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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I got a couple questions. Sorry if I seem like an idiot.

I have an '88 Chevy S10 with the 2.5L TBI Code E engine. It's sitting at 194,xxx miles right now and I figured as I'm driving it I can get another 2.5 and build it the way I want. So here's what I'm hoping to do.

-Port and polish the head
-Turbo: I have one, it's a VJ11-8708 Part No. F220 B
-Performance Cam
-New Crank bearings
-New piston seals
-Complete exhaust work
-2.8L V6 TBI intake swap

What all of that can I do? I figure if the crank can't handle the power, maybe I can find one that can. And if I do the cam, what other timing would I need? Do I need to get a different distributor? Will the computer work or do I need the 2.8L one or do I need it chipped/programmed?

I also have an issue with my transmission right now, so I got a 2.8L trans for free. What all do I need to get it to work with it? I had heard it bolts right up after switching the bell housings. Both trans are 5 speed.

The turbo is really just a, "Haha, I got a turbo on a 2.5," kinda deal. Nobody at my local/weekly car show has done it and thinks it's worth it.

I figure I won't get much out of all of this but I'd like to show I can do it and have more power to play with.:haha:
 

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Boosted S Dime
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what cam are you planning on running? im running the .489 comp cam.
2.8 tbi will do you good, i used it as well as the 4.3 with the high performance injectors i got off of ebay til i got my carb swap in. port and polished head didnt help me til the turbo.

what trim is that turbo? i wouldnt recommend anything over like 65 trim.

for the transmission, i would recomend geting the borg warner performer/perfomance rebuild and a good clutch, the stock tranny has alot of "dull spots", i wasnt getting any power out of it after like 2700rpms until i got the rebuild.
your crank should be able to handle the power for a while as long as you dont boost over 10psi, but i would strongly suggest new connecting rods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
My gas mileage at the moment is like 25-30 if I'm easy on it. I love these light pickup trucks. Also, I don't mind if I lose a bit of MPG from doing all this. If it goes down to like 15 MPG then it'd be a problem but by then I should have my VW Cabriolet working (light things get like 35-40 MPG).

what cam are you planning on running? im running the .489 comp cam.
2.8 tbi will do you good, i used it as well as the 4.3 with the high performance injectors i got off of ebay til i got my carb swap in. port and polished head didnt help me til the turbo.

what trim is that turbo? i wouldnt recommend anything over like 65 trim.

for the transmission, i would recomend geting the borg warner performer/perfomance rebuild and a good clutch, the stock tranny has alot of "dull spots", i wasnt getting any power out of it after like 2700rpms until i got the rebuild.
your crank should be able to handle the power for a while as long as you dont boost over 10psi, but i would strongly suggest new connecting rods.
Sorry for not being to knowledgeable about the cams but I can't seem to find much on them. It's hard enough for me to find one cam for a 2.5 that isn't stock. Where do you go to see different performance cams for these guys and what are the differences between them? I know they change when the air/fuel mixture and exhaust enters/leaves but other than that I have no idea what .489 means.

Would you need to get high performance injectors when you switch to a 2.8 TBI or can I just bolt on the stock intake and injector? I'm not planning to go carb because I like the TBI setup. It's weird, but I like having something different.

For the turbo, I'm not sure where to find the trim but let me see if I can... Okay, from what people are saying it's .60 trim so I guess it's ok.

I figured I'd need to make a world-class T5 but the borg warner I got right now will do until I can get one. As a good clutch what would you recommend? I figure stock won't do after the mods but would a stage 1 be okay or should I go higher?

I'm thinking the turbo I got will probably only net me like 5-7 PSI but I'll look into a better crank to be safe. I was reading here that cams and crankshafts from other 4 cyl motors would work but do you know which ones or should I just buy a new performance one from someone? As for the connecting rods....I'm guessing you mean the part that connects the piston head to the crank? Sorry, I'm really bad with terminology right now.

Thanks for any info you can get me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've been reading the S10 2.5 Myths and Differences thread on here and found some interesting things.

From what I've read, the crank really can't hold more than 150HP but I can get it stronger through cryo. Question is, do I cryo or do I try to rig up a different crank? Maybe I can buy a new forged crank... If I go with a rigged crank, then I'll have to change the connecting rods to match; and if I do that, I might as well bore the cylinders .020 and get the piston heads that will work for it.

At this point I'm definitely going to be changing the computer, so I'm at a complete loss as to what to do. Help...
 

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cams: http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP2010/pdf/COMP_Catalog_2010_240-247.pdf
it tells you what each gives you running wise

stock injector will be fine, might want to get a 2 bar map sensor as well, they can read boost up to like 20psi or so. might even be able to run stock tbi with one which i think someone on here has who was turbo'd you can fin the 2 bar on summit or jegs for 50-60 bucks

world class t5 is a great choice so stick with that plan but your stock will do fine untill then, just dont boost alot with it

a good alternative crank is the 153 marine engine crank, they are pretty strong and can be found for like 50 bucks on ebay on a good day but can run around 100 on there as well so look around locally first.

if your looking for some additional power you can look into the 3.0l build like i have done or even the fiero 2.7 build. i was supposed to do a build thread on the 3.0l for people on here but i was involved in a head on collision and was in the hospital forever and could never get around to it but ive seen the part numbers needed on here before
 

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20 trim just sounds too small do you have a pic of it, or take a metric ruler and measure the compressor fins diameter in millimeters to get the size for it and the turbine is usually around 4 millimeters bigger
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Now that I'm thinking about it, the turbo doesn't seem like a good idea. I'm not a fan of power that needs to wind up; I just want to get up and go. I can still send a picture so I have a better idea of what it is but I may not go with it.

