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· If ya aint 1st your last!
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So what about using a complete f body setup?

Also can I put 2wd rotors on a 4wd blazer to pull the wheel in some or do I just need to strip it all down and run it to the truck its a 84 2wd.
 

· That 3D picture dude guy
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possibilty on the f body setup, no on the rotors. the rotor itself isnt what causes the extra width. the axle housing and axle are overall wider.
 

· Registered
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I have a 98 s10 ls ext cab 2.2 with a GT5 4.10 rear end drums. I want to swap over to disc. I found two blazer rear ends. One is the 3.42 and the other is 3.73. Wich one should I get? Do I need to keep 4.10 gears?
 

· That 3D picture dude guy
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With the 2.2, I would recommend it, yes. The 2.2's normally have the 4.10 gears because of their lack of power. Not that the 4.3 is any kind of speed demon, but the 2.2 is just more.... gutless. lol.

On a side note, anyone doing the conversion, I just want to warn you about how tight you torque your caliper hose bolts. They should be torqued to 33 ft lbs. Also, if you are lowered significantly, you need to mount the hose to the caliper 180 degrees from how it is suppose to be so the hose doesn't rub on the frame. I just found my Banjo bolts leaking today and found they were too loose. So invest in a torque wrench.
 

· desertpatriot
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358 Posts
i have `00 S10 2.2L ext cab w/GT5 4.10 drum rear end as well. swapped out rear end recently from a `02 2wd blazer GU6 3.42. everything went smoothly (fits like a glove) except now the abs & brake lights come on. to resolve this issue should i remove/bypass external brake proportioning valve, bend lines and hook them up directly to abs box from master cylinder?
 

· That 3D picture dude guy
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I noticed you swapped gear ratios... did you reprogram your new ratio into the computer? If not, that my be the cause of your ABS light. The brake light, I'm unsure of. It could be anything from low fluid to trapped air.
 

· wrenchin' for life
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highly suggest checkin codes before doing anything else. and gear ratio likely needs to be reprogrammed as said before me haha
 

· desertpatriot
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358 Posts
no, i did not reprogram computer for new gear ratio. could someone please provide a link for instructions on reprogramming? thanx

checked for codes and found none
 

· That 3D picture dude guy
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You need to take it to either a shop with a scanner that can read/write to the EBCM or take it to the dealer to have them change it.
 

· desertpatriot
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thanx but i'm the do-it-yourselfer type. with a laptop, an adapter and the right program i may get lucky. the pursuit continues
 

· That 3D picture dude guy
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Sorry bud, but you have to have a scanner that can interface with the abs portion of the EBCM. which cost boo-koo $$$. Take it to the shop.
 

· desertpatriot
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358 Posts
next issue: emergency brake cable is 2" short since rear end change over
question: do i need to remove cable from `98+ 4dr 2wd blazer/jimmy?
btw: new rear end came off of `02 4dr 2wd blazer
 

· Registered
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Has anyone figured out a workable solution for the emergency parking brakes for these drum-to-disc swaps? What specific vehicles...blazers, camaros, etc. and years will provide the correct length cables?

From reading this thread, I have determined that for my '92 ext cab S10, I should look for cables from a 4 dr blazer.

Yesterday, I found a 2000 4x4 Blazer with rear disc brakes but noticed that the emergency brake configuration was quite different. From what I could see, because the front ends of the cables were different, I probably could use only the driver's side cable. I seem to recall reading somewhere that I would need two driver's side cables for my setup. Can anyone confirm this so I don't go chasing around for cables that will endup in a dark corner of my garage.

Thanks!
 

· Registered
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I took a baby blazer 2002 and bolted it into an 82 ext cab truck. Just welded the brackets for E brake cables to the frame and fab'd a small cable to meet the cable coming from the parking brake cable in the cab.
I did change the brake proportioning valve under the brake booster.
Done.
 

· 92 dime 4x4
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252 Posts
This was done on a 1995 CHEVY S10 2.2

Parts
1. Brackets from www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rearend/axle flange)

2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)

3. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)

4. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I prefered braided)

Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lugnuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jackstands. Remove wheels.

2. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.

3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and hace the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside of 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)

4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.

3. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.

is was done on a 1995 CHEVY S10 2.2 with stock rear end.

Parts
1. Brackets from www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rear end/axle flange)
2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)
3. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear caliper pads
4. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)
5. Axle seals which are around $5 each
6. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I preferred braided)
7. New wheel studs for the rear which I believe are $1-$2 each. (I recommend replacing while axles are out)

Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lug nuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jack stands. Remove wheels.
2. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and have the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement studs from any automotive store are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)
4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate, master wheel cylinder & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.
5. Replace your axle seals while the axles are out and check your bearings (replace bearings if needed).
6. Test fit your caliper bracket from www.scarebird.com. Drill any necessary holes in bracket to mount it securely to rear end. (I had to use a die grinder and take a bit out of the middle of the bracket to make it sit properly against the rear end before drilling necessary holes for mounting.)
7. Once bracket is mounted securely and axle seals are replaced then reinstall axles. Push axles all the way in & reinstall C clip then pull the axle out locking it in place. Install center pin and center pin bolt.
8. Make sure no debris went in the rear diff if left uncovered while axles where out getting machined. Reinstall rear differential cover and fill back up with 80W-90 gear lube (I used 80W-90 Vavoline Gear Lube) through fill plug located at the front right of the rear end (when looking at the back of it front right). Fill up to the bottom of the plug which I believe is around 2-2.5 qts.
9. Install rotors, calipers & pads. (Calipers are from the rear of a 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado and bolt right to brackets with factory caliper bolts)
10. You will need a longer E-brake cable if you are planning on using the e-brake. The cable connects to a e-brake lever on the rear of the calipers.
11. Reconnect brake lines and fill up the master cylinder then bleed the brakes.
12. Go for a test drive and make sure everything is working properly.
Will this work on a 1992 4x4 with the 4.3 5 speed? also what car should i get the axle from ?
 
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