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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Discussion Starter #81
not a bad looking truck, better condition then mine lol. i like it!

Thanks man...body is really straight. Especially since it has been wrecked in the front at least 4 times. Only once by me. :). I take good care of my stuff. The paint is toast on it. Outside of this project, it's really all I have on the plate for it...painting, and some minor body work. I ran pizzas in it for 12 years. It was getting rough looking and almost on its last leg in 2009 when I parked it and realized it was either fix her or let her go. I couldn't bear it since I have had it so long. It paid me, so I decided it was time to pay her back with some new goodies. Glad I did. Know it looks like a 92, but it is an 84. Put the 94 Blazer core support in the truck for the one piece grille which I just like a lot better. I don't like the way some folks hack up the grill to make it fit on the older trucks fit that grille and the lights don't sit right. You can tell quite easily.

Always loved S series trucks. That Blazer (The Bobcat) is another good example of what I love about them. It's slow, but it will go anywhere and pulls like a beast!
 

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Should've had a V8.
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Haha I was wondering about that. I like the older 3 piece ones myself, mainly because I have enough of them for spares for when I hit another deer. Not if i hit one, but when i do lol.

I just think the older ones look nicer anyway haha.
 

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Should've had a V8.
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Haha I was wondering about that. I like the older 3 piece ones myself, mainly because I have enough of them for spares for when I hit another deer. Not if i hit one, but when i do lol.

I just think the older ones look nicer anyway haha.
forgot to mention I have a Bravada Grille on it right now.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Discussion Starter #84
Matter of personal taste. I had three of those grilles. Traded one to a gentleman for some stuff....think that green camper was part of what I got, and recently I was at the gas station by my house, and there was a guy there with a LWB 84. Nice older truck like mine. Only thing was wrong was he had broken the grille recently. I told him to stay put and I went and fetched him one of the ones I had. Felt good to help the guy out. Didn't charge him anything. Should have gotten good Karma for that. Came back out later and the outside door handle on the driver's side broke in my hand...what?? So much for my good deed huh?
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Discussion Starter #86
Okay, got the intake back from the shop. Note the bigger holes! $75. Mounted it tonight, and that is all I did. Tired and not feeling tonight. Probably going to rebuild the TBI tomorrow. My fuel pump and my fuse block I am adding for the ECM (isolating it from the rest of the system) will be here too. So I have a couple of things I can do. Waiting for the d-bag I bought the injectors from to get them here so I can build them. Also may test fit the wiring harness.

What is that deal on that knock sensor y'all? Do I need one from a 2.8 or a 3.4???. Damanx says I need one from the 3.4....what do you guys think?

Here's where I am. Found out the hard way that I needed to move two of the studs to the middle of the engine. That's a lame ass design where the bolts won't clear. Stupid! Fortunately I never throw bolts away, so I had some stuff that would work. I wound up just using a stud on each corner, two in the middle and on the ends I had some short bolt that I swapped in. I believe that will work just fine! :)


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Purdy....not really. But functional.


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Should've had a V8.
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I didn't think the 2.8 had a knock sensor? But i'd say use the one from the 2.8 if they did, since you're using the 2.8 TBI and comp, etc.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Discussion Starter #88
Yeah they all have them...fit? That's what I have been hearing....but I am confused because it isn't a 2.8. Shrugs shoulders...
 

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the knock sensor needs to be matched to the knock filter(ESC) in order to operate correctly. all 2.8's ive ever saw had the knock sensor.

Im using a 2.8 KS with my 3.4, seems to pick up knock like its supposed to. so use the 2.8 KS for now.

ideally the KS needs to be matched to the engine, or more specifically, the bore size.

save this link in your favs....

http://www.phormula.co.uk/KnockCalculator.aspx


and the source as well....

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?1458-Knock-Sensor-Knock-Filter-ESC-and-swaps!
 

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Supposedly, the knock sensor is designed to repsond to frequencies generated by the pings created by the engine it's attached to.

