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I was fortunate enough to be able to spend a lot of time in a high-end performance shop, watching, asking and listening.

The head resurfacing is cheap at a shop.
Putting a head back on without taking the time to clean up the ports/bowls and getting a first rate valve job is a wasted opportunity, IMHO. What GM calls a valve job is an insult to machinists.
I realize it's only a 4-banger, but the increased flow and decreased turbulence will make the engine more efficient - you'll make more power with less fuel.

I've never been able to do a "budget" repair job that involved removing the heads, just can't make myself put anything back on without some effort to make it better.

I genuinely hope it works out good for you and everything seals correctly when you reassemble it. There's not a thing wrong with doing it the way you are - many people have done it successfully. It'll either work fine or it wont, my bet is it'll be just fine. If not, thicker glass and give it another shot. It's not like this is a 15:1 compression race gas deal!

****, people used to dump Bon-Ami down the carb to help rings seal. Most went from "smokes" to "smokes bad" but people kept doing it!
 

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‘95 LS 2.2L Manual
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I was looking for thoughts or comments from back yard mechanics who had done this before, not a bunch of rookies who think they can't do anything for themselves.
The entire premise of a forum is that we’re all DIY-ers with varying levels of experience and skills. We all come here for two reasons, either to gain knowledge or to offer assistance.

Your original post stated that you had watched a YouTube and wanted to try to resurface your head yourself. The video said your glass needed to be AT LEAST 3/4” thick, but you want to use glass that’s not even 20% of the MINIMUM thickness you‘re instructed to use. The surface of glass is naturally very flat and ideal for using as the video instructs. However, in order for the SURFACE of the glass to be flat enough to use as you want, it must be rigid, and that’s why the MINIMUM thickness is 3/4”.

I worked at a hydraulic shop many years ago. My job was to lap stack valves. Both sides of these valves had to be perfectly flat, just like a cylinder head and block. The procedure to make them flat enough AFTER being milled, was to coat the surface of a 2’ x 3’ sheet of glass that was 3” thick with lapping compound and move the valves in a figure-8. If the glass wasn’t 3” thick, it would flex. When it flexes, it forms a “bowl shape” and only the edges make contact with the glass, which in turn transfers the bowl shape to the surface of the valve, or head, or whatever your attempting to make flat.mYou could get away with 1/8” glass if it’s sitting perfectly flat on a perfectly flat, very rigid table.

My point is, if you don’t want to spend the money to have your head machined properly, you certainly won’t want to spend the money for the proper piece of glass or a machine table that’s necessary to do what you want, especially to only use it a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I was fortunate enough to be able to spend a lot of time in a high-end performance shop, watching, asking and listening.

The head resurfacing is cheap at a shop.
Putting a head back on without taking the time to clean up the ports/bowls and getting a first rate valve job is a wasted opportunity, IMHO. What GM calls a valve job is an insult to machinists.
I realize it's only a 4-banger, but the increased flow and decreased turbulence will make the engine more efficient - you'll make more power with less fuel.

I've never been able to do a "budget" repair job that involved removing the heads, just can't make myself put anything back on without some effort to make it better.

I genuinely hope it works out good for you and everything seals correctly when you reassemble it. There's not a thing wrong with doing it the way you are - many people have done it successfully. It'll either work fine or it wont, my bet is it'll be just fine. If not, thicker glass and give it another shot. It's not like this is a 15:1 compression race gas deal!

****, people used to dump Bon-Ami down the carb to help rings seal. Most went from "smokes" to "smokes bad" but people kept doing it!
You have any good links for cleaning the ports / bowls ? I keep hearing about these, but to be honest don't even know what they are lol
 

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Discussion Starter #25
As far as my progress has gone - I did use a 1/4 in 3 ft x 3ft glass mirror I had laying around placing it on a flat workbench. The only problem I had with it is that I tried putting a Clamp on the glass to keep it secure and a piece of the corner broke when I did that, so I used some masking tape and that worked fine. It took sliding the head back and forth over the 120 grit sandpaper 50 times x10 times with breaks in between - about an hour total- to get the warpage within specs. Then I used 220 grit to get it smoother and am thinking I may do a few more passes with 600 grit to get it real smooth.
 
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