This was done on a
1995 CHEVY S10 2.2
Parts
1. Brackets from
www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rearend/axle flange)
2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)
3. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)
4. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I prefered braided)
Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lugnuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jackstands. Remove wheels.
2. If your truck has
C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have
bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and hace the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside of 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)
4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.
3. If your truck has
C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have
bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
is was done on a 1995 CHEVY S10 2.2 with stock rear end.
Parts
1. Brackets from
www.scarebird.com $100 (you will have to drill your own holes in brackets to mount them to the rear end/axle flange)
2. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers/has e-brake lever on back of caliper to connect your lines to. (These are a little over $100 each new so I went with used and just cleaned them up)
3. 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado rear caliper pads
4. 1994-1998 S10 4x4 front rotors (the axle shaft flange needs to be trimmed down to fit inside of rotors with about 0.010-0.045 clearance)
5. Axle seals which are around $5 each
6. Braided lines with fittings to connect to calipers (factory lines can be used but I preferred braided)
7. New wheel studs for the rear which I believe are $1-$2 each. (I recommend replacing while axles are out)
Instructions
1. Block front wheels and crack lug nuts loose on rear wheels. Jack up rear of truck and support it with jack stands. Remove wheels.
2. If your truck has C clip axle retainers then you will need to take of the rear differential cover (pumpkin cover) & drain fluid. Then remove center pin retaining bolt & center pin. Once you have the center pin out push your axle in to remove the C clips keeping it in place, once the clip is out the axle will pull right out. (make sure to watch your gears so that they don't fall out of place when doing this). Now if you have bolt in axles remove bolts then attach slide hammer and remove axle shafts.
3. Once the axles are out you will need to bring them to a machine shop and have the axle flanges trimmed down to fit inside 94-98 S10 4X4 front rotors with around 0.010-0.045 clearance. (I recommend replacing your wheel studs while axles are out. Replacement studs from any automotive store are a bit longer then your current ones if you need the couple extra threads)
4. Remove drums with all hardware, backing plate, master wheel cylinder & disconnect brake lines and e-brake.
5. Replace your axle seals while the axles are out and check your bearings (replace bearings if needed).
6. Test fit your caliper bracket from
www.scarebird.com. Drill any necessary holes in bracket to mount it securely to rear end. (I had to use a die grinder and take a bit out of the middle of the bracket to make it sit properly against the rear end before drilling necessary holes for mounting.)
7. Once bracket is mounted securely and axle seals are replaced then reinstall axles. Push axles all the way in & reinstall C clip then pull the axle out locking it in place. Install center pin and center pin bolt.
8. Make sure no debris went in the rear diff if left uncovered while axles where out getting machined. Reinstall rear differential cover and fill back up with 80W-90 gear lube (I used 80W-90 Vavoline Gear Lube) through fill plug located at the front right of the rear end (when looking at the back of it front right). Fill up to the bottom of the plug which I believe is around 2-2.5 qts.
9. Install rotors, calipers & pads. (Calipers are from the rear of a 1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado and bolt right to brackets with factory caliper bolts)
10. You will need a longer E-brake cable if you are planning on using the e-brake. The cable connects to a e-brake lever on the rear of the calipers.
11. Reconnect brake lines and fill up the master cylinder then bleed the brakes.
12. Go for a test drive and make sure everything is working properly.