I'm not sure the 2.8l and 3.4l knock sensor is all that different any way. If you wanted to really see what was going on, you'd really need to see the schematic diagram for the ESC's to see what it's doing with the since wave generated by the knock sensor.

Side note: the knock sensor is the same element that makes your watch or microwave beep. It's also the same element that is used in the wii, xbox or playstation drum set.

In any case, to truly find out what tuning will be required of the knock sensor, you are going to need to look at the streaming data from the ecm while driving. That knock sensor, regardless of which motor it's for, will detect knocks that you'd never hear.

So worry about that later.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Discussion Starter #91
cool. I didn't really think there was THAT much difference. Anybody got one they will sell me cheap? :)
 

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Rockauto. Get a new one.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Discussion Starter #93
Yeah....this truck has been 40 and 40 dollaring me to death over the last few weeks. I am really trying to only use old parts where practical like the manifold and distributor. I don't really want a bunch of old worn out shit on my truck that I built back to new. Sort of like buying a tailor made suit and wearing a stained second hand shirt from the thrift store with it....just don't make sense.
 

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Should've had a V8.
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you're not alone haha. heater core last week, fuel pump this week, a few weeks ago when I was getting it ready for inspection i put in a new sway bar and end links, rotors and pads, shoes on the back, e brake cables... it's expensive having an old truck lol
 

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best bet is to buy a new GM KS, a used one may have damage to the piezo(sp?)element inside and may cause unwanted false knock or none at all. dont use teflon[on the threads] just install in block and follow torque specs. too much torque may damage piezo element and cause it to be too sensitive.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Discussion Starter #96
Good advice. I was just having a cheapass moment. I don't usually do that when it comes to doing things right.

Here's what I got done tonight. About 3 hours.

First I worked out the wiring harness as neat as I could. I got rid of that stupid oil pressure switch that does nothing at all on my truck and removed the relay. Also took out the A/C one. Looking at the diagram, I can work this into my existing system easier than trying to work the 87 harness and relay into it, so I got rid of it too. The only relay left is for the fuel pump. Let me get this straight guys....that wire coming off that circuit...that tiny wire....carries enough current to run the pump? I'm not really all that fired up on it. In fact, I think I am going to use my existing relay setup and cut the factory one out. It's a painless, and really good quality.


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Next I ran an auxiliary fuse block inside. This is going to run my ignition hot (pink black) and my constant hot (orange). This way I can isolate my computer from the rest of the truck. Thought that might make my life easier when troubleshooting since it is separate from the rest of the truck wiring except for the energizer wire that comes from the main fuse block. Not to mention it would probably make it shitloads stable and safer than just hooking that crap up to the existing fuse block. It's located on the passenger side kick panel above the air circualtor vent. Acutally using one of the screws to hold it up there. Fits tight, but works.


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Instead of running even more damn wires behind the distributor...and to keep the lines short, I ran my power wires (orange hot and pink ignition) along with the crank signal wire back into the truck by the main ECM harness. That grommet is just like the one to the right of the ECM harness that the heater control cable goes through. 1 1/8" hole. I fed the hot for the fuse block through this hole too and it will connect to the junction block directly above!

inside view


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Outside


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And the rat's nest....actually working out pretty good. Most everything will be tied up and loomed when I get done.


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Not bad for 3 hours. One other question...my truck has an electric fan. My Edelbrock intake had two hole and there was also one in the block. My truck has gauges. It has TWO temp sensors? Well, here's a bitch for you. The new intake has a sensor in it that reports back to the ECM, so I can't put that in there, and the other hole is occupied by the vacuum switch. What in the hell is the one in the block for? Better yet, how the hell am I going to run my electric fan now? I have seen those inline hose adapters with the fittings in them, and I may have to go that route, but I really don't want to because it will look like shit. Adding a T isn't really an option either as I have heard that plain just doesn't work most of the time and you won't get accurate gauge readings, or worse, my fan might not kick on. Any suggestions?
 

