[shadow19]

I wanted to share the specs of making a custom tool that is similar to the factory tool for working on lower control arms and springs. The factory tool is adjustable and much taller. The factory tool is a Kent Moore J-23028-8. I made this strictly for my s10 so it is not adjustable. Mine is a 2001 2wd. I don’t know if there are measurement differences in other years around my age.

C channel: 3 x 6.0# (3 x 1.596 x 0.356) close to 3/8" thick, 12” long

Flat bar 3/8" thick 2"x5". Bent 90 deg so cut side is 3" tall from the C channel surface and 2" long on the face of the channel, and welded. It is centered so it allowed 1/2" of space on both sides of the flat bar for welds.

Solid rod 1 3/16" 3" long

Hole cut in flat bar 1.75" dia. Widest point of circle is positioned 1/4" from top edge of flat bar. This allows a small area to act as a cup and is past the center line of the bushing.

After flat bar is bent, it is welded to C channel. I was going to use an angle iron but company said it would be too difficult to make the hole in angle iron so they said to use flat and have it bent.

Rod is welded underneath C channel for use in a pump jack. This diameter is just right for my Craftsmen jack and is a snug fit so no wobbling can happen. The length happens to be the same width of the jack over so it is balanced.

I have only briefly tested it. I was lifting the entire truck up when jacking slowing, watching the bushings. I didn’t see the truck lift off the jack stands a little bit. I did not see any deflection at all on this custom made piece. It should make it much more easy and safer to lower the control arms and remove the springs. This is how the GM service manual states to service the control arms and springs. They show to lower/raise on the control arm bushing area, not on the ball joint side when installing the springs.

I did it the “easy” way and lifted on the ball joint area side and didn’t see my springs didn’t go into the upper seats properly so they need to come back out now. (Haven’t driven it as I’m still replacing items) I decided to make a correct tool to do it safer.

I'm sharing the measurements so if anyone else needs it to make their own tool they have it.

 

[hit_4_show]

Thank you for the specs and photos. I have only removed/installed front springs on an S-truck once, and I absolutely hated it. That was a 96 (2.2L man trans RWD reg cab) w/ ostensibly stock, Z83 suspension. The front vehicle weight was not enough to compress the front springs, so your tool would not work on that vehicle unless weight is added to the front of the vehicle, or it is somehow bound to the ground or the jack. I understand what you are saying about seating the top of the springs in the pocket, and I made that mistake myself. Difficult to see up there, and darn scary when using a spring compressor in which you are not very confident.

 

[DougE]

How does this fit to the control arm? (Picture please!)

 

[shadow19]

Thank you for the specs and photos. I have only removed/installed front springs on an S-truck once, and I absolutely hated it. That was a 96 (2.2L man trans RWD reg cab) w/ ostensibly stock, Z83 suspension. The front vehicle weight was not enough to compress the front springs, so your tool would not work on that vehicle unless weight is added to the front of the vehicle, or it is somehow bound to the ground or the jack. I understand what you are saying about seating the top of the springs in the pocket, and I made that mistake myself. Difficult to see up there, and darn scary when using a spring compressor in which you are not very confident.

My manual doesn’t specify between motor sizes so I’m not sure how the process is for the lighter motor size.

I hate the spring compressors. One I got was too long to fit good and the other one uses a wide blade type lower fork. I had to remove the spring 3 times as it didn’t want to go into the seat on the top. I was doing it opposite of how the directions say and how most people seem to do it. By having the pivot bolts installed and lowering/lifting from the ball joint side. I was being careful as I know they can release tension. I had to place it in and remove it 3 times in a row. On the 3rd time taking it out and placing it on the ground slowly, the compressor tool slipped causing it to release tension.

I was holding the spring on the outside of the coils and moving slowly. I guess tipping it sideways to place it on the ground multiple times caused the tool to slip. The compressor tool nicked the tip of my finger when it spun and even though I had thick gloves on it fractured the tip of my finger.

I didn’t want to get my head anywhere near the opening so I was trying to feel for it to seat right by holding the spring by hand and placing it into position. I decided to just make the factory type tool now to make it safer to install it.

 

[shadow19]

How does this fit to the control arm? (Picture please!)

The tool is positioned at the 2 pivot bolts/control arm bushing area on the control arm. I'll attach some pics from the manual.

