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ol' bodybuilder
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647 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed the SPAL 40# solenoids and poppers along with almost finishing the door shave this weekend.

Here's some things I noted for anyone else getting ready to do this.

I didn't use the little aluminum cable clamps. I bouht some real small cable clamps (bolt-ons) for like $0.88 @. I'm glad I did this because ti took SEVERAL adjustments to get it to work correctly.

After talking with Jay , I would've attached the solenoids in a different position
. I install them straight up and down, which appeared to be how most did it here - by looking at pics. The lever on the door latch assembly that you attach the cable to is not directly above the solenoid. I was having problems and Jay said they need to be installed so " the pull" is directly in-line, which means the solenoid should have been installed at an angle, towards the lever, so it doesn't pull in a bind.

I had to adjust the cable on each side no less than 6 times to get it to operate correctly. It almost takes the full throw of the plunger to work properly. At a 40# pull, I would not trust those aluminum clamp-ons to secure the cable. I made sure my clamps were on tight.

I used 12g copper wire throughout and wire-nutted everything together with electrical contact paste. I drilled a hole just towards the center of vehicle next to the brake servo. I pulled juice off a block on top of the driver's side fender (under a plastic cover). A large (probably 10g or larger) red wire was bolted to this block (of course it was powered all the time) at this location. Nice connection and no splice needed.

I'm not stupid but the instructions weren't real clear. The receiver needs two power sources (which I provided from wire I just described) - one for the solenoids and another for the receiver. I believe it was the nut and bole on the interior of firewall for the clutch that was a nice bare metal contact that I tied all my grounds to (using plenty of contact paste on the contact area. This way if you have a grounding problem, which I should never have, you don't need to figure out which ground is bad.

I installed the emergency switch in a hidden spot and made a backup cable release for the hood.

For cable release, I went to a bicycle shop and bought a brake handle assembly (bracket and handle) for $4, a brake cable for $4 and a bolt-on cable clamp (not at bike shop) for $0.88. I drilled a "small" hole next to where the factory hood cable attaches to the latch. I found out the hard way what that hole next to the latch is for - DUH. It's for the safety catch on the hood and I had to use 2 nylon cable ties to attach it to the main hood cable to keep it outta the way of this latch.
 

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ol' bodybuilder
Joined
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647 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot about the door poppers. I removed the black plastic hole cover (to remove door handle bolt) and located the poppers in there.

Without the poppers installed, you need to grab the door and pull on it when you activate the solenoid - a real PAIN IN THE ASS. It won't pop open on it's own.

I have a '97 ext cab. On the drivers side, the door WOULD NOT pop open with the popper, even extended all the way out. The area the popper hits on the 3rd door has a "recessed area" and the popper doesn't begin to make any real contact!! For now, I taped a large nut so the poppr will work.

I''ll make up something that looks decent after I paint the truck.
 
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