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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 Sonoma sls with 2.2/5speed that currently drove from Arizona to Pennsylvania with a cylinder 1 misfire. Even with my Harley soft tail in the bed I got mid 20's mpg. Dealer says I have 0 compression on #1 cylinder and single digit compression on #3. Idle you can feel the miss and smell raw gas. The truck has 99k miles. At 69k the bottom end was re-ringed and new bearings. At 89k the previous owner blew a hose and head gasket went. I bought truck from shop that did the work. 4k miles later it needed a new head gasket AGAIN. I'm done trying to repair this engine and the crappy work by that shop. I bought a used 2.2 with 99k miles that runs great. On to my question:

I can run the bad engine for a while so I want to build the new 2.2 from oil pan to intake. End goal is 15psi of boost. I've looked at the stickies and most of the links are bad or the companies no longer offer performance parts for the 2.2.

I found ccw which offer a lot of stuff for the 2.2 and there is also Ebay. So far the plan is a complete bottom end kit and the head ccw offers with 2mm over size valves and 7500 rpm springs with titanium retainers. The head is suppose to flow 200 cfm with those valves. I've been looking at their sheet metal intake and 65mm throttle body. I want a cam grind that is optimized for use with turbos so maybe their turbo cam and cam gear. I have megasquirt in my other turbo car I built but I would rather not pull it to use on the Sonoma if I can get the factory computer retuned for turbo use.

Are there any other performance shops that offer turbo manifolds for our 2.2? I dont want to buy an Ebay manifold and have to reweld or add a ton of braces to keep them from cracking.

Is the stroker kit from ccw worth it if I'm attempting to push the little 2.2 for every hp and tq I can squeeze out of it? The cost isnt an issue if I can see noticable gains vs a non stroker

I'm sure I will have more questions as I continue with my research. First time building a 4 cylinder Chevy but not new to turbos or building power with 4 cylinders. Most of my experience is from Ford and dodge.
 

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time to get cereal
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I would run megasquirt if I were you. The stock MAP sensor doesn't read positive manifold pressure and even if you put one in that does the computer will never do anything with the values.



I wouldn't bother with the stroker kit unless you are looking to throw lots of money at it. The 2.2L has already been stroked twice since introduction. 1.8L then 2.0L


jbody.org also has good info on performance for the LN2 but it's a ghost town nowadays...


Is yours a VIN 4 or 5? The VIN 5 engines have a much more robust fuel system (for E85).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mine is a 4. Non flex fuel. I guess I can put the ms 2 in the Sonoma and buy an ms3 for the turbo Neon. I have a lot of mods to the ms2 to allow me to run 4 high impedance injectors and 4 low impedance injectors. I did that to allow the 550cc injectors to run on the street and add 4 more injectors over 1000cc to run 100 octane race gas and a track tune. Still have yet to add the 2nd fuel system. Gave the car to my son for his 18th birthday. Maybe one day it will see sub 10's in the 1/4.
 

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Have you seen this?



https://www.siepower.com/product-page/2-2l-truck-stage-1-turbo-kit


Most of the DTS2 stuff is now sold through CCW, I can't think of much else that is still around.


http://www.ennotechdesigns.com/performance-pulleys.html


^ A few years ago this guy told me he could make me an aluminum crankshaft pulley that integrated the pulley hub and pulley like the Quad4 does, but the cost was too much for me at the time. Eventually I hope to build a motor for my truck and I'll look back into it then.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That kit would be a good starting point. Maybe I will give them a call to get the details on the turbo. T3/t4 doesn't tell me anything. I also wish they had a picture of it installed on an s10 so I could get a better idea of how clean the install should look.

I know I said 15psi of boost but really I'm looking for 350-400 hp I think that would be more than enough to accomplish my goal of having a fast yet street friendly Sonoma
 

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There's a bunch of pictures in that link, at least I see them. That kit keeps the AC and power steering too. Getting rid of those allows you to mount the turbo further back so you don't have the weight in front of the wheels.



Get ready to empty your wallet...
 

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do you guys think the under drive pulley would actually be worth buying on stock motor? or that oversize throttle body?


I did an oversized throttle body a jeep 4.0 and it made a heck of difference but I don't know about these little 2.2 motors. I don't know if having a throttle body that large would make the throttle really touchy or anything.
 

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Under drive pulley just gives you back 3-5hp by turning the accessories a bit slower. On small hp engines, this can be noticeable, less so on larger hp engines.
Going to electric fans would be worth about as much or more.
The larger TB won't change power levels on a stock motor, engines are just air pumps, without improvements to heads/exhaust/valve size/cam duration, they won't move more air simply because they have a larger TB.
TB tip in can change a bit though, but if it gets a bit touchy, they can be retuned to accommodate the change in effective TB area.