Another idea was chipping it or programming it. Is there anything like that for these?

Thanks for any info you can supply me and sorry to hear about the head on collision you had. Hope you're okay now.
 

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20 trim sounds like a little ol' stock turbo off of a 240 or so

well you can get get mega squirt and remap your fuel management wich will cost around 500+ for everything
or you can get a chip custom made from tbi chips which i wouldnt think would be worth the money as you might gain like 15hp lol

to really get power out of these you have to do internal work like i have or turbo charging them like i have as well. but once they are built, they are awesome!

but you can just get your turbo setup on stock internals stock tbi with a 2bar and like 5 psi and a knock sensor for safety and you should be fine and feel some extra power and a hell of a lot more torque. with this set up on a vin E cast 2.5 you will probably see like 120hp max which is a whole lot better than the 90hp it has stock but if you cant get the stuff for cheap or make some of the stuff yourself( i made the intake bonnet, exhaust maifold, and the exshaust myself) just save your money for regular problems and maintenance or do a motor swap
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It all sounds reasonable. Now from what I've read as well, it'd be best for me to get a code A motor. Can I do all that I've been thinking of with one? My main worry is if the code A motor can use the 2.8 TBI as well. I figure if I can find a vehicle with the code A then I can get the computer and wiring harness out of it too.

Apparently the turbo came out of a Ford Probe. BTW, the map sensor would be if I wanted to add a turbo right?
 

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Boosted S Dime
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code a casts are nice from what i hear. i come from a dirt track racing shop and we worship the vin e cast because they make great engines to build and can take absolute hell on on the track, im not real familiar with the vin a things though so someone else will have to help you with that stuff.

does your turbo look anything like this?

this is a warner- ishi turbo off of a probe, it was the first turbo to go on my truck


and yes the 2bar is only need so your fuel management can read boost if you're turbo'd
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It looks almost exactly like it. It's not a Warner though; I can't find any special name for it.

I'm sure it'd all work the same but I'll look around for any code A specialties. I may just stick with code E though.

Got another question for you. Are you using the stock head or some aftermarket thing? I was just going to port and polish it but maybe I can get a cosworth 16v head and matching pistons?
 

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i got a stock one, had it resurfaced, new valve guides, seals, and valves. and its shaved 20 thousandths, ported out a little bit as well just enough to round the exhaust flow more as stock flow is absolutely horrible.
16v head has been floating around our shop for a while now but we've never tried it. id say go for it if you feel up to it. but its been done many of times or so ive heard
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This is the first time I've heard of a Cosworth head for 2.5's so at least it's never been done in my area. You've been a big help, thanks.

Do you have an actual shop? NC isn't far so if you do maybe I'll stop by on my way to Florida some time and check out what you've done.

I was thinking of shaving the head a bit but wasn't sure if I'd have enough clearance for the valve when the piston hit TDC. Tried and true seems to be a rule here so I guess it's okay.

I have an odd question though. I have AC in my truck right now and all the parts are ran with a serpentine belt. Does the AC compressor use up power when it is off as well? I figure it would because it's another thing to spin but maybe it's like 5 HP off and 15 HP on?

Also, so I'm sure I got this right. When I get a performance cam, do I need to get a different timing gear for it or does the stock one work?
 

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i know that ac takes away noticeable power, so you can look into an ac delete. my truck came factory with no ac so i never had any power loss from it.
yea we have an actual shop, i mainly do exhaust systems but i did alot of the work on my truck and have worked on many others as well

well if you get a cam for the 151 it goes right in place of the stock, but after a certain lift amount you will need extended lifters and new seals/guides and such. check out cliffordperformance.com i remember seeing cam kits that have everything you need like the lifters and seals in last years catalog they had. there catalog feels really scrambled though so take your time looking through it if you do.
 

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but thats just me, my boss is a highly experienced dirt track car builder and has done some 2.5s for bowman gray stadium. idk if you know what that is but its a track here, it had its own tv show it think it was called mad house

where do you live?
maybe if im close enough i can just drive my truck up and show you what a setup is like when its done on these trucks
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm up here in Northern VA so it's a bit of a drive for you I'd think. I got a few more questions while trying to sleep.

Your sig says you have a 3.0L so did you decide to bore it? What kinda HP are you seeing?

Do you know how I can get a 6cyl dash cluster to work with these 4 cyl wiring? I'd like to have my tach, temp, and oil guages. The computers aren't really a good prewarning.

Is my 4.11:1 rear strong enough or would I have to make it stronger or switch to a 3.73:1 rear?

How would I know if the turbo I have is in working condition or would I need to go to someone to find out?

When I get a job and some money saved up I'd like to check out your shop though. It seems like a great way to learn more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you are near Winston-Salem, where the track you are talking about is located, then you are only like....100 miles from here. I could make that trip easy if my 5th gear wasn't broken. Need to hurry up and make the trans swap...
 
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