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just got demented
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys, i've searched but haven't found anything regarding my particular situation. what's going on is, i'm trying to use a double flaring tool b/c i'm deleting my ABS. I have flared the lines that i bought from autozone with the fittings i need but when i tried to double flare the lines on the truck, the brake line kept slipping out of the holding clamp deal. any suggestions? i thought it was b/c it was covered in brake fluid and slippery, i cleaned it off and it still slips through the clamp, i have it as tight as it will go i'm confused :dunno:



cliffnotes: (for the lazy asses like me) - the brake line keeps slipping out of the clamp of the double flaring tool everytime i try to double flare it.
 

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the easiest way to do it is to buy pre made mines and just bend they to what you need i do it all the time because i hate flaring any time i do it they end up leaking so i gve up and use pre fabbed lines
 

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just got demented
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Schnarr said:
the easiest way to do it is to buy pre made mines and just bend they to what you need i do it all the time because i hate flaring any time i do it they end up leaking so i gve up and use pre fabbed lines
yeah i thought of that but i didn't want to but that long of lines
 

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The other "BODY" man
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Check out my projects page,,, last couple of pages. I use an adjustable wrench and close it around the butterfly nuts and tighten them down good.!

The teeth on the clamp may be stripped, specially the 5/16 one, cause you use that one a lot.
 

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just got demented
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
fauker said:
Check out my projects page,,, last couple of pages. I use an adjustable wrench and close it around the butterfly nuts and tighten them down good.!

The teeth on the clamp may be stripped, specially the 5/16 one, cause you use that one a lot.
thanks fauker, i checked out your project page, that's kinda how i learned to double flare LOL. but i thought it was stripped but it works fine on the new brake line that i bought, it just keep slipping out of the line on the truck, i cleaned the line really good too, and used a vise grips to tighten the wing nut :dunno:
 

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Dropped At Birth
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136 Posts
fauker said:
Check out my projects page,,, last couple of pages. I use an adjustable wrench and close it around the butterfly nuts and tighten them down good.!

The teeth on the clamp may be stripped, specially the 5/16 one, cause you use that one a lot.
not trying to whore, but did you use your stck proportioning valve?
 

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just got demented
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
WickedSonoma said:
not trying to whore, but did you use your stck proportioning valve?
not sure if you were directing that to me or fauker but...

yes i used my stock prop valve, some s10's don't have a stock prop valve....faukers didn't, he bought one off another s10
 

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Clean the teeth in the clamping tool and if that doesn't work, you either are putting too much line above the surface of the tool or the tool is junk and you need a btter one. There is a line on the double flare die to show you how far above the surface the line should be. You might be able to bent and cut all your lines to length and have the local parts store flare them. One of the local NAPA's does it here. If you can afford it the best flaring tool out there is a Mastercool 71475 I just bought one recently and it beats the other flarers hands down
 

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just got demented
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
poconojoe said:
Clean the teeth in the clamping tool and if that doesn't work, you either are putting too much line above the surface of the tool or the tool is junk and you need a btter one. There is a line on the double flare die to show you how far above the surface the line should be. You might be able to bent and cut all your lines to length and have the local parts store flare them. One of the local NAPA's does it here. If you can afford it the best flaring tool out there is a Mastercool 71475 I just bought one recently and it beats the other flarers hands down
how much did that mastercool cost ya?
 

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Right around $300 with the shipping, You can buy them cheaper, but they don't have all the dies. I bought it from Network Tool Warehouse in Cleveland. I looked all around and they had the best deal ,when you included shipping.
 

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just got demented
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks poconoe - i will check them out if i can't find anything else to work wth the damn one I got.

I'm out of solutions to get this one to stop from slipping
 
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