S-10 Forum banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I Got A 96 Hombre 2.2 That Has Had The Ecm Replaced Because The Truck Would Shut Off While Driving Or Just Not Start. I Took It To A Dealer And They Had It For A Week And Couldn't Figure Out What Was Wrong So ISUZU Told Them To Replace The ECM. Now 2 Years Later It Is Doing The Same Thing. What Happens Is I'll Turn The Key On And It Will Crank But Won't Fire. If I Wait Awhile I'll Try Again And I'll Hear A Click Sound At The Relays In The Glove Box And Then The Service Engine Light Flashes Once Then I'll Hear The Fuel Pump Kick On Then It Will Fire. If I Don't Hear The Click Then It Won't Fire. I Replaced All Three Relays In The Glove Box But It Didn't Fix The Problem. Any Body Know What The Hell Is Going On?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Truck Would Shut Off While Driving Or Just Not Start. I Took It To A Dealer And They Had It For A Week And Couldn't Figure Out What Was Wrong So ISUZU Told Them To Replace The ECM.
Once Then I'll Hear The Fuel Pump Kick On Then It Will Fire.

I have a similar problem with a 4.3L 1991 s-10 pickup.
This truck since we purchased 3-4 months ago has never low idled very well. I thought and was encourage by the seller that it was a simple choke adj. Not the case. Next the truck shut-off in the middle of driving as if someone pulled the plug or the computer shut-it down. After it cooled it would start up again and run fine for 20-25 min of driving then it shut down again. I replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, & rotor button. Again it would start up consistently after shutting down. The run-time gets shorter and shorter. I pulled the ignition module from the distributor and had it tested a chain parts house. It checked out ok. Then I used the Hilty manual and measured the Ignition coil and pickup coil and they both looked good according to the specification. I was advised to change the fuel pump and finally did after checking for power at the TPS and MAP sensors. I also inspected the vacuum lines and some appear to begin the dry rot they had no holes. Another site recommended cleaning and inspecting the EGR valve. I did this as well and the bladder was good and would create a vacuum from the stub where the vacuum line connected to it. After all that I replaced the fuel pump. Then I proceeded to crank the car and discover there was no fire from the plug. There has not been a check engine light through the whole process. My battery is strong and in good shape. After the fuel pump I checked the power to the coil and there definitely is getting power and passing it to the control module in the distributor. I tried to trace outside of that to a TACH terminal but could not figure out where it was and finally just pulled the module out again and again the chain store checked it and it was good. I just am running out of things to do. Another friend thinks it is the ECM ($$$$) I want to make certain before I change that. I am exhausted and drained trying to get my kids wheels and insurance. Help! I don't think if you hear the relays, then they don't need replacement. I am sorry to hear you need to replace ECM again b/c I am likely doing that next.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
My truck used to shut off while driving too. It had a big thing to do with the fuel pump. The s-10 pumps are known to fail all the time. After changing the pump three times i found out that the connection on the pump was shitty. There is a plug connector that connects to the pump to tell it when to send fuel. The little connectors inside of that werent touching all the way. But the weird part is that if the motor was cool it would run fine. As soon as it got to running temp it would sputter and stall out and wouldnt startup for another 20min. Once i fixed the connectors it has been running fine for over a year now. Hope this helps.
Craig
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top