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The mag shanks I currently have are the exact ones you just posted.
The problem I see with them is the play in the hole of the rim. There’s a good bit of slop in there.
The Toyota mags, part no. 73138t are suppose to be a more direct fit. The shank diameter is .725, but the shank length measures .55 from the base of the washer.
What’s more important, the slop in the hole or the length of the shank?
 

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The mag shanks I currently have are the exact ones you just posted.
The problem I see with them is the play in the hole of the rim. There’s a good bit of slop in there.
The Toyota mags, part no. 73138t are suppose to be a more direct fit. The shank diameter is .725, but the shank length measures .55 from the base of the washer.
What’s more important, the slop in the hole or the length of the shank?
If the center bore is correct (70.3mm was what the factory wheels had), then any "slop" at the lug will just be the wheel turning on the hub slightly. That shouldn't matter, and once the lug nuts are fully tightened, there won't be any play. If that's the situation, I'd go with the lugs you have, or the ones I posted. Note that some S10s have 70.5mm hubs, and need a slightly larger center bore on one axle.

If the center bore is larger than 70.3mm (aftermarket wheels are typically over 75mm center bores so they fit more cars, some are over 100mm), then you really should install nylon or aluminum hub centering rings that fit the center bore of the wheels exactly and match your S10 hubs exactly (70.3mm and/or 70.5mm). With the proper centering rings, the "slop" at the lug holes will not matter either.

I would never run mag style lugs and expect them to center the wheel properly That's just asking for trouble. If you're going to try that, get the ones that are as snug as possible in the lug hole bores. Truthfully, to be "snug enough" to properly center the wheel, there's going to be a friction issue with tightening them properly, and that will cause other more serious problems, so I'd really try to get to a truly hub centric setup (with whatever adapters you need to get to that point).
 

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If the center bore is correct (70.3mm was what the factory wheels had), then any "slop" at the lug will just be the wheel turning on the hub slightly. That shouldn't matter, and once the lug nuts are fully tightened, there won't be any play. If that's the situation, I'd go with the lugs you have, or the ones I posted. Note that some S10s have 70.5mm hubs, and need a slightly larger center bore on one axle.

If the center bore is larger than 70.3mm (aftermarket wheels are typically over 75mm center bores so they fit more cars, some are over 100mm), then you really should install nylon or aluminum hub centering rings that fit the center bore of the wheels exactly and match your S10 hubs exactly (70.3mm and/or 70.5mm). With the proper centering rings, the "slop" at the lug holes will not matter either.

I would never run mag style lugs and expect them to center the wheel properly That's just asking for trouble. If you're going to try that, get the ones that are as snug as possible in the lug hole bores. Truthfully, to be "snug enough" to properly center the wheel, there's going to be a friction issue with tightening them properly, and that will cause other more serious problems, so I'd really try to get to a truly hub centric setup (with whatever adapters you need to get to that point).
So with what I gathered from this, is if my corvette wheels have the factory center bore of 70.3, they should work on my S-10 that has a 70.5 with the lug nuts that you have provided a picture of.
 

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Note that some S10s have 70.5mm hubs, and need a slightly larger center bore on one axle.
I've never seen an S10 with different size bores on the same truck...if I'm understanding you correctly. They changed the hub to a smaller diameter. I ran into that problem when I went to the 2nd generation of ZQ8 wheels on my '96. A flap wheel took care of the problem in short order.
 

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So with what I gathered from this, is if my corvette wheels have the factory center bore of 70.3, they should work on my S-10 that has a 70.5 with the lug nuts that you have provided a picture of.
Yes.

If you have the 70.5mm hubs, you'll probably need to enlarge the center bores on the Corvette wheels slightly. The difference is under 0.008" in the diameter of the bore, so you need to remove a little under 0.004" of material all the way around. If you want to be really precise, take them to a machine shop. Most folks just attack the center bore with a flapper wheel, a die grinder or even some sand paper and elbow grease. In actual practice, I think GM's specification for radial runout is about 0.030", so even if you get it all wrong removing the 0.004" of material, you're unlikely to make a difference you will actually feel driving.
 

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I've never seen an S10 with different size bores on the same truck...if I'm understanding you correctly. They changed the hub to a smaller diameter. I ran into that problem when I went to the 2nd generation of ZQ8 wheels on my '96. A flap wheel took care of the problem in short order.
Maybe it's just that the fronts on the 2wd models get changed to the smaller hub size when the brake rotors are replaced, resulting in the mixed sizes. I've definitely seen early trucks where the later wheels fit on one end (the front IIRC), but didn't fit the hubs on the other axle (the rear IIRC) without some adjustment to enlarge the center bores.
 

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IIRC its the rear axle hubs on the Fbody that were larger.
and those were drum brakes.
the rear discs didnt have larger hubs.
In 98 all F bodies got rear discs V6 or V8,before that V6 got drums unless it was a Y87 package.
I think S10s used pretty much the same timetable.
 

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For anyone trying to put the aluminum C3 rally wheel on your first gen S-10 or any GM model with the 4.75x5 with a 73 mm center bore, the Honda Passport came with some chrome finish mag shank lugs in 12 x 1.5 and they fit with the washer like a glove.
The shank itself was slightly larger in diameter ( .70 instead of .679 ) and the length was shorter than a standard by a rough eighth of an inch. The washer is pretty thin and caves in a good bit at full torque, but you’d have to be really observant to see it.
Available at your nearest Napa.
 

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Aha... and you'd be wrong. Have a nice day.
No, he's correct. The hub centers the wheel, the friction between the wheel and its mating surface supports the vehicle.

The wheel studs clamp the wheel to its mating face with great force. In the case of an S10 with a torque spec of 100ft-lbs and 12mm studs, we're talking a clamping force per stud of over 10,000lbs. The friction of the interface between wheel and the disc/drum and the hub is what takes the load of the vehicle. In no application is a vehicle supported or driven by applying side-loading (shear) the wheel studs or bolts, especially when an aluminum wheel is involved. In order to apply any shear force to the studs, the static friction between the wheel and the involved mating surfaces would have to be overcome, and that's not going to happen if your studs are torqued properly due to the amount of clamping force. As with most vehicles the S10 uses a hub-centric and not a lug-centric design, so the hub serves to center the wheel, not the studs.
 
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