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You shouldn't need a temp controlled vacuum switch anymore, so you should be able to replace that with the thermal switch for the fan.

You can replace the 2 wire temp sender that you have for the ECM, with a 3 wire unit from a late '90s 3100 or 3400, that will have the same two wires for the ECM (Ground [black] and signal [yellow]), plus a third wire for the gauge (green). You will need to grab the connector for that CTS too. This connector is the same as the small round TPS connector. Using this sensor, should open up a spot for the thermal switch where the sender for the gauge would have normally been.

I would try to get the thermal fan control switch as close to the thermostat as possible.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Discussion Starter #99
So the whole you cut was 2-3/8" hole saw? Instead of 2-1/4?
Is that what you meant? I has run my harness, however it has this same rubber grommet and if I cut a hole it should fit right in it with no issues :)

Yeah, but upon further inspection? It's a tiz too big. Not a big deal, but 2 1/4 is what you need. I hacked a grommet for test fitting off a junker, and also drilled holes in scrap metal before I drilled. It is really 2 1/4.


You shouldn't need a temp controlled vacuum switch anymore, so you should be able to replace that with the thermal switch for the fan.

You can replace the 2 wire temp sender that you have for the ECM, with a 3 wire unit from a late '90s 3100 or 3400, that will have the same two wires for the ECM (Ground [black] and signal [yellow]), plus a third wire for the gauge (green). You will need to grab the connector for that CTS too. This connector is the same as the small round TPS connector. Using this sensor, should open up a spot for the thermal switch where the sender for the gauge would have normally been.

I would try to get the thermal fan control switch as close to the thermostat as possible.
There is a factory vac switch in the intake that has two hoses on it. Are you saying I can delete that? And thanks for the tip on the dual use sensor. What was the one in the head? I can't remember what it actually is for.

Also, I think I am going to leave the rest of the harness stock. Off that relay, I only have to run that one wire back to the fuel pump? Is that right? Just looks like a mighty chintzy wire to supply enough current to run the pump to me.


Now I have another head scratcher. I wired up my VSS today, ran my CEL, which was easy as hell because there is already a place for it in the cluster. Just pulled a pin from another harness, followed the printed circuit soldered together with the pin from the ECM...and bam. I also finished the fuse box and connected the pink/blk and orange wires to the new isolated fuse box. The crank wire I still have to connect...no biggie. Off the ALDL I have a cut tan with a black stripe and nowhere for it to go. The schematics show some pretty weird stuff that I may not have on my truck. Schematic shows as TCC. I am assuming that is Torque Converter Clutch? Since I am using the existing stuff to control the shifting, I don't think I need this at all do I?

And the weirdest thing. I realize that the 86+ truck uses a different neutral/park switch than the older truck. What surprised me was that when I dropped the column? There was nothing connected. The black/orange wire was lying loose under the carpet, and the orange/black was hooked to an adapter on the fuse box (which fit). Now granted the last genius to work on this was me, and I had the truck in a zillion pieces. I had removed the cruise control on this truck, and I am kinda thinking this might be why it was connected this way? Anybody got a picture of a later column so I can see what I am supposed to have hooked up....and how? Better yet, does that ECM orange/black wire just need to see 12v? If it does, I don't really give a crap and I will bypass the switch. Thanks guys.

I would have NEVER gotten this done without your help. REALLY REALLY appreciate it!! MANY THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT HAS HELPED ME!!

Here is some pix.

These are the ones that come off the ALDL


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These are the two that are already on my truck. As said the black/orange one was laying loose, the orange/black one was on the fuse box, and the safety switch had nothing on it at all. Colors are washed out in pic, but the left one is orange/black, and the right one is black/orange.


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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Discussion Starter #100
Guess I am off to the junkyard to see what I can find. I like going to the junkyard for some reason....always have. Is that weird?
 
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