I've got everything fitting now and I'm ready to install the calipers. But I don't like how the brake line fits as far as being twisted to bolt it on and the bracket from the frame appears to be keyed so that the line only fits in one way. Would it be stupid of me to file the hole a bit so I can rotate the line 180 degrees? I'm guessing that's to keep it from working loose from the metal line over time as the suspension moves.
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just my opinion-but i think it would be fine.
in my particular use, i didnt even use the bracket on the frame, and i had no issues. i just went thru all the motions of the suspension up and down and had a buddy steer left and right to make sure at no point did it bind, kink, rub, etc. never loosened up on me or moved. i plan on welding new brackets on where i want them when i get to that point on this current go-round but really just bcuz i have extra brackets left over
in my particular use, i didnt even use the bracket on the frame, and i had no issues. i just went thru all the motions of the suspension up and down and had a buddy steer left and right to make sure at no point did it bind, kink, rub, etc. never loosened up on me or moved. i plan on welding new brackets on where i want them when i get to that point on this current go-round but really just bcuz i have extra brackets left over
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A pic or two would help
Here's a pic of the bracket, which is hanging upside down. I need to rotate the hose 180 degrees where it attaches to the hard line so it won't have to twist to attach to my caliper with the banjo bolt. But the bracket is keyed so the hose will only fully seat in one position.
Unless someone thinks it's a really bad idea I'm just going to file the hole in the bracket a bit.
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Unless someone thinks it's a really bad idea I'm just going to file the hole in the bracket a bit.
I ended up filing the bracket just enough to flip the hose but keep two square edges so it can't rotate.
Got everything connected today and bled the brakes then went to put the wheels on and found that they scrape the calipers in one spot. If I had gone with the pure Camaro setup rather than the hybrid it would be fine due to the way my wheels are shaped. I grabbed some 5/16" spacers from the parts store and they give me more than enough clearance but I don't like the amount of lug left sticking through the wheel with them on.
I guess I'll try to find some spacers that are more like 3/16". Pretty bummed about the whole thing right now though.
This is with the spacer behind the wheel. Without it the top edge of the wheel spoke catches the caliper.
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Got everything connected today and bled the brakes then went to put the wheels on and found that they scrape the calipers in one spot. If I had gone with the pure Camaro setup rather than the hybrid it would be fine due to the way my wheels are shaped. I grabbed some 5/16" spacers from the parts store and they give me more than enough clearance but I don't like the amount of lug left sticking through the wheel with them on.
I guess I'll try to find some spacers that are more like 3/16". Pretty bummed about the whole thing right now though.
This is with the spacer behind the wheel. Without it the top edge of the wheel spoke catches the caliper.
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Soooo, photobucket now sucks as well all know, and they are going to kill my account when my grandfathered contract is up, unless I pay up. All the links will break and we cant edit in this forum, so I will try to start a new thread once I get everything transferred. For those that don't know, PB changed their business model a few months back and I'd have to pay $400 a year to keep the pics up in all my threads, when that was a free service to most and I was paying $30 a year for increased bandwidth for the last 10 years.
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So, after 2 years of not much progress, I've been revisiting brake upgrades, and other stuff for my truck (since it's been sub 20 degrees around here lately), and just reread this whole thread.
I see there are some newer options out there for calipers. 1st Gen CTS-V 4 piston Brembos, and ATS 4 piston Brembos. I've seen people saying that the mounting bolt holes were 5" apart, or 5.0675 apart. Neither were exactly scientific, so I'm wondering if either of these would fit on the brackets Sean made (or makes.)
I think Rhotpursuit mentioned using CTS-V 4 piston calipers with Vette calipers, but don't want to have to re-reread the whole thread to find it. lol
The CTS-V V1 calipers are new on ebay in the $300 range for a pair with slider kits.
ATS is similar, but a little more.
Jay
I see there are some newer options out there for calipers. 1st Gen CTS-V 4 piston Brembos, and ATS 4 piston Brembos. I've seen people saying that the mounting bolt holes were 5" apart, or 5.0675 apart. Neither were exactly scientific, so I'm wondering if either of these would fit on the brackets Sean made (or makes.)
I think Rhotpursuit mentioned using CTS-V 4 piston calipers with Vette calipers, but don't want to have to re-reread the whole thread to find it. lol
The CTS-V V1 calipers are new on ebay in the $300 range for a pair with slider kits.
ATS is similar, but a little more.
Jay
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I don't think it was me...
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I am so close on pulling the trigger on some ATS calipers, but alas... it means I would need new rotors.
