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Discussion Starter #1
Well,
I replaced my air filter, my fuel filter, my plugs, my plug wires adjusted my carb slightly.
Took it in for the test.......
That's right it failed.
It failed the CO2 test at idle (I think that's right).
I think there may be something with my catalitic converter though, as i was looking underneath. there is a bit of a rattle. I think it may be clogged or something, cuz my muffler looks like it almost exploded. It is all bubbled out and bent as if pressure blew it out inside.
I'm not sure what the heck happened, but i'm hoping replacing it will fix it.
The frustrating thing is that i was going to swap out my 2.8L for a 305 in the spring, so now i'd have to pay to put on 2 exhaust systems. And because my truck turns 20years in the new year, it is required that it pass the final e-test with no exceptions.
I'm so pissed off right now!

Sorry all, just venting a bit.
 

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Black/Green Billet Sheen.
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thank god I live in Alberta.....where swapping a v8 is not against the law. we dont really have emissions testing :)
 

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Chrome is Gay
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Go to advance auto and get "Gaurenteed to pass"....put it in with a full tank, use the entire tank, take it to get tested again and if you fail you can get double your money back....I heard alot of positive feedback about that crap :thumbup:
 

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I believe you have a 2.8 with a M/C sol controlled carb. It was and has
always been one of the hardest engines to get to pass smog, at least
here in Cal. GM went so far as to put a heavy duty air pump and
air injection system on em to try and pass. Just a pita ! I used to
set the metering rods at a certain position where the ride would
run like s*it and take it in. Almost always it would pass. If ya don't
stay right on top of that bogus carb and air injection. man it's just
a flat bummer. You more than likely failed CO. Not CO2. If it had
had too much CO2 yer ride would of passed the test. CO2 is a
result of good combustion and the more the better. CO or carbon
monoxide with is a rich running engine, and well that's a bad thing.

I've seen more 2.8 carbed engines fail because of CO or CO and HC's
than just about any other ride around. You could try a new cat.
Get it on and go to the smog shop right from there. if it passes
dump that 2.8 and get yer 350 in. If it doesn't pass...well, you won't
be the first guy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah,
It failed CO you're right. The limit was 1.5 at curb idle and mine blew 3.7. Ouch
I replaced the catalytic converter and we took the vacuum advance (?) switch off, as it wasn't evening working, and took it back and the truck blew 0.0
It passed, so i am happy for now.
I've already got the 305 to put in in the spring. I can hardly wait.

Thanks again all
 

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Excellant. Use to when one could do it, put the rides in base or open
loop where the ECM didn't have anything to do with the running of
the engine. It would most times go right thru as it couldn't advance
the timing = increase in fuel delivery. On your's I believe you had
simple CCC control if that. It's been a few yrs since I've worked on
eary s- trucks. Glad ya got it handled. Pulling the advance helped
a lot on your ride. As did the cat..Now ya don't have to mess with it.

Down here in Ca the cut limit is 30 yrs. What a crock of s**t ! I get
people coming in with PINTOS and rides like that wanting a smog.
I almost hate to do one as I can tell most times if the ride will pass
or not..If it doesn't I hear about it. I try to explain the way a dyno
works to a customer, some handle it ok, some lose it. All I can say
is "I'm not the one who owns the ride. Should of took care of it".
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not sure if this makes sense, but he took the vacuum advance switch out and hooked the vacuum advance directly into the carb. He said now i will have vac advance all the time? Is this a bad thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't need to pass anymore. In Ontario, once the vehicle is 20 years of age, it doesn't have to have the test done anymore. I'm free and clear now.

305's aren't hard to get to pass anyways, even if i had to of had it tested
 

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As far as the advance, it all depends where he plumbed the vacuum
source hose to. If he plumbed it to manifold vacuum you have full
advance at idle and at decel as that's where manifold vacuum is the
strongest. If he plumbed it to ported vacuum, the vacuum advance will
become stronger as the throttle plates open. I don't know where he
plumbed it, and considering all and all don't worry about it, unless
you get undue detonation or the engine overheats very quickly.

As long as it seems to be running ok to you, heck just run it..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well, that's the thing. It runs fine, except for the fact that sometimes it doesn't idle down at a stop light, i quite often am having to kick it down to slow the idle down.
I'm not sure which one he plumbed it too, but it has a bit more get up and go now, which i like, i just wish i could figure out why it quite often won't idle down until i kick it down.
 

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Well from what you just said it sounds like he plumbed it to manifold
vacuum. Manifold vacuum being the strongest at idle or decel sorta
points me to a dist that is staying at it's advance stage as vacuum
is pulling the advance plate in the dist at idle and decel. You could
always take the advance hose off from where it's at now and find
a vacuum port on the carb that is ABOVE the throttle plates, but try
to find a port that's as close to the plates as feasible. This way you'll
have the dist plate at it's standard retarded stage and as you open
the throttle, manifold vacuum disperses and ported vacuum kicks in.
With the dist set to ported vacuum the advance plate should move
towards it's advance stage..This isn't how it always works, but it might.

Course you could always and probably should just put the advance
swt back on and plumb it like it was from the factory. That's your
best bet.If you go with ported vacuum for the dist, your idle should
come back down to where it was at before the changeover.

Good luck with it.
 

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SVT Cobra Moderator
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ReedZ said:
I don't need to pass anymore. In Ontario, once the vehicle is 20 years of age, it doesn't have to have the test done anymore. I'm free and clear now.

305's aren't hard to get to pass anyways, even if i had to of had it tested
i thought the vehical had to come with that motor from the factory to pass the test
 
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