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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 92 Slonoma with a 4.3 and the 700r4 trans. I changed out the
oil and while I was at it installed a shift improver kit from B&M along
with a deep sump from TCI..All went good save for the TCI sump as
I had to shave some of the front area where it butts up against the
inspec plate/box.

Here's what I have. According to the instrucs from B&M as well as the
manual it's stated that the TV cable housing has to be brought all
the way rearward to it's stop by pushing down on the lock
tab. Then when it's all the way at the stop, open the throttle all
the way as the cable inside can ratchet up so the play is eliminated
where the cable hooks to the throttle valve linkage in the trans..

I went to the TV cable on the throttle bracket and there is NO tab,
and the TV cable housing appears to be a no-adjustment type where
there's supposed to be the push down tab..I noticed when I was
double checking my work that there was some play at the linkage
to plunger in the trans, but not much. The hook went into the linkage
like to was suppose to.

Where's the adjustment for the TV cable ? I 've looked all over the TV
housing and throttle bracket, and at the other end of the TV cable
where it goes into the trans..No adjustment..

I don't want to screw this trans up because I didn't get this Throttle
Valve and Throttle Valve Cable adjusted right...

Any help or info on this please..Thanks bg
 

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Here's a picture of a TV cable I pulled off an Astro. It has the old-style connector I needed for the Holley TBI I was using.





I remember talking about this with you before...if yours doesn't have this tab I'm at a loss for how to adjust it. Maybe get a junkyard cable like I did?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Matt. I am having trouble seeing the pics, but I believe the
top arrow is pointing to the push down tab. The cable you're
showing looks much like mine. On the end where it goes into the
throttle bracket it has a fixture that looks like a small dome. I
looked at it pretty close and just didn't see any place where it
would be able to ratchet from..I was thinking about this, and recalled
last yr after I set the base idle with the ECM disabled, I bent the
throttle bracket forward to give a bit play at the gas pedal
cable junction. I also had to remove the same bracket to install
the fuel press gage and tee.

I believe it was able to slide a bit rearward to forward by loosening
the mount bolts. I think I'll try and take the little play that I have
at the TV cable on the TBI end and re-adjust the bracket rearward
to remove the play. I'll call B&M tomorrow too. I do seem to recall
we had posts on this around last yr on your ride..We'll see. Thanks
for the pics. If you have any time and feel like messing with it, maybe
you could post a pic of the cable again in a sharper or brighter lite.

My cable looks a lot like you pic but I can't really make it out as far
as detail..Anyway you've been a help..bg
 

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TV cable adjustment:

With the truck off, depress the tab in the "D" shaped portion of the cable housing. If you cannot depress the tab, you may have to use a small nut and a pair of channel lock pliers. Simply put a "flat" of the nut against the tab and compress it and the cable in the pliers. Had to do this the first time I adjusted the TV cable on my 88 S10.

While the tab is pressed in, push the dome shaped portion of the cable towards the tab. It will slide into it. Now, release the tab. The dome shaped portion of the cable will be retained in the housing. Now, rotate the throttle body's linkage to it's full travel (WOT). When you do this, the dome shaped portion of the cable will ratchet out of the housing. You will hear it click several times when it comes out. After it ratchets out, flip the linkage a few more times to make sure it is fully where it needs to be. Takes a lot longer to explain that actually do. HTH's

Mike Campbell
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Mike. I'll look at the cable again. I must be missing seeing the
tab. I'll get a flashlite out and a Mag glass if I have to, and try to
get this right. Well no try to it. I WILL get this right..bg
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well sure enough I did look again and did find the tab. It was kind of hard
to see but I found it and got the cable adjust properly. I have to admit
it sure shifts different. I have to be careful from 1st to 2nd as it wants
to break the tires loose. The rest of the up-shift is much better and
firmer. Time in between shifts has increased and I like that. When I
put the kit in I also installed in the throttle valve passage a B&M
downshift kit which keeps it in 4th gear up until 2/3rps instead of
half pedal. I haven't tried it out on the freakway yet. I'm also glad
I didn't go with the option II of the kit. It's suppose to the firmest
of the two options. It would of been a pain to drive then, I'm sure.

