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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My door hinge is really loose, and now I have to lift the door when closing it to get things to line up.

350563


Here's a video of it:


Any tips on repairing that, since the hinge is welded on?
 

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Search for door hinge pin…
 
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Super easy fix man, the pins come with new bushings and instructions and are cheap. Tell me what year it is and I will post your a link np.
 

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And I've been meaning to post about the ignition, I have to jiggle the key really hard to get it to turn when starting it, and now I have to jiggle it to get the key back out too (that part is new). Is that a common issue too?
 

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And I've been meaning to post about the ignition, I have to jiggle the key really hard to get it to turn when starting it, and now I have to jiggle it to get the key back out too (that part is new). Is that a common issue too?
Sorry, can't help you with the ignition, I have a Gen 1, ignition is wore out like chevys all do, don't need a key, I love that lol.
Here is the hinge kit you need :
13 bucks for both doors !!!!
DOOR HINGE PINS
 

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If the pin holes are ovaled out, you may need to weld and file them. Some guys use JB Weld. I haven't had any problems with my 26 year old pins.
 
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I found over-sized bushings for my door because the holes got wallowed out a bit, It helped immensely but it still isn't perfect. But then again, my door looks like someone tried flexing the window frame to get into it.
 

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My door hinge is really loose, and now I have to lift the door when closing it to get things to line up.

View attachment 350563

Here's a video of it:


Any tips on repairing that, since the hinge is welded on?
I just did my pins and bushings and the door still sags. Dorman's bushings are loose fitting. I would try factory or some other source. Also you need a $10 tool to remove the spring.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

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I just did my pins and bushings and the door still sags. Dorman's bushings are loose fitting. I would try factory or some other source. Also you need a $10 tool to remove the spring.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
Hi, you sure they were not loose fitting because the holes were ovaled out as mentioned above ? And I used these pins np with no special tool. Maybe they are diff now, I did it 10 years ago.
 

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The pins fit loosely in the bushings. I noticed that putting them in. I can see the movement when lifting the door. Passenger side is stock and has no play.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

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I think if you're careful you can change the pins without the springs shooting out of there like a missile. There are lots of YouTube videos.
 

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If the new pins are a loose fit in the bushings, take them back and get better fitting ones from a different company.
Dorman parts have no QC so you never know it the part will be any good.
If the hinges are wallowed out put the bushing in the original position using the side not wallowed out as a guide. The push some JB weld in the loose area to support the bushing so it doesn't crack right away. I've use the JB weld epoxy in the past and if you allow it to harden it's as hard as the steel was and will last as long.
Putting a little white lithium grease on the pins when you install them is good and a squirt of motor oil at each oil change on them and the new ones will last longer than you do. An occasional drop of oil is what they were supposed to get from the beginning.
 

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If the new pins are a loose fit in the bushings, take them back and get better fitting ones from a different company.
Dorman parts have no QC so you never know it the part will be any good.
If the hinges are wallowed out put the bushing in the original position using the side not wallowed out as a guide. The push some JB weld in the loose area to support the bushing so it doesn't crack right away. I've use the JB weld epoxy in the past and if you allow it to harden it's as hard as the steel was and will last as long.
Putting a little white lithium grease on the pins when you install them is good and a squirt of motor oil at each oil change on them and the new ones will last longer than you do. An occasional drop of oil is what they were supposed to get from the beginning.
Sorry, I did not mean to link him to junk pins, those are the exact ones I used.
 

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Sorry, I did not mean to link him to junk pins, those are the exact ones I used.
Not meant to sound critical.
Just have had issues with some of Dorkmans stuff. I've also had issues with Holley products. So you never know. (Most of Holley's stuff is also made you know where.) They just charge more for it.
GM has parts made there too. Difference is GM insists on the manufacturing facility have qualified quality control personnel and established QC procedures.
The Dorman ones might be perfectly fine.
I was referring to the post above that said the new unnamed pins were loose in the bushings upon installation.

One of the worst is Dormans transfer case vacuum switches. They haven't fit right for 20 years and they haven't changed them. You'd think after enough complaints they'd look into the problem. I get the impression they just don't care if something fits or not.
 
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