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94 s10 blazer 4.3 vortec 2nd. The cruise control was deleted when i got the truck. But the hose amd pigtail are still there. Plus the switch on the pedal. No matter what I have fixed and repaired. It doesmt
Shift right. I don’t think the TC ever locks up. Rebuilt tranny And i can still feel issues. It’s something electrical. And i cant figure it out. I chased it down to maybe the switch at the brake pedal maybe cause the computer to shift wrong since the cruise switch isn’t activated. Sorry if this went a strange direction. I just haven’t found anyone actually removing the entire cruise control. Bracke, module , pedal switch. And what issues they had
 

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I see where your head is going with this, but on that old of a Blazer not sure it works that way.
I know that later trucks needed a 12V input from that switch for the PCM to be happy. On the later trucks it's a NC switch.
Doubt an OBD1 vehicles system is that sophisticated. I though those gen 1's used a vacuum vent style switch to turn off the cruise.
More apt to be something with the brake switch. Get that TCC working. Over time the extra heat generated by not ever locking up can damage the trans.
 

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I had a 92 full size that the TC would not lock up the last few months before an ls swap. During my ls swap in it I figured out that my brake switch had went bad not sending the signal needed to the transmission. You might try changing your brake switch on the pedal and see if it fixes the lock up.
 

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You can test to see if the converter is actually locking up by driving at about 45 mph constant and just lightly apply the brakes you should hear and see(if you have a tach) the rpm raise up about 200-300 RPM then lower back down once you are off the brake pedal.
 
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Ok. Follow along:
In the later 2nd Gens, there are two switches on the brake pedal. One for the brake lights, and one for the cruise control. The cruise one also has a vacuum hose.
There are a total of 3 wiring connectors, two on the brake light switch, one on the cruise switch.
Remove the connector from the brake switch that has 2 gry wires in it. This is for the cruise control, and can be left disconnected.
There is a connector with a purple and pink/wht wire on the Cruise switch. This is the torque converter clutch. Move this connector from the cruise switch to the brake light switch cavity that had the gry wires in it.

Here is a pic of the cruise switch with the TCC connector still in it. This is the connector to move to the brake light switch.

Nothing to it, if you know what needs to be done:

Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Vehicle Cable Automotive exterior
 

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10+ 1st Gen 4.3's
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The ones I'm familiar with. 1988 to 1994 4.3. At least ones with electronic speedometers. I know almost nothing about the 82 to 87, other than I did a head gasket job in an 87 2.8.
 

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The ones I'm familiar with. 1988 to 1994 4.3. At least ones with electronic speedometers. I know almost nothing about the 82 to 87, other than I did a head gasket job in an 87 2.8.
With the exception of the '94, those are 1st gen. My '96 has a single switch with no vacuum.
 

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I see where your head is going with this, but on that old of a Blazer not sure it works that way.
I know that later trucks needed a 12V input from that switch for the PCM to be happy. On the later trucks it's a NC switch.
Doubt an OBD1 vehicles system is that sophisticated. I though those gen 1's used a vacuum vent style switch to turn off the cruise.
More apt to be something with the brake switch. Get that TCC working. Over time the extra heat generated by not ever locking up can damage the trans.
GM cruz dump was brake sw And redundant vac release.
 

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With the exception of the '94, those are 1st gen. My '96 has a single switch with no vacuum.
100% correct-o-mundo. I corrected my post. Dyslexia is a bitch. Been living with it for 50 years, and the older I get the more intrusive it gets.

The all-electric servo Cruise controls are an improvement over the earlier vacuum-actuated systems when it comes to speed-holding ability. I've seen threads that discuss, and even attempted a conversion myself (not completely successful, so I abandoned the attempt.) from vacuum to electronic. I added an electric vacuum pump and stand-alone vacuum ball only for the cruise in my Typhoon. It holds speed very consistently with this modification.
 
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