It sure sucks up the atf now. With the TCI deep sump pan it takes
8qts.1pt to top off at the hot mark after running it for a while. Hopefully
it will run a lil cooler. I didn't have a problem with trans heat, but with
this kit I put in, ya never know. I like the drain plug on the pan too.

I know some say this just gives a shifty mech a reason just to drop
the fluid and call all good for a tranny service..Won't work for me..
I make sure to inscribe the last 4 numbers of my ssn on the filter
when I do a service. If I take my ride in for a service, I always ask
for the old filter and gasket back..If I'm set up to get screwed by a
half-a$$ shop, I have two friends who work at Cal BAR. More than not I'll
just do it myself. I modified the trans mount x-member at the mount
so the pan will come right out without fighting it..

Anyway enough rant. I just wanted to say thanks for all who helped
me find the elusive tab and get the TV cable right..
 

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Glad to hear that you were able to get it all figured out :)! You sound like a no BS kind of guy... Have you considered putting in a remote transmission filter and a auxiliary transmission cooler? Heat is the number one killer of automatic transmissions. It is often said that a 10% decrease in transmission temperatures can double transmission life.

I have a B&M 24,000 GVW cooler and remote transmission filter (got both from Summit) in both my syclone and S10. My syclone also has a TCI deep cast aluminum pan (needs all the cooling it can get with boosted launches and a 3K stall torque converter) with stainless steel bolts so that rust is never a problem. Hope to get one for my S10 after the holidays. The remote filter is sweet because you can mount a temperature sender in it to monitor your transmission temperatures. I can change the transmission filter on both my trucks now without dropping the pan. My S10 has the old dual pillar pod from my syclone in it with Autometer Phantom gauges (oil pressure and transmission temperature).

Mike Campbell
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Hey those are two good ideas. So I take it one uses the stock trans
lines that go to the rad and plumb them to the aux cooler. Now as far
as the filter assy, did you plumb it before or after the cooler ?

What about the flimsy stock filter ? I tried to find a steel mesh screen
filter but had no luck. I have an extra Oberg filter assy that I had
for my 64 VW bug with a 2110 Berg stroker in it. The Oberg is a
excellant filter assy and will screen even the smallest of particles.
It wasn't cheap, bout 140 when I bought it, but it is well designed.

Where is a good place to stick the cooler. I live where the summer
gets HOT and A/C is a main factor for me. To have the cooler in
front of the condersor with it in front of the rad would possibly be
defeating as far as a cool running engine in the summer. I'm running
a elec fan and it works ok.

Any info or input, thanks Mike. bg

www.guardexlubes.com/filters.html
 

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The set up on my S10 is a carbon copy of my syclone. The remote transmission filter (Summit part # SUM-G4980 $29.99) is before the in radiator cooler. Because that is where I take my transmission temperature at because that is the temperature that the transmission actually "sees" before ANY cooling is done. I want to know how hot is is BEFORE any cooling takes place to see if it is melting down just inches away from me... Cut the hard lines and flared them before putting on the rubber hoses. The other reason is if my transmission grenades, I want to keep all the shrapnel from getting into my radiator cooler as well as my aux cooler.

The auxiliary B&M cooler (Summit part # BMM-70264 $49.95) is mounted in front of the radiator on the passenger side of the truck with the hardware that came with the cooler (it's a kit). Had to grind some of the plastic off the back of my grill on my S10 because it didn't sit back far enough to clear the cooler. The B&M is after the radiator cooler BTW. I used 90 degree close brass fittings on the top and bottom of the radiator to make the install as clean as possible. Anywhere where the rubber lines go through sheet metal, there is a grommet as well as plastic loom on the line to protect it from chafing.

I have pics of the install on my syclone in my gallery below. The remote filter on my syclone is where the battery used to be because I relocated it to the fender well. On my S10, I bolted it to the passenger side frame right out if front. I can take pics if ya would like to see the set up on my S10...

