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Poke Smot
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just finished cleaning up the gun etc. The Nason duPont paint needs a "medium" coat, let tack, and then a full wet coat. Well I don't know what the heck I was thinking - I Effed It All Up. My fault. Ugly runs. This is my first time using automotive paint, I have sprayed tons of Latex paint as I am a paint by trade. When I saw the runs my instinct grabbed a rag and whipped it off and then resprayed:rant: I effed it.

So...all I can do is wait a couple days and then start standing it down with the DA with 400 grit. Right? Do I need to actually sand the paint off and start over or can I just sand it till its smooth and then try again? :(
 

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Poke Smot
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
My bad for the pointless rant, I am just venting. Pretty disapointed I gotta pretty much start all over and probably re tape and mask everything dammit.
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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well... it was savable up til you grabbed a rag a wiped it off, it depends on where it was run at, but if it was near the bottom, you could have ran it right off the edge and you would never know, but if it was in the middle all you can do is continue painting like normal, but youd have some sanding and buffing to do the next day.... it still -might- be savable without redoing it... what does it look like?

its funny that you mention latex paint, ive tried spraying latex a few times and i screw it up every time, but base coat clear coat i can lay down blind folded
 

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Poke Smot
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445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Hey thanks for chiming in man! And I am a painter by trade. I can spray latex with my eyes closed and it is very forgiving material when it comes to runs. So I paniced and out of instinct grabbed the rag. I sprayed overtop of it again though, but its still crap. This automotive paint deal is a science in my eyes. It seems you shouldnt watch the surface the paint is landing on, but instead it felt like you need to watch 'behind' the paint output...

The only way to know whats up is to just try it. Which I did, and I admit I effed up. I will show you exacly what is looks like.

I must of did something right, because the finish was smooth and shiny. Everything was going excellent and then all of a sudden BAMB. It turned into a fail. Trial and error I suppose. It seems like I took the term 'wet' coat (for second coat, after the first "medium") coat a little too litteral. I should of put another light coat on for second, then try to load the paint on for 3rd.

 

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Poke Smot
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Does this sound a good way to approach fixing this?

I turned the heat up a couple notces in the garage ( kick ass overhead radiant heat), and am hopeing the paint will be hardened by saturday. Take the DA to the runs with 320, and then finish with 400. I am sure I will sand to primer in some areas, but was thinking I could give a couple light coats of paint as a spot prime, let that harden, and then go over everything with 400 again. Re tape it all, then start at first base again with the one light "tack" coat, followed by another, THEN load the paint on for the 'money coat'?
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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wait... what are we working with here... is that base or single stage? cause it looks like single stage to me

if it is single stage then yeah, crank the heat and let it cure as much as you can, theres no fixing whats already there, thats even a stretch for a bc/cc job.... when its fully dry, BLOCK the runs out, if you use a DA they the runs will ghost through because a DA tends to follow the surface rather than ride the high spots, if that makes any sense... you can use a DA to knock it down a bit, but make sure you finish it by hand with a block

re tape, re shoot....

also another thing i noticed in that pic... was that supposed to be your last coat? cause you arent at full coverage yet, i can see a difference in tone between different parts of the panel, especially the runs, if you were at full coverage the runs would be the same shade as the surrounding non-runny paint... every single stage ive ever used took about 6+ coats to get full coverage, especially the cheaper brands
 

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Poke Smot
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes single stage. This was done at about 12PM today. I just went and looked at it, the drips are still marshmellowy. So, hope by Saturday or even tomorrow evening everything is hard.

Its pretty bad actually, I have a couple screwed up areas other then that. I was pictureing just going to each run and DA it out, pretty much down to primer. With the original tape still on, blow it off and wipe it down then spot prime the bare areas with paint. Two light coats. Let that cure, and then DA the whole thing with 400. Then start over. Would that work? I might have to look into the blocking thing, since I don't know what im doing.

And yeah, this was a my second coat. I should of thought a little harder and not put it on so thick. Hopefully we can get this back on track and finished properly.
 

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Poke Smot
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445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
DuPont Nason Ful-Cryl II acylic enamel

Pro Form wet look acrylic enamel hardener

Nason Ful-Base 441-21 Medium Reducer

This is what the paint store sold me when the paint.
 

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"It was all a Dream"
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2,930 Posts
first coat is usually called a tack coat. put it on about 6-8 inches away but make your passes a be kinda fast . not looking for coverage or uniform just a coat for everything to bite to
 

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Poke Smot
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
maybe check it out tommorow at 12 but if your free for the weekend let it set up good and hit it early saturday
Never even thought to look for a sheet like this. Its a little more detaield then the side of the can, Thanks alot man.

I am going to aim at getting full solid color all sanded and preppeed with 400 grit after spot priming some areas that may reach primer when removing the runs. (might even spot prime with sum 2K Filler and sand that in prior to laying down color spot prime)

After that, hope to getterdone.
 

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Poke Smot
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Within the tech sheets:

Integrated Clear: To enhance depth of color and
provide a custom look, Ful-Thane® 401-20™
Integrated 2K Urethane clear may be used.


Is this worth trying to do in the end?

EDIT: I was going to delete this, but dosn't look like you can. I am sure just the single stage paint on its own will be fine.
 

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Poke Smot
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445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have started sanding the runs, and blocked to smooth out the different layers of material showing. Once it is all sanded I will have to put some etching primer on the bare metal spots, and then go around with some 2K filler. Sand the whole thing with 600, and then should I spot prime these areas with paint to have a solid color to start with? Or just put three full medium coats down and then sand it smooth with 600 before attempting the finish coats?
 

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"It was all a Dream"
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i'd do like you are doing up until after primer. i would hit it with 400 on a da and red scotch brite your edges and hard to get to spots then just proceed with paint. let your coats set up before you put the next. after a first coat wait like 10 minutes (actually not just what you think is 10) then touch the paint in a not so obvious place to see if its started tacking up. you'll know when its still wet and when its starting to kick. if its tacky go with the next coat
 

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Poke Smot
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay, that makes more sence. I am assuming after the first coat tacks to put another similer medium coat on, and after that tacks, it is time to load the paint on a little more. I will take my time and watch what is happening. Worst comes to worse, I can let the new paint harden (hopefully with no runs) and then sand it again with 600 and then do another three coats hopefully wrapping it up nice. Thank you psycho-sid. The best way to learn is to screw up and then look for help. I dont really like readying articles because when it comes time to do it I don't want to be side track thinking about all this shit I read Ha Ha.
 

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Poke Smot
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ya man I got it all sanded with 320 grit and the DA. Blocked down a few spots that showed the layers of material to smooth it all down. I then finish sanded it all with 400. Now it is time to rattle can some etching primer on a few bare spots, and I think I am going to spot prime with filler two coats and then just coat the whole damb with with filler once. Then sand away with 500. Then try this painting thing again:) Looking forward to it. Better not get any runs:rant:
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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since youre having trouble with it, you may want to consider doing a test panel first before moving onto the real thing, that way you can find the run threshold of the paint
 
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