Once holding the tension, you remove the pivot bolts and lower the control arm to allow removal of the spring. Many people, myself included, lower the control arm from the ball joint side. That is not how the factory does it. That way causes a swing affect so it can be difficult to get the spring back in correctly. Lowering from the back side allows a more straight angle so the spring can be put back in easier.

 

[DougE]

Wow. So rather than removing the spindle for spring removal, you are leaving the ball joints connected and unfastening the lower control arm from the chassis?

 

[Rhotpursuit]

If it's a ZQ8 truck, or has the springs replaced with ZQ8 springs, getting the springs back in place isn't a problem.

 

[manbearpig]

If it's a ZQ8 truck, or has the springs replaced with ZQ8 springs, getting the springs back in place isn't a problem.

I agree, with lowering springs I've always just popped them in with a pry bar. Didn't work out so well when putting stock springs back into my '01. I did it this way, but with just a jack.

 

[hit_4_show]

My manual doesn’t specify between motor sizes so I’m not sure how the process is for the lighter motor size.

I hate the spring compressors. One I got was too long to fit good and the other one uses a wide blade type lower fork. I had to remove the spring 3 times as it didn’t want to go into the seat on the top. I was doing it opposite of how the directions say and how most people seem to do it. By having the pivot bolts installed and lowering/lifting from the ball joint side. I was being careful as I know they can release tension. I had to place it in and remove it 3 times in a row. On the 3rd time taking it out and placing it on the ground slowly, the compressor tool slipped causing it to release tension.

I was holding the spring on the outside of the coils and moving slowly. I guess tipping it sideways to place it on the ground multiple times caused the tool to slip. The compressor tool nicked the tip of my finger when it spun and even though I had thick gloves on it fractured the tip of my finger.

I didn’t want to get my head anywhere near the opening so I was trying to feel for it to seat right by holding the spring by hand and placing it into position. I decided to just make the factory type tool now to make it safer to install it.

The auto mechanic performing the front end alignment on my mentioned vehicle stated, at home, he compresses S-series truck springs between the lower control arm and frame using threaded rod where a shock would mount. I have thought about a refinement using thrust washers and something with more thread engagement than a simple nut. I wonder about the largest diameter rod that would fit.

My internal spring compressor let go also, and the right side of my left thumb was turned to mush. I remember initially hesitating to take my nitrile glove off that hand because I was not certain the thumb was still attached. After almost 2-years, it looks mostly normal, but the nail grows a little misshapen now.

 

[shadow19]

Wow. So rather than removing the spindle for spring removal, you are leaving the ball joints connected and unfastening the lower control arm from the chassis?

Yes, that is the way GM does it. I did watch a video of some service techs using the factory tool. It appears very smooth as it lowers in a straight line. Whereas tipping the ball joint end up/down creates an arc affect so you are binding the spring if it’s not compressed enough. This method you don’t have to compress the spring.

I have seen some pics where people use a longer shock and have it connected to act as a safety catch or use a long threaded rod where the shock goes so if the spring was to move, it can’t jump out.

From what I saw in the video, the few inches of movement going down doesn’t cause any issues.

 

[shadow19]

If it's a ZQ8 truck, or has the springs replaced with ZQ8 springs, getting the springs back in place isn't a problem.

I actually don’t know which springs I have. The previous owner messed with everything on the truck. It should be ZQ8, but I doubt it.

I have had problems getting the springs in and seating. As tall as the springs are, you can see (using the method of lifting on the ball joint side and leaving the pivot bolts attached) that the arc of the travel move causes the spring to bind when going in. I thought I had them after multiple times putting them in but 1 side missed the upper cup and is on the edge of it.

I’m going to try the GM way and see if it works out better for me.

 

[shadow19]

The auto mechanic performing the front end alignment on my mentioned vehicle stated, at home, he compresses S-series truck springs between the lower control arm and frame using threaded rod where a shock would mount. I have thought about a refinement using thrust washers and something with more thread engagement than a simple nut. I wonder about the largest diameter rod that would fit.

My internal spring compressor let go also, and the right side of my left thumb was turned to mush. I remember initially hesitating to take my nitrile glove off that hand because I was not certain the thumb was still attached. After almost 2-years, it looks mostly normal, but the nail grows a little misshapen now.

O crap. That is way worse then what happened to me. I have seen pics of compressors snapping off or the hooks snapping. I really don’t like the spring compressors I have. I have yet to find one that is a good fit for the dia of the coil. Mine likes to slip constantly.

