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If you really think you'll be doing this, I suggest you go ahead and get the fittings ordered. Summit shows them in stock and I waited over a month for mine. Then at least you have them. Dropping the tranny isn't all that horrible. Gives you a reason to change tranny fluid and inspect the clutch as well as get some new fluid through the clutch hydrolics.
i have a 96 2.2 do you have to pull the tranny?
 

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I found the compression fitting. I bought one a year ago for my fuel line and they have changed since...now they have an integrated tube that fits the inside diameter, but only if you're using metal tube. At least, at parts stores that's how it is. A hardware store had the old style with nothing for the inside diameter. They also had separate inserts that fit the inside diameter; I bought them to help prevent it from being crushed.
7,000 mostly non-highway miles later, still working great. :)
 

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DEPTHXPERCEPTION
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Whats up forum. This is my first post and first mini project. Ive wanted to build one of these for alot of years now. Just bought this truck. Its a 98. On 20's and I have the 5 speed tranny with the 2.2 motor. I have to replace the clutch line and do a relocation of the clutch master cylinder. When its fully layed the wheels pushes up on it and it ended up breaking it. As far as the relocation goes where did you guys relocate it to? I plan on taking alot of photos while I complete this and add to this post. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Im planning on a set of black 20's and a matte black paint job with a dope bed enclosure. Dont wanna do a cowl hood so im working with some ideas on that. This truck is going to be my learning curve and eventually id like to build a 1st gen. I will have some more photos by this weekend and would appreciate the guidance.
 

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Found a shop near me that could just put the stainless braided line on the stock fittings. Already installed in my truck and running great. If you want more info on the shop, PM me. The guy did it for $40. For those of us running a model with an internal slave...this would be a good alternative to dropping the tranny to get to the slave.







actually heres their website too:
http://www.gandjaircraft.net/index-1.html

any update on this? So your able to remove that larger end without pulling the transmission!?! What length hose did ya get?


My damn line blew out on me driving home tonight... so joy i guess i get to do this mod too. :(
 

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Audi Tech
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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
That large end is pretty much a PTC. The white sleeve area needs to be pushed in if I recall and that end pops out. Theres a pic on the first page of the whole unit together, you can see the white ring sticking out and see what it looks like in the pics from Helgaiden with it out.
 

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This thread was VERY helpful, as I have done my proper initiation by burning through my clutch hose with my new header....

'94 2.2l, installed new intake and exhaust. Got it done, and in the failing light of evening I failed to notice that my new header touched the clutch hose. Fired it up for a test ride, and by the time I got the shop gate opened I had no clutch!!

After finding out that the hose is not available, I found this thread (the forums in general have been very helpful, and I dig the vibe here.) and we're off!

The reason I'm adding my 2p is because I went to my local Parker Store, operated by Hoses & Fittings, Etc. with my old hose. I was informed that they could not re-use the stock fittings. I didn't want to have to order Russell fittings, and wait for ever for my DAILY DRIVER (the gas mileage in my Chevota FJ40 would have killed me!!). So, to the rescue I found some fittings that do the trick, and may be more readily available than the Russells.

The fittings are Brake Quip P/N: HF62



I had them use DOT SS braided line, and since it was no extra...it's red.



The cost was just under $70.00. I've seen cheaper, but this Is the bay area, and after all, it only took about 20 minutes to have the hose made. I even had them slide on the OEM foam sound suppressor.

The nipple on this fitting is about 2mm longer than OEM, I have installed the line with the fitting unmodified and it seems the extra length has no negative effect. It seems to have sealed properly, and it installed in a snap!



You can see that since it's a 90' fitting it comes off of the master cylinder in a nice, tidy manner.



Comes off the slave cylinder nicely, too.

Thanks again guys, this thread saved a ton of aggravation, time, and even some money!! Sweet!

On the preview, the pics didn't show, so here's a link to the picasa web album I'm keeping of the truck if you want to check them out:

https://picasaweb.google.com/geoffv...authkey=Gv1sRgCNfP_7Xi3Omq4AE&feat=directlink
 

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1996 4.3 5 speed xtra cab
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485 Posts
This thread was VERY helpful, as I have done my proper initiation by burning through my clutch hose with my new header....