Under drive pulley generally good. E fans generally good. After that you start to need actual engine upgrades to realize the gain of any other items.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will let everyone know what it runs to do my truck but it's going to take 6 months or more. My spending on the truck is split between performance parts and a few cosmetic changes.

Already installed half the 4/6 drop. I did the front and rear springs along with 4 shocks. C- notch came 2 days before I left. I'm going to custom fab the carrier bearing crossover to raise it up an inch and eliminate the ears that hang below the frame before I install the drop spindles and rear blocks. I also got the tailgate handle relocate kit yesterday.

I will be home in a week so I hope to have 3 or 4 days off before I leave again. I literally have 4-6 days home each month so it's a slow build
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I guess I could buy all the bolt-ons and install on the current engine but since its running on 3 cylinders my results would not be typical of other people's results
 

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@Shane Cary
Please post pictures of your carrier bearing crossover. Interested in doing the same.
Thanks
 

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do you guys think the under drive pulley would actually be worth buying on stock motor? or that oversize throttle body?


I did an oversized throttle body a jeep 4.0 and it made a heck of difference but I don't know about these little 2.2 motors. I don't know if having a throttle body that large would make the throttle really touchy or anything.

Just get a Quad4 throttle body from the junkyard. Cheap and makes at difference mostly in throttle response, since you're getting more are in for a given throttle position. It also helps if you're wringing it out to 6k+ but I don't think most people drive like that all of the time.


Another way to get a 2.2L going is by adding lightness.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@Shane Cary
Please post pictures of your carrier bearing crossover. Interested in doing the same.
Thanks
I've only glanced at it while fixing an exhaust leak. First impression was to remove existing crossover. Weld in plates to box that section of frame. Then use appropriate tubing welded 1" above stock location and remount carrier bearing. I should be home next Wednesday and be home until Saturday or Sunday. I need to remove bed to weld in c-notch and cover frame in por15. Time permitting I will work on carrier crossover and tailgate handle relocate kit
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Another way to get a 2.2L going is by adding lightness.
I'm researching this as well. I'm 5'6" and 150 pounds so it's not like I can safely lose anymore weight. So next best thing is dropping weight off the truck. Street driven truck so it needs to be safe
 

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Underdrive pulley is a good way to recoup a bit of power.

The efan conversion doesn't give as much as most people think. If the fan clutch (standard duty on the tutus) is working properly, the fan is only turning 60%-70% of shaft speed when "fully engaged" and around 25% or less of shaft speed when disengaged. If you're moving over 30 mph, the fan is basically freewheeling and not using any hp at all. The only time it's going to be an issue is after sitting at a traffic light, heat soaking in hot weather. Then, for the first 5 to 10 seconds, it'll be pulling a few hp, and after you start moving, it disengages. BTW, with an underdrive pulley, the hp "used" by the fan is even less because of the underdrive.

I don't remember the size of the stock throttle body on the tutus. Some minor scratching on an index card here shows that for a 2.2L (135 cubic inch) engine, with a red line of 6500 RPMs, you'd need a 1.75" (45mm) throttle body. Up to a 50mm/2" would probably not really hurt drivability, but won't gain much performance either. Above that, unless you're going to spin the thing way over 6,500 RPMs, you don't need any more, and tip in issues will make a larger throttle body much less "street friendly" and "drivable" in day to day traffic. A 2 inch/50mm throttle body should flow enough for 8,000 RPMs on a tutu (achievable, but parts selection gets tricky), and a 65mm throttle body will flow up to 12,000 RPMs on a tutu (probably entirely theoretical), maybe even higher than that. That big might be useful in a boosted situation, but on any normally aspirated engine, I'd avoid that.
 

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Well, on a 2.2L ditching the E-fan allows you to get rid of that pulley and bracket. I never actually weighed anything but here's a pic of what's left on the front of my engine. On the stock springs the front actually raised up a little.


 

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Also, it's been a while since I last read about this, but you'll want to rethink your PCV system. The stock system doesn't use a valve and I'm pretty sure some funky things start happening when you start pressurizing the intake manifold.


These engines were never meant for performance, so it's more of a challenge to get them to perform. Some people find it rewarding though. GM had the Quad4 and the Turbo Opel 4-cylinder, so the lowly 2.0/2.2L kind of got left in the dust.
 
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