When I got my finger pinched, I thought it was just the nail as the tip was all white. It didn’t even get color back for about 5 hours. Then went black. The x ray showed 3 lines separated and they said it fractured the tip. I was holding the outside of the spring to try and make sure no fingers would be in the way. The square head of the compressor tool slipped/spun about 2” on the coil and just hit my finger holding from the outside. If my fingers would have been inside the coil, It probably could have taken a finger off.

I do see online where people use a compressor or a long threaded rod to go though the coil. On the video I say from GM, they didn’t have anything in the coil. It looks like the spring only goes a few inches before the load is off. The C shape on the tool allows the control arm to rotate in it so the spring is staying level as it is lowering. I wonder if just leaving the shock attached on the bottom end would work the same way as a safety item. If the chock would pull down out of the upper mounting hole, the coil would still not be able to jump out if something happens.

 

[shadow19]

How does this fit to the control arm? (Picture please!)

Here is a pic showing it on a control arm. It is upside down sitting like this so this would be a view looking from underneath if it was on the truck. The other pic is what the factory tool looks like.

 

[shadow19]

I went and used this tool and it was very under-whelming. I was nervous and decided I would not put a rod though the shock hole. I removed the shock completely. I jacked this tool into place and put just a little bit of pressure on the control arm. It was enough I could unscrew the pivot bolts all the way out. The control arm only twitched about 1/64 of an inch when the bolts came out. Probably seating into the tool. I already had the steering linkage disconnected and the sway bar disconnected.

I lowered the jack slowly and there was not even any sound. No bang or anything. The spring was then just loose and laying at an angle. I could just lift up the spring and take it out. I was expecting the worst and this made it sooo much easier.

So no spring compressors needed and no need to run a rod thought the shock opening. It just lowered smoothly with no problems.

I will try and get a video when I re-assemble it. The bolts I got to replace the pivot bolts are wrong. Dorman 13505 Control Arm Bolt Kit is NOT for the S10. I just ordered 2 sets as they only show a pic of the 1 long and 1 short bolt. It comes with 8 of each. So I bought an extra set I didn’t need.

It claims to fit all models of S10 from 1994-2003 (mines a 2001 RWD) The bolts are not even close to what was on the truck. The smaller bolts are too short to even reach through the bushings. The larger bolts can reach through, but are too big in dia to go through the smaller bushing side so I can’t use them for both bushings. Don’t waste your time on these as they are completely different then what is needed.

Pics mocked up using old control arm.

 

[manbearpig]

Taking it apart is the easy part... You definitely don't need a special tool for that, just a jack.

 

[oldeerslayer]

Dorman strikes again. If they make any part that fits w/o some modification I'd be surprised. Or as in your case many don't fit at all. How they continue to sell their junk parts year after year is something to ponder. You'd think they have gone out of business years ago. I don't believe anybody working for that company has the slightest idea what the words "quality control" mean.
The only other company I found comparable is Walmart. If they have a product that sells real well they either continually run out of it, stop carrying it or change vendors so that it no longer resembles the original and then raise the price.
Both companies get nearly all their products from you know where. Hard to control quality when a lot of the labor is either prisoners or children.

 

[hit_4_show]

Notes for my 1996 RWD Sonoma show the following control arm fasteners.

• Upper control arm nuts: M12-1.75
• Lower control arm rear bolt (special): M12 –1.75 GM 11502603
• Lower control arm rear nut: M12-1.75 hex nut GM 11516073
• Lower control arm rear washer: M12 x 25mm
• Upper control arm front bolt (special): M14-2.0 GM 11509777
• Upper control arm front nut: M14-2.0 hex nut GM 11516074
• Upper control arm front washer: M14 x 28mm

I do not have a GM # for the upper bolts.

 

[jdm197]

could you make me one of these tools?

 

[BTE]

Thanks for sharing this info! I've read about spring removal from the backside before, but didn't know a tool existed to help with the process.

 

[jdm197]

Yes, that is the way GM does it. I did watch a video of some service techs using the factory tool. It appears very smooth as it lowers in a straight line. Whereas tipping the ball joint end up/down creates an arc affect so you are binding the spring if it’s not compressed enough. This method you don’t have to compress the spring.

I have seen some pics where people use a longer shock and have it connected to act as a safety catch or use a long threaded rod where the shock goes so if the spring was to move, it can’t jump out.

From what I saw in the video, the few inches of movement going down doesn’t cause any issues.

where can i find this video?