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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pretty sure I will be needing a fuel pump soon. My 4.3L s10 is an Xtreme, so there is plenty of corrosion underneath it and it is probably extra work to remove an xtreme's bed (though I cannot confirm it)
My bed floor is not in great shape and will need replacement eventually anyways, so i am entertaining the famed fuel pump hatch cut...
My question is: what do people do with the fuel pump hole after replacing the pump? no one says what they do after the fix. i have seen plenty of chevy trucks rolling around with the hole but i was just thinking that covering it back up would be ideal...

i am thinking of taking the cutout piece and tack-welding a piece on top of it so it cant fall back thru the hole, then just gluing/sealing it back into place... pry it on back up if/when the time comes...

Thanks
 

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Pretty sure I will be needing a fuel pump soon. My 4.3L s10 is an Xtreme, so there is plenty of corrosion underneath it and it is probably extra work to remove an xtreme's bed (though I cannot confirm it)
My bed floor is not in great shape and will need replacement eventually anyways, so i am entertaining the famed fuel pump hatch cut...
My question is: what do people do with the fuel pump hole after replacing the pump? no one says what they do after the fix. i have seen plenty of chevy trucks rolling around with the hole but i was just thinking that covering it back up would be ideal...

i am thinking of taking the cutout piece and tack-welding a piece on top of it so it cant fall back thru the hole, then just gluing/sealing it back into place... pry it on back up if/when the time comes...

Thanks
Being an Xtreme doesn't equate to more rust, and it's no more work to remove it than any other S10 bed. Some guys just cut out a patch from another bed a little bigger than the hole. Closed cell foam for sealing, and Dzus fasteners or screws to attach it.
 

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time to get cereal
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Xtremes around here tend to rust out thanks to water and salt being trapped between the plastic and metal.
 

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cut carefully and you can add hinges and a latch for future use:cool:
 

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Tilting the bed isn't hard or tricky. Just don't damage the wiring by leaving it all connected. Simply unplug it under the tail light and take out the ground screw. It'll look like you knew what you were doing when finished. Not shade tree hacked.
By the time you add in the additional work to cut the hole then make the patch it'll probably take less time to do it right. And no fabrication skills or tools needed.
 

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Why not just weld the whole thing back in a grind it down, That is what I would do if I was going to cut a hole in the bed. but if I was going to do it I just would move the bed out of the way...
 

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Cut a good size piece from a donor bed then cut an appropriate size hole for the pump then put hinges on or just use small screws to cover
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Xtremes around here tend to rust out thanks to water and salt being trapped between the plastic and metal.
we never took the xtreme through the automatic car wash for fear of plastic panels getting lost or damaged, thus the underside got a slight bit of neglect... it was actually fine until they started using brine on the roads, which was also around the time the truck was relegated to back-up status and spent more time parked between uses. the right cab corner and under the bed got it the worst. we never had problems with rust between the plastic and metal but i have seen it on others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i think the problems with xtreme bed & fuel pump R/R are as follows:
if you totally remove the bed you will need to flip it upside down or remove all the plastic skirt panels when you set it down because it likely will break the plastic panels if it sits on them. flipping it over will likely require rolling it or a group of people and there is a plastic piece over the wheel well that will see pressure if you roll it... so overall you will likely need to R/R the plastic skirt too if you remove the bed.

tilting the bed rearwards or sideways has been poorly reviewed with regular non-xtreme beds... the xtreme will likely require plastic skirt removal to tilt too because it hangs down and takes up extra inches and most people are saying the clearance on a tilt procedure for regular bed are already tight.

in terms of welding it back up bear in mind you are right over the fuel tank/pump. cutting it is dangerous enough. i like the idea of cutting a larger piece from another bed... that will match the groove profile. just throw a bunch of sealer on the back of the patch and it should be on there good enough for heavy use but still removable if you need to go back in.

i have heard of people using wet fireproof insulation batting jammed in between the fuel tank and the bed when cutting the hole. that may work for welding it back up too if thats your plan...probably just a couple bucks for a piece of fiberglass or the treated denim house insulation.
 

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i think the problems with xtreme bed & fuel pump R/R are as follows:
if you totally remove the bed you will need to flip it upside down or remove all the plastic skirt panels when you set it down because it likely will break the plastic panels if it sits on them. flipping it over will likely require rolling it or a group of people and there is a plastic piece over the wheel well that will see pressure if you roll it... so overall you will likely need to R/R the plastic skirt too if you remove the bed.

tilting the bed rearwards or sideways has been poorly reviewed with regular non-xtreme beds... the xtreme will likely require plastic skirt removal to tilt too because it hangs down and takes up extra inches and most people are saying the clearance on a tilt procedure for regular bed are already tight.

in terms of welding it back up bear in mind you are right over the fuel tank/pump. cutting it is dangerous enough. i like the idea of cutting a larger piece from another bed... that will match the groove profile. just throw a bunch of sealer on the back of the patch and it should be on there good enough for heavy use but still removable if you need to go back in.

i have heard of people using wet fireproof insulation batting jammed in between the fuel tank and the bed when cutting the hole. that may work for welding it back up too if thats your plan...probably just a couple bucks for a piece of fiberglass or the treated denim house insulation.
You can always set it on a couple of saw horses, or use a chain hoist to suspend it while you make the change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You can always set it on a couple of saw horses, or use a chain hoist to suspend it while you make the change.
true enough. i think we are going to cut if it comes to it though. we can probably get away with a less expensive pump too since the hole will make the 2nd R/R a breeze...
 

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Tilting the bed isn't hard or tricky. Just don't damage the wiring by leaving it all connected. Simply unplug it under the tail light and take out the ground screw. It'll look like you knew what you were doing when finished. Not shade tree hacked.
By the time you add in the additional work to cut the hole then make the patch it'll probably take less time to do it right. And no fabrication skills or tools needed.
 

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And when you reassemble, anti-seize compound on the fastener threads will be your friend sometine in the future.
 

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Literally took 10 minutes to get the bed off my 2003 for the fuel pump, it is a long bed. And that is also the perfect time to start tackling any rust and start rust-reforming.

If you actually care about the truck do it right.
 

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Pretty sure I will be needing a fuel pump soon. My 4.3L s10 is an Xtreme, so there is plenty of corrosion underneath it and it is probably extra work to remove an xtreme's bed (though I cannot confirm it)
My bed floor is not in great shape and will need replacement eventually anyways, so i am entertaining the famed fuel pump hatch cut...
My question is: what do people do with the fuel pump hole after replacing the pump? no one says what they do after the fix. i have seen plenty of chevy trucks rolling around with the hole but i was just thinking that covering it back up would be ideal...

i am thinking of taking the cutout piece and tack-welding a piece on top of it so it cant fall back thru the hole, then just gluing/sealing it back into place... pry it on back up if/when the time comes...

Thanks
I have a 1999 Xtreme I found that it was easier to just drop the tank and replace the fuel pump out of the truck. Plus you can reach in side and wipe out any crud inside and check the green ball for cracks or holes that green ball keeps the fuel stored up, and helps rust from forming.
 
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