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ELTC
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8,391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


this is the only pic of the devious tank ive found and been using for a reference apon my install. it is MeltingPlastic's truck i believe. Ive also been in contact with Jeff Davy who i assume works for devious ? anyway here's some helpful tips for the next guy to use and also some questions i have


so apon installing my fuel pump today i ran into a few problems.
1.) the stock fuel pump assembly for my 01 4.3 with steel tank is too tall for the devious tank:rant:the brand new one i just bought!:rant: no big deal i have an assembly from a 2dr blazer tank which is shorter that i had to put a new pump in and will use with this tank.
2.) the top of the assembly doesnt sit inside the tank and lock in place like on the stock tanks.. this is where mine is sitting right now.
3.) the tank doesnt seem to be made to fit tight up against the cab wall. if its not meant to no biggie but i only way that because if i were to push it flush my filler neck would come right thru thr front bed mount. right now the filler neck is actually right up against the front mount. the filler neck spout on the tank seems to be a bit off on the tank but i can work with what ive got



now if you look at he first pic i posted it looks as if his sat the same way mine does.. not positive but thats what it looks like to me.Ive sent a PM to him asking this question. guess i got impatient and made this thread while i wait

anyway ive got it pretty secure and was gonna throw some lock tite on the 4 screws that hold the plate down onto of the assembly but wont this throw a code?? evap leak or something.. what should i do i dont really want to shave the opening in the tank....

oh and 4th.) just for anyones future reference if your running the SD raised gast tank X member youll have to cut out a portion of the underside so the tank will sit flush. I did notice someone in an old devious tank thread stating they couldnt get their tank up high enough.
youll also have to cut the slope out of your front gas tank strap for the front of the tank to sit flush and flat or the strap wont reach the bolt hole on the frame mount.. i didnt take a pic of that before it was installed today sry..


sry to ramble fellas, i did search this out and came up with a bunch of 04',05' and 06" threads with little pictures/info to guide myself with.....ill get some better overall pics tomorrow once i get my charcoal box finished mounting to the gas tank crossmember
awaits for your replies
 

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Disturbed Image Trucks
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6,636 Posts
Not too many people run these tanks. I would definitely call up Devious and see if they can answer your questions over the phone, or at least point them to look at this thread on the forum. I am sure they have a user account on here but do not post often.

I know it can also be sometimes a challenge to get the stock pump back into a stock tank. The o-ring seal can get stuck and not allow the top of the pump to sit all the way in. I usually lube it up with lithium grease and use a small screw driver to wedge it in. By the looks of your pictures, I would say that the o-ring could be the problem. I would unscrew that bracket and work on getting the pump to sit all the way into the tank before screwing it back on.

As for the filler neck, It looks like MeltingPlastic did not use the origonal one and had someone tig a new one in... If that is the case, I would definitely call up Devious and ask them WTF!?

Hope that helps.
 

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Broken Handed Superman
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6,283 Posts
Gimp, PM me your number and i'll call you on my way home from work tonight it may be easier to discuss then type a lot of the issues i had with mine.

1. Does your fuel pump actually fit into the hole? I had to have devious make mine larger due to the pump for my truck being different then the normal pumps. If the gasket is preventing it from going all the way in, lube it up with a small amount of wd40, it helps. I also had to get longer screws to force the pump into the tank all the way.

2. yes the tank was not designed to fit flush against the wall from what i know, but i was able to do it due to my modified filler neck and the fact that i have the smaller neck so i had my tank sent back and had jeff modify it as needed

3. Get blue loctite that is designed for fuel/petroleum. I used that when i put my fittings in the tank that i added for the evap. I get a SES light but thats due to my gas cap and have always gotten before i added the devious tank.

Yes i had to modify the raised tank member. It sucked but whatever it works!

Oh and if your running a 5-link like me(or 3 link with the wishbone mounted to the crossmember), make sure to add some rubber between the tank and crossmember. You'll see that the wishbone rubs on the tank and could potentially cause a problem so you'll need to space it out.

and i never got a PM from you
 

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ELTC
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8,391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Gimp, PM me your number and i'll call you on my way home from work tonight it may be easier to discuss then type a lot of the issues i had with mine.

1. Does your fuel pump actually fit into the hole? I had to have devious make mine larger due to the pump for my truck being different then the normal pumps. If the gasket is preventing it from going all the way in, lube it up with a small amount of wd40, it helps. I also had to get longer screws to force the pump into the tank all the way.

