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Discussion Starter #1
1992 S10, T5, 2.5 engine. Got the transmission replaced with a T5 from a 1991. Do I need to switch over the master cylinder/slave cylinder etc from a 1992 to 1991?

Truck wouldn't start, would turn over but not fire if you pressed the pedal hard. Tried pushing harder, bent the push rod. Yeah, I know--now--I need to bleed the system. Since I can't seem to find just a replacement push rod, I'm probably going to wind up replacing the master cylinder just to get the push rod. Do I need to replace the master cylinder, master and slave, or can I replace with a 1992?

Yeah, it was a long day. . . .
 

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the new guy
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and you can do just the master, or both as a pre-bled kit. its up to you. they are cheap on rockauto as I just bought the pre-bled kit for my son's 92 last week and for my 98 a month ago. more than half cheaper then from the local auto parts place.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Clutch safety switch is intact, we realized the fork had fallen off. Removed transmission, swapped bellhousings, replaced the fork with the one from the '92 transmission, and then re-installed the transmission. Still figuring out clutch problems, suspect it needs bled more.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks D-D. Not sure what's going on. Clutch pedal feels much like brakes when they need to be bled. Push the clutch, feels like nothing. Pump it a few times, it's OK. Drive for 20 miles on the highway, pump the clutch while stopping to be sure there is pressure to get back in gear. No decrease in fluid level, so pretty sure it isn't a leak.

Today's project is getting the '92 shift back on the '91 shift lever. I'm going to make up some dummy screws I can use to align the cover with the screw holes, and use screws about 1/4" longer to install, just for ease of installation. I also want to get a new exhaust donut installed where we separated the pipes. Drove home last night with an exhaust leak venting into the cab through the hole in the transmission hump, not sure if this headache is going to go away today. I'll pick up parts when I return the unneeded slave cylinder etc.

For anyone doing a similar swap:

Check the part numbers on the slave cylinder for the old transmission and the replacement transmission. The major differences seem to be in the length of the push shaft. In my case ('91 transmission going into a '92), swapping bell housings made it so we could use the original slave cylinder. Also, once removed from the firewall, we were able to dis-assemble the old master cylinder and remove the old rod. Follow the instructions to install the rod after the master cylinder is mounted on the firewall.

The easy way to fill the transmission after replacement is via a hose and funnel, through the hole in the floor for the shift lever. Feed the hose in from above, fill, carefully remove so you don't get fluid everywhere.

It probably wouldn't hurt to arbitrarily replace the U-joints while you have the drive shaft off.

My truck has an access port cut into the fender behind the right front tire. This allowed (relatively) convenient access to the starter.

When installing the transmission, once you have it in but before bolting it all back together, remove the imspection plate cover on the driver's side of the transmission and make sure you didn't bump or break the fork. This would have saved us the time and effort of another R&R. Before installing the shift lever, make sure the little sleeve inside the hole for the shift lever is in place. If not, you won't have 1/3/5. DAMHIKT.
 
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