Mike Campbell
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I saw the trans filter in the Summit book today, and saw that was
the one you decided to use. I take it you tapped the boss on the
filter housing for the temp sender ?

If you have time or feel like it, maybe you could take a couple pics
of the plumbing from aft the filter to the rad cooler to the aux cooler
and back. I'm confused on how you ran the plumbing. I ordered the
Summit filter kit tonite as well an ATM-5757 gauge. I need the white
face as I don't see that well. Along with this I ordered a BMM-70264
cooler kit. I have a Slonoma and have room inside the grill area. I was
going to use the Oberg filter, but I have a feeling I'm going to end
up with a Orig Manx fiberglass dunebuggy on a 69 VW pan with
IRS. I have a Transform sand special trans with close 3rd and 4th
Diamond gears here at the house for an IRS. If I get it, I'll use
the Oberg on a nice lil Bernnie Bergman full flow 1776 block.

I looked at your site and am impressed with good firearms. I was
wondering if those with Aimpoint dot scopes on the GP and Mark II..

I too meddle with sidearms and a one longarm. I'm a Colt man as my
small collection runs with a late 2nd Gen Colt SAA in 45 Long Colt,
a never fired Royal Blue 357 6" Colt Python, a Mk IV Series Goverment
reworked with many aftermarket parts in 45ACP, two Ruger SSA's
one in the Vaq style and the other in 7.5 Blackhawk Bisley both in
45 Long Colt, a preban custom Glock 22 mag-na-ported with special
German Glock 15 rnd mags, and a fairly nice lil 380ACP made by
Bersa and reworked quite a bit. All the Rugers carry Wolff Springs
and Power Custom 2nd notch hammers. All good shooters..

I have a custom mini-14 with Shilen heavy barrel, JP Enterprises brake
Choate stock, all springs wolff, shaved and lighten op-rod, harris bi-pod
etc. Great shooter now. Wasn't cheap, but here in Ca we can't
have AR-15's now..Unless they were grandfathered before 2000.

I digress. Any pics of the plumbing would be great. Thanks,bg
 

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Didn't have to drill and tap anything, the remote filter housing is already set for 1/8" NPT senders. They even include a plug for the hole in case you aren't ambitious enough to put a sender of some sort in there ;)...

Sounds like you are gonna have a carbon copy of my set up. Right down to the same gauge as I have the Auto Meter Phantom gauges also.

Shootist eh? I have an equal amount of longarms and handguns. I'm partial to the late William B's guns. I celebrated my 21st b-day by buying a super redhawk .44 magnum with a 9.5 inch barrel. Own LOTS of TC Contender stuff (have two contenders, one blued the other in SS, have an encore also). Have a Shilen fluted stainless steel match barrel in .223 custom made for me by J.D. Jones. Barrel is 14 inches long and cost $900 alone with a six month wait... My .45-70 that I got from Fox Ridge (TC custom shop) is fun to "play" with :D ! All my rifles are "varmint" calibers and wear heavy barrels and scopes with liberal magnification...

Anywho, here's the pics of my set up:
http://huryde.station180.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=mikecampbellakaSY2932&id=aha
http://huryde.station180.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=mikecampbellakaSY2932&id=ahb
http://huryde.station180.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=mikecampbellakaSY2932&id=ahc
http://huryde.station180.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=mikecampbellakaSY2932&id=ahd
http://huryde.station180.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=mikecampbellakaSY2932&id=ahe

Mike Campbell
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes it looks like I'm on the same page as you are with the cooler, filter
and gauge. I'd like to use an6 and steel line or at the least Gdyr blue
silicone hose for the aux lines off and back to the trans. I have it on
my heater from the manifold=core=rad and I feel is the best hose
going. I like to use an fittings and line more though. I'm thinking the
trans lines are either 3/8" or 6an size. I have a surplus aircraft shop
close to me and they supply most everyone here in Ca with an fittings
and hose and reduced cost. G&J Aircraft Supply is the name. I am going
to mount the gauge on the left side of the dash pod by the dome lite
swt. Orig owner put a tach on the other side of the pod. I'm the second
owner. The A-pod is not an option for me. Both tach and trans gauge
will be 2 5/8". I'd like to find a Phantom tach to go with the trans gauge
but no big deal..