2. yes the tank was not designed to fit flush against the wall from what i know, but i was able to do it due to my modified filler neck and the fact that i have the smaller neck so i had my tank sent back and had jeff modify it as needed

3. Get blue loctite that is designed for fuel/petroleum. I used that when i put my fittings in the tank that i added for the evap. I get a SES light but thats due to my gas cap and have always gotten before i added the devious tank.

Yes i had to modify the raised tank member. It sucked but whatever it works!

Oh and if your running a 5-link like me(or 3 link with the wishbone mounted to the crossmember), make sure to add some rubber between the tank and crossmember. You'll see that the wishbone rubs on the tank and could potentially cause a problem so you'll need to space it out.

and i never got a PM from you
ya my bad on the PM bro i was writing it and then jumped to the classifieds without hitting send. DOH!

1.) the entire assembly and pump slide in the tank fine but the top of my fuel assembly does not slip into the tank like it would on a stock tank.. the hole in tank isnt big enough so its sitting up higher as a result. Its not the rubber gasket holding it up its the actual plastic of the cap on the assembly.. i think im gonna try and shave it a little to get a better fit

Dave i ppushed that lil bastard down all the way and it wouldnt compress enough. felt like i was close to breaking it but no big deal really seeing i had the blazer assembly. It fit good, hit the bottom of tank and then compressed quite a bit so i dont for see me having an issue. ill just add the other one to my parts bin :haha: currently over flowing as it is.

2.) as for the filler neck location it isnt much of a big deal. mine sits right up against the front bed mount. ill just have to finagle it into place and get a good bolt to mount the top of the neck when the bed goes back on

3.) ive got blue loctite so im set but what was your reasoning for running your evap the way you did.. all my lines went back together just the same as stock so when i saw what you did i became curious as hell

4.) im not running a 5 link but i am using the 3 link with wishbone. i have no clearance issues so i think im good but yes i was thinking about whether i should put some rubber in between my tank and X member.

got everything done today. small tank but looks pretty cool i guess. I was oriinally told this was a 15gal tank and only paid $100 bucks for it. found out later on and after i already cut up my crossmember that its only 10 gallons:rant:. i redrilled the holes higher for my front strap when i had the stock tank in and now with this tank theres no way im dragging thru it unless i hit something :haha:
couple pics
hobart plasma made quick work of this

charcoal box located on front of gas tank X member. looks like it would hit driveshaft but clears by a couple inches at a lay

you can clearly see in this pic how much further forward my filler neck is compared to melting plastic's tank..
 

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ELTC
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8,391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Now that I look again, it looks like the evap and a bunch of hoses will be in the way as well.
why would the evap or any of the hoses be of any concern? everything is below level with the top of the crossmember
and ya the little control box for the evap was a bit of a gander. totally just went and did it without looking at the bed. it is below level with the top of the crossmember and doesnt quite completely block off the bed mount but i get what ur saying. ill know for sure today and if it is its only metal, cut it off and try something else right
 

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Broken Handed Superman
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6,283 Posts
Gimp,

heres some things i wanted to bring up to you yesterday on the phone:

1) Your fuel pump. Didn't you have a thread about breaking off one of the connections and are now using a blazer pump? If so, this may be part of your problem. From what i see and what you describe, your new pump is basically like the pump i have(wider+you don't have a crush ring you have a seal that goes around the entire pump housing and under the lip too correct?(from what i saw in the pictures at least)) If thats the case, yes you will have the issue i had were Jeff had to make the hole larger for the pump to fit in correctly. As i mentioned, i also had to get longer screws to hold the pump down because the supplied screws were too small due to the thickness of that seal causing the pump to sit about a 1/8" higher than flush as you noted.

2. You don't need the extra fittings i have installed due to how your gas tank vents stock. I have just a 1 1/4" filler neck while you have a 1 1/2" and 1/4"? vent all in your neck. My system for the 02-03 trucks(with no explanation i've ever found explains why some of these years have this) doesn't vent like yours. It had all types of other connections that i needed to complete to make the system function correctly. This is also why my filler neck is in a different spot. After i installed it originally, i told Jeff how far i wanted the new port from the edge of the tank and it worked perfectly.(though i would have liked the fuel pump hole to be relocated farther back too but that didn't happen)

3. I noticed you crossmember with the 3link has different tabs than mine so no you wont need to run the rubber like i had to, though its probably a good idea. If you look at my crossmember, the tabs hang below it, yours appear to not so you wouldn't have any issues.

