I installed my momo wheel, billet pedals, shift knob, and antenna.
Ill post some pics in 1st gen forum later on.
IT looks and rides good. I am a even 25" off the ground all around(measured at fender well). I had to use the stock coils(after I paid $70+ for lowered ones) with one coil cut off. I have a bit under 1" fender clearance up front, and every once in a while the driver 17" rubs a bit. I also had to cut out the bumpstop mount fromt he frame, which was a ***** but worth it. Back doesnt bottom out at all now.
Last night I installed my momo wheel, billet pedals, shift knob, and antenna.
Ill post some pics in 1st gen forum later on.
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