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I'm asking about what would have been in that empty space - the D20 Cruise module. It is possible the connector for that module is in the vicinity even if the module isn't.

It looks like this:
353155
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I just finished checking the original S10 wire harness I pulled from the truck and... no connector.
I have one, as a "pigtail" I bought to use if I decided to install CC.

I guess the CCM looks like this (pic), but I don't have one of these either.

Thanks...
Camera accessory Digital camera Film camera Camera Reflex camera
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Fuse Block Connector C1 will have the CHMSL output on pin F11. From the factory Chevy split this between the Cruise Control Module and the third brake light. I passed this over to the Engine Harness using the C101 connector.

That's what I would do. It's a different circuit than the PCM - C1 (33), so I don't suggest combining the two functions.
Somehow... I missed this...sorry.
I have enough lead on this wire to run it to the C1 block. Should I just do that and join it with C1-F11?

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Fuse Block Connector C1 will have the CHMSL output on pin F11. From the factory Chevy split this between the Cruise Control Module and the third brake light. I passed this over to the Engine Harness using the C101 connector.

That's what I would do. It's a different circuit than the PCM - C1 (33), so I don't suggest combining the two functions.
RE: red text above,
When the C1 (33) PPL wire exits the C101 connector, where is it supposed to connect to? (just checkin')...

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It goes from PCM-C1 (33) to C101 (E) on the engine harness side. On the body harness side it goes from C101 (E) to a Splice in the harness. That splice ties together the C101 circuits, a circuit to the ABS module, and the Brake Switch Pin C.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
The Brake Switch Pin D is "hot" from I/p fuse (22) that is connected to the Brake Switch Pin C, and when the brake is pressed, the Brake Switch Pin D "power" is disconnected from the Brake Switch Pin C going through the C101 (E) to PCM-C1 (33),

Right?

Assuming that I managed to get that correct, I don't have the ABS anymore, but I don't see that will cause a problem.
Is that right or wrong?

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That's how that circuit works, yeah.

ABS removal shouldn't affect it. How did you remove the ABS? Cut or remove any wires? The ABS does use the same circuit for its brake switch input, but if you didn't touch the ABS wiring all should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Well, I made all the changes, buttoned it up and ... same U0107 code, as if I did nothing.
I'm starting a new thread - DBC conversion - 'cause I'm thinking of switching it to DBC, as I'm just not smart enough to figure the DBW out.

If that won't work, I'll pull my engine/trans and sell the "roller" .

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Before you convert over to DBC have you tried a DBW reset? When I first hooked my DBW up it would only idle and stall. I found I had a sensor 5v and lo reference switched at the pedal. After I corrected them it still did the same thing.
On some obscure RV site while doing research for my issue I found mention of a DBW reset procedure. You turn the key on, engine off and slowly cycle the pedal all the way 3 times then shut the key off. Next time I started it, it fired right up and the throttle worked. Might have been a fluke, but it worked.
What happened after that you don't want to hear. I should have the replacement engine going soon. I got it bolted in today. But at least my DBW works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I tried the "reset" process and there was some improvement. It would start and run, but not every time. I could tap the throttle when it was about to die and it would pick back up and run a bit longer. I could keep it running by doing this, but it still has problems and did not respond when the pedal was depressed.

I had my wife watch the TB plate and it opens slightly when the key is turned on and closes when the key is turned off, doesn't open with the key "on", engine off, and the pedal depressed.

AND, I picked up a P0740 & P0785 error codes to boot! Not sure what I'll do about them. They indicate trans. problems, but everything is new.

One step forward and two steps back!

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Us old guys have been around long enough to know that's how you get things done. Just keep plugging away, you'll get it figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Anybody have experience handling these (P0740- Torq Conv Clutch Circ MalFunc, (cause: Wiring, TCC solenoid, ECM/PCM/TCM)
or (P0785 Shift/Timing Solenoid Error, cause: Wiring, shift/timing solenoid, ECM/PCM!TCM)) codes?

You tube was no help. I don't have a clue.

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Are you sure your brake pedal position switch is getting 12V to the PCM and TAC when you have your foot off the brake? Neither will function properly with out that 12V input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
My 4L60 pinout is shown at the right in attached pic.
The pinout shown at left shows the "S" & "T" pins going to PCM C1-79 & C2-42, respectively.

Is this telling me that the two error codes indicate that I should have these additional pins? It sounds like it to me, but I did not modify the trans connection, and of course, I don't know...

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If you have a 4L80E connector some how, those used 2 less wires. Could be your issue.
Notice on the wiring diagram that a couple pins use different locations also.
Click the pic to see it bigger
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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
If you have a 4L80E connector some how, those used 2 less wires. Could be your issue.
Notice on the wiring diagram that a couple pins use different locations also.
Click the pic to see it bigger
Yup, it looks like I need to add the two wires!
I totally ignored what transmission the donor truck had, but it was a 2004 silverado 2500, so it probably had a 4L8x something. But it was a 4wd, so I didn't even check it out.

OK, now I need a part number for the connector pins on the transmission side, please.

Thanks...
 
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