4. I agree with pat on the clearance issues at least for the purge vale, don't want to crush that thing when you put the bed back on

5. Yea the 10/11 gallons whatever it is sucks since you can onlny drive about 150-170 miles (at least with my 4.3) but it is what it is. I have no fears whatsoever of dragging my tank so that peace of mind is nice
 

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ELTC
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8,391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Gimp,

heres some things i wanted to bring up to you yesterday on the phone:

1) Your fuel pump. Didn't you have a thread about breaking off one of the connections and are now using a blazer pump? If so, this may be part of your problem. From what i see and what you describe, your new pump is basically like the pump i have(wider+you don't have a crush ring you have a seal that goes around the entire pump housing and under the lip too correct?(from what i saw in the pictures at least)) If thats the case, yes you will have the issue i had were Jeff had to make the hole larger for the pump to fit in correctly. As i mentioned, i also had to get longer screws to hold the pump down because the supplied screws were too small due to the thickness of that seal causing the pump to sit about a 1/8" higher than flush as you noted.

2. You don't need the extra fittings i have installed due to how your gas tank vents stock. I have just a 1 1/4" filler neck while you have a 1 1/2" and 1/4"? vent all in your neck. My system for the 02-03 trucks(with no explanation i've ever found explains why some of these years have this) doesn't vent like yours. It had all types of other connections that i needed to complete to make the system function correctly. This is also why my filler neck is in a different spot. After i installed it originally, i told Jeff how far i wanted the new port from the edge of the tank and it worked perfectly.(though i would have liked the fuel pump hole to be relocated farther back too but that didn't happen)

3. I noticed you crossmember with the 3link has different tabs than mine so no you wont need to run the rubber like i had to, though its probably a good idea. If you look at my crossmember, the tabs hang below it, yours appear to not so you wouldn't have any issues.

4. I agree with pat on the clearance issues at least for the purge vale, don't want to crush that thing when you put the bed back on

5. Yea the 10/11 gallons whatever it is sucks since you can onlny drive about 150-170 miles (at least with my 4.3) but it is what it is. I have no fears whatsoever of dragging my tank so that peace of mind is nice
ya man i did have a thread bout that. ive got both assemblies here now. the blazer setup and the stock setup for my 01 steel tank. the stock unit wouldnt compress enough so i used the blazer one. theyre exactly the same top to bottom except for the blazer assembly is a tad bit shorter. either way it shouldnt matter which one i use cuz they both bottom out inside the tank..
im going to try to stay away from reeming out the hole on the tank. if i have to ohwell but for now im going to get the dremel out and try to shave enough plastic on the top of the pump assembly to fit it all the way flush in the tank. it only needs to sink an 1/8" further down so im pretty sure i can get it there. and ya i got u on the screws, if i need bigger,stronger or just better hardware for mine ive got plenty of stock in my shop to come up with something.

2.) great thanks for clearing up why your evap is the way it is..makes total sense now

3.) yup got plenty of clearance

4.) heres a pic of the purge valve. i only have the 4 corner bed mounts on my bed so theres nothing to hit the purge valve. it sits under the top level edge on the crossmember. same with charcoal box. as for the lines they will all be fastened to the crossmember before the bed goes on

5.) yep i also have the 4.3 with a test pipe in place of cat and a spintech muffler dumping out before the axle.. gas mileage is gonna blow ass but atleast ill have peace of mind that while im dragging the rails off her my tank is completely out of harms way

 

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Audi Tech
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2,487 Posts
Did you put any rubber between the tank straps and the tank? Or between any places the tank touches? If that loosens up at all, the steel will definatly win over aluminum.
 

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ELTC
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8,391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
edit.. never mind.
haha.. i feel u tho, the way things looked from the first batch of pictures inclined u to think the way you did. figured id get some better pics up today to show everything clears real well.

yes today piece of rubber were inserted in between the X member and tank as well as the front strap and tank
 

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ELTC
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8,391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
alright guys back to the original topic for a minute. i got everythng done today and have a couple problems i need to run by you.

1.) my gas gauge inside the truck reads empty but i just put 8 gallons of fuel in the tank today.. could the fuel level sensor thing inside the pump assembly be bad? im using the blazer pump i got from a forum member so i nave no way to know for sure. I knew the pump in it was bad when he shipped it to me so i swapped a good one into it right before i started this tank gas tank project
2.) had a really hard time getting her started today. hasnt ran in almost a yr but it was cranking good, good spark and air as well. It only started after i dumped a little gas into the throttle body and once it was running it ran real strong..
but if you turn it off and go to start again it wont turn over again without adding gas to the throttle body??

when i pulled the pump assembly there was def fuel in the lines, pump was def running properly but it seemed as if it just couldnt get enough gas to the front.
possible the Fuel filter??? plans to check it tomorrow am but id like to hear what you guys think.

and 3rd question is a little off topic but might be relevant idk.. what does the large green 30amp fue under the hood go to? mines fried so i need to get another in the morning
 
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