I have been dealing with a non working EGR valve for a while now and just realized something. When I remove the vacuum line from the EGR valve solenoid, the truck runs a lot better but it will miss a bit at idle and has definate detonation when pulling hills like everyone elses does with no EGR.
What I dont get, is that with the vacuum hose disconnected so the EGR valve is closed, it runs OK and seals perfectly shut. But if I put the vacuum line on the EGR solenoid, if i even CRACK the throttle a hair, the solenoid MUST be giving the egr a bit of vacuum and opening it because my engine will start to lean out horribly and not rev up past 1000rpm and sputter, choke, cough, and die out.
I thoguht the EGR was ONLY suposed to open at 45+ sustained cruise? Why on earth is my valve opening on part throttle idle? I have cleaned the hell out of the valve, new gasket, and bought a new EGR solenoid and hoses. It seems like the EGR vavle solenoid is pulsing my EGR at the wrong time or the vacuum port for the EGR solenoid is not working? I am puzzled how it can be opening on idle... When it should be shut tight until needed???
What I dont get, is that with the vacuum hose disconnected so the EGR valve is closed, it runs OK and seals perfectly shut. But if I put the vacuum line on the EGR solenoid, if i even CRACK the throttle a hair, the solenoid MUST be giving the egr a bit of vacuum and opening it because my engine will start to lean out horribly and not rev up past 1000rpm and sputter, choke, cough, and die out.
I thoguht the EGR was ONLY suposed to open at 45+ sustained cruise? Why on earth is my valve opening on part throttle idle? I have cleaned the hell out of the valve, new gasket, and bought a new EGR solenoid and hoses. It seems like the EGR vavle solenoid is pulsing my EGR at the wrong time or the vacuum port for the EGR solenoid is not working? I am puzzled how it can be opening on idle... When it should be shut tight until needed???