'94 2.2l, installed new intake and exhaust. Got it done, and in the failing light of evening I failed to notice that my new header touched the clutch hose. Fired it up for a test ride, and by the time I got the shop gate opened I had no clutch!!

After finding out that the hose is not available, I found this thread (the forums in general have been very helpful, and I dig the vibe here.) and we're off!

The reason I'm adding my 2p is because I went to my local Parker Store, operated by Hoses & Fittings, Etc. with my old hose. I was informed that they could not re-use the stock fittings. I didn't want to have to order Russell fittings, and wait for ever for my DAILY DRIVER (the gas mileage in my Chevota FJ40 would have killed me!!). So, to the rescue I found some fittings that do the trick, and may be more readily available than the Russells.

The fittings are Brake Quip P/N: HF62



I had them use DOT SS braided line, and since it was no extra...it's red.



The cost was just under $70.00. I've seen cheaper, but this Is the bay area, and after all, it only took about 20 minutes to have the hose made. I even had them slide on the OEM foam sound suppressor.

The nipple on this fitting is about 2mm longer than OEM, I have installed the line with the fitting unmodified and it seems the extra length has no negative effect. It seems to have sealed properly, and it installed in a snap!



You can see that since it's a 90' fitting it comes off of the master cylinder in a nice, tidy manner.



Comes off the slave cylinder nicely, too.

Thanks again guys, this thread saved a ton of aggravation, time, and even some money!! Sweet!

On the preview, the pics didn't show, so here's a link to the picasa web album I'm keeping of the truck if you want to check them out:

https://picasaweb.google.com/geoffv...authkey=Gv1sRgCNfP_7Xi3Omq4AE&feat=directlink
Wow, your lucky your slave is on the outside. I wouldnt even mentioned what happend if you had the NV3500. 30 cents worth of tie straps.:)
 

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The one advantage to having a '95...I think I originally wrote '94....same thing though as far as the slave goes, though.

Mine's got the double platinum engine, factory supercharger......:haha:
 

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How long of a line are you guys using for a stock location master? I have mine torn apart finally at the shop but need to order a 3an hose to use and I already tossed my factory line.....

Is 36" long enough?
 

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Anyone use this mod to replace their plastic slave cylinder with an older style cast iron one with a bleeder screw you can actually put a hose on? looks like the bores are the same, I've switched a '92 out to a cast iron slave and the master to match, it was a bolt in but my '95 has a different mounting location for the master. My reason for wanting a cast iron slave is that I can never seem to get the plastic ones bled out right.
 

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Guess I forgot to reply to this thread, but the replacement line is now available. I simply went down to the Advance auto and picked one up for around 60 bucks,They overnight ordered it in for me.

Installing the line was way easier then I expected, popped that quick disconnect fitting on the slave cylinder apart, removed the clip on the clutch pedal, twisted the master 1/4 turn and pulled it off the firewall, then slide the line and master out of the truck. Using a small drift pin, pushed the roll pin out, switched the new replacement line and pushed the roll pin back in. Before installing the line I wrapped it in 3 layers of that plastic wire covering stuff and then reinstalled everything. The last step was to bleed the system, the bleeder screw is sticking out the side of the tranny right beside the clutch line connection.
 

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Parts I used in my clutch hose changeover to braided ss line thanks to this thread...

1) Russell # 640281 / -3 AN SAE Adapter Fittings - $23.00

- for master cylinder and release bearing

2) Earl's # 966303 / Steel 90-Degree -3AN Swivel Female to -3AN Male Adapter - $16.00

- for use on MC fitting to make 90 degree turn so I could use a cheaper cost straight fitting hose

3) Braided SS Teflon Lined Hose # PRE-840 / -3 an 40" Braided Brake Line Straight Ends - $19.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-an-40-Bra...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item35aef8fbcc&vxp=mtr

** really nice line that is DOT approved as well as Teflon lined for use with brake fluid. Perfect for this app.

Total under $60.00. If the line ever fails.. $20 to replace.
 

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7,000 mostly non-highway miles later, still working great. :)
Now 3 years and 55,000 miles later, I never expected any part of my project to last this long but almost all of it has -- including the temporary hack of splicing the hard plastic hydraulic clutch hose with compression fittings from the plumbing section at the hardware store.
 
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