I have C6 Z51 calipers & rotors currently... 340mm x 32mm... the ATS uses a 321mm rotor but in a 5x115 bolt pattern. No fear... the base C7 rotor is 320mm and the same ol 5 x 4.75 pattern.
By the time I buy the calipers & 2 new rotors, I may as well have just spent 100$ more and gone with Wilwood 4 pots.
Maybe I'll order an ATS caliper from RockAuto just to see if it will bolt up and if it uses the same rotor offset as C5/C6 seeing as I can't seem to find good info on the internet this morning about it.
I have C6 Z51 calipers & rotors currently... 340mm x 32mm... the ATS uses a 321mm rotor but in a 5x115 bolt pattern. No fear... the base C7 rotor is 320mm and the same ol 5 x 4.75 pattern.
By the time I buy the calipers & 2 new rotors, I may as well have just spent 100$ more and gone with Wilwood 4 pots.
Maybe I'll order an ATS caliper from RockAuto just to see if it will bolt up and if it uses the same rotor offset as C5/C6 seeing as I can't seem to find good info on the internet this morning about it.
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It's 20 degrees, what else you got to do lol
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No, most OEM 4 & 6 piston calipers are direct mount, while most aftermarket 4 & 6 piston calipers are bracket/radial mounted to allow one caliper to be used with different size rotor combinations.
Whether a caliper is direct mounted or say radial mounted ie Wilwoods, doesn't confer an advantage or disadvantage one way or the other. Just a different design. Prior to 4 and 6 pot direct mount being common, pretty much everything used some sort of abutment bracket because that's what setup the sliding function in calipers with pistons on a single side. In calipers with pistons on both sides, provided the caliper is properly centered, the caliper itself doesn't move, only the pistons do.
Works out to the same from a fluid volume perspective, instead of pushing 1 piston say 5mm, you push 2 opposed pistons 2.5mm each- the pad tolerance/kickback is the same in both scenarios when your foot isn't on the brake. In the single sided, the piston is actually pulling the caliper 2.5mm across the sliders and pushing an additional 2.5 out on one side. However the big advantage to multi pots on both sides- force is a factor of fluid pressure applied over piston area. While individual pistons are smaller, the cumulative piston area is larger than single sided calipers, enabling more force to be applied to bigger pads on larger swept area rotors using the same fluid volume and system pressure.
Got a bit off track, but figured the explanation wouldn't hurt.
Whether a caliper is direct mounted or say radial mounted ie Wilwoods, doesn't confer an advantage or disadvantage one way or the other. Just a different design. Prior to 4 and 6 pot direct mount being common, pretty much everything used some sort of abutment bracket because that's what setup the sliding function in calipers with pistons on a single side. In calipers with pistons on both sides, provided the caliper is properly centered, the caliper itself doesn't move, only the pistons do.
Works out to the same from a fluid volume perspective, instead of pushing 1 piston say 5mm, you push 2 opposed pistons 2.5mm each- the pad tolerance/kickback is the same in both scenarios when your foot isn't on the brake. In the single sided, the piston is actually pulling the caliper 2.5mm across the sliders and pushing an additional 2.5 out on one side. However the big advantage to multi pots on both sides- force is a factor of fluid pressure applied over piston area. While individual pistons are smaller, the cumulative piston area is larger than single sided calipers, enabling more force to be applied to bigger pads on larger swept area rotors using the same fluid volume and system pressure.
Got a bit off track, but figured the explanation wouldn't hurt.
Just wanted to double check...if I decide to go that way, I wanted to make sure I didn't have to track down other parts as well. It would suck to figure out how much it would cost and make a choice based on that, and then have to spend more money on abutments or something.
Thanks for the explanation!
Jay
Thanks for the explanation!
Jay
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I looked into this some more, all the numbers match up other than offsets are unknown and compatibility with C7 rotors is unknown. It will definitely "bolt-up" to C5/C6 spindle/bracket setups, just a question of inboard/outboard offset alignment.
The $$$ numbers don't work for me to justify the experiment... partially due to Canada yay Canada... but someone ought give it a try and see if it fits together nicely!
Best deal I found for'em new anyway:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Cadil...ash=item1e872ebb8a:g:XHAAAOSw3xJVX3-H&vxp=mtr
The $$$ numbers don't work for me to justify the experiment... partially due to Canada yay Canada... but someone ought give it a try and see if it fits together nicely!
Best deal I found for'em new anyway:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Cadil...ash=item1e872ebb8a:g:XHAAAOSw3xJVX3-H&vxp=mtr
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