I'm impressed with your firearms. I've never shot a T/C put have
pulled the trigger on Rem XP-1 in 7mmBR..Sweeet! Here's the parts
I ordered last nite..I'd say I copied you almost down to the nil.

Thanks for your replies and post of pics, Mike. They have been most
helpful..

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BMM-70264
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-G4980
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATM-5857
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATM-3202
 

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Does my '85 have one of these "TV" cables cause my tranny shifts like a POS?
 

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If it's got a 700R4/4L60 it's got one. Yes. your 85 has a 700R4. If your tranny is shifting bad, try adjusting the cable with the procedure outlined in the above posts.
 

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Thanks Mike,
I can't wait to adjust it to the 6500 rpm shift points:evilg:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Haven't much luck finding the 5/16" x to 3/8" adaptor for the
stock trans lines to go to the aux cooler and remote filter
assy. I at first had wanted to use steel tube, but braided hose
will work just fine..Rubber hose is just not an option I want to
apply.

Have however decided to go with steel braided line
for the install and did find fittings that will work for the
adapting of AN-6 fittings and line to 5/16" tube. I'm waiting
on the parts to show up from Summit.

If any of you know what size the barbed fittings are as far as the
NPT size that comes with the Summit remote filter kit, it
would be helpful as I need to get the fittings for the NPT to
male AN-6 for the filter housing. Also if any know what size the
B&M 24,000 cooler in and out tube size's are, it would be helpful.
The tubes are barbed and I'll have to sweat a female NPT
bushing onto them so I can make use of AN-6 fittings for
the cooler. Anyway enough for my project..

If anyone is interested in going with AN fittings to the trans lines
here's a link..HTH's. and thanks for any advise or info..

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR-360165
 

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From the "vault" on syty.net: http://sytynet2.phpwebhosting.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=25215

If I knew that you were gonna go with steel/braided transmission lines, I would have steered you towards B&M's 28,000 GVW trans cooler (BMM-70266) as it has 1/2" NPT threads... I helped my bro install that cooler on his SHO. It is almost twice the size of the 24,000 GVW model.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Mike, at first I was going with steel tube, but it appears it will be
easier to go with the braided line. The reason I want to stick
with the 24,000 GVR cooler is the fact it has the low oil drop
incorporated into it, where as the 28,000 with the 1/2 NPT
doesn't have this feature. Also since I have a Sonoma the
24,000 will fit in there just right. I'd like to mount it in such
a way where the in and return tubes of the cooler will be in
a vertical plane facing the inner part of the right headlamp assy,
instead of sitting with the two tubes in a horizontal position
facing up toward the hood.

I don't suppose you recall the size fittings as far as where they
thread into the filter housing are, do you ? I can't tell by the
pics at Summit. I see from the pics at the SYTy site that he
was able to come up with -AN fittings for the rad cooler. I
believe they're 1/2 x 20 at these upper and lower ports, but
am not sure. I wasn't able to pull up the diagram over at the
SyTy site and his post. It's blacked out. I suppose one has to
be a member there to see how he did and what parts he used.

Thanks for any info and advise. Hope you and your family are
having a nice x-mas.
 

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Sorry for the partial post, was in the process of getting the rest of the specs for ya when I got "distracted" by another project (that's why you don't see my name at the bottom of my last post...) The fittings on the Summit remote filter are 1/4" NPT and the barbs accept 3/8" rubber hose (hose comes in the kit). The bung for the sender is 1/8" NPT BTW. The fittings on the B&M trans cooler use rubber line included in the kit that has an ID of 11/32" (this dimension is written on the hose itself). If you want, I can take off the hose and put my dial calipers on it to get an actual reading on the fitting if you wish... HTH's

Hope that you are having a safe and happy holiday season as well :)!

Mike Campbell
 
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