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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 96 s10 2.2l that had a blown engine. Pulled that engine and replaced it with 99 2.2l out of a s10. I kept the intake from the 99 and did some wiring so that all the sensors would match up (all sensors are showing up working on the scanner). Changed the crank sensor and put in fuel lines that would match up to the fuel rail. Anyway I’m having a problem of random stumbling. When I’m going down the road I have no acceleration kind of like I’m missfireing on all cylinders and the truck shakes real bad. Already changed plugs wires and coil packs. Checked fuel pressure all good there. Scanner is saying I have normal long term fuel trim and when it starts stumbling it shoots up to 17% at idle and cruise. Also load will be at 99 when stumbling. I’ve looked for months and can not find out the issue. Only thing I suspect is the engine does not have an egr (only check engine light is for egr), or as I have read the 99 has a different reluctor wheel then the 96 for the crank sensor. Honestly at a loss and not sure what to do at this point.
 

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If the reluctor wheels are different, that's most likely your problem. Which year CKP sensor did you use. You could try rewiring the engine as a 99 and use a 99 PCM compatible with that reluctor. Might lose ABS or A/C, tho.
I have also heard the CKP signal goes to the ICM first then the PCM and some guys have had luck swapping in the later ICM
See this, read Getting Cranky. If it's possible this thread probably will tell you so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you think that doing a crank relearn could possibly set it right in the computer. The more I have read up on it I saw that you should do a relearn on it after you replace the crank sensor.
 

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1998-‘99: These engines still used the 4618 casting, but the timing notches were advanced by about 0.450", so the later crank can’t be interchanged with either of the earlier ones.
A crank relearn is not going to change this. You need a 96-97 engine.
 

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I was initially thinking he could swap in a 99 PCM, but not after looking them up. The following year 00 they switched to the 12202203 P01 which GM continued to use till the end of 4 cyl S10 production.
I wonder if he could use a 12202203 and run a 2000 2.2 program and harness? The crank stayed the same.
Would require repinning the PCM, which would require both 96 and 00 wiring diagrams and some serious study to be sure it will work and very careful attention to detail. Any changes in A/C or ABS between those would also have to accounted for and the lack of an underhood fuse box in 96.
Didn't say it would be easy. Just thinking it might be possible.
As MBP says, it'd be best to simply get the correct year engine.
We've all fallen victim to our bright ideas and ended up with a pile of useless parts. It's one of the hard ways to learn. Learning when to cut your losses is the one we seem to always learn last.
 

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You're talking donor truck to make this work. If you don't delete VATS, you're going to need everything to make that happy (the BCM and ignition switch.. basically the entire steering column, they don't mount the same; the switch to the column, the 98+ column won't mount straight into the '96.) It's just a lot of fun you don't want to have most likely.

Short story, sell the '99 motor and get a 96-97 motor, or sell the '96 truck and find a 98-00 (VIN 4) with a blown motor to put the '99 motor into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Drove it to work today started stumbling when I first started it this morning. Ran fine the rest of the day. Got home went to look at it more it started stumbling again. I ran a vacuum test on it when stumbling and it it showing late ignition timing. When it stops stumbling normal vacuum. I’m really not trying to buy a new truck or do anymore extensive work on this truck. Do you think I could maybe get a tune that will tell the ignition to fire at the point it is supposed to fire for that crank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I also still have the old engine could I take the crank out of that one and put it in the engine in the truck. If so would it be possible to change the crank with the engine in the truck?
 

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You'd have a fun enough time getting the pan off without removing the engine, let alone the crank. I don't think the cranks interchange, I can't remember the reason, I think @rimara knows.
 

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Based on the info in the thread I linked in post #2 the 96-7 & 98-9 cranks use the same casting. The difference is the location of the notches for the CKP sensor. So theoretically you could swap the cranks if the old one is still OK.
Gonna need to pull the engine to do the swap, tho. Since your bearings are used I wouldn't do it w/o all new bearings. I've never used bearings on two different cranks regardless of miles or how they look. They tend to shape themselves to each crank. You might also need to grind or polish the old crank unless it's in real good shape.
 
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