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Clutch fan on 98 blazer

14K views 32 replies 8 participants last post by  rat  
#1 ·
Recently I had to replace the water pump on my 98 Blazer. I couldn't get the clutch and fan seperated from the water pump so I decided with 122,000 mi, I may as well replace the clutch for the fan as well so I just hacked the old one off. Anyway, the old fan clutch only used to make the fan "roar" when the truck was first warming up. After that I never really heard or noticed the fan at all even in over 100 degree weather. My engine has never run hot and the temp has always been just before half way on my guage. With the new fan clutch the fan seems to be "roaring" more than not. I'll be sitting at a stop light and when I take off the fan is "roaring" up to really high rpms without disengaging. Is this normal? Feels like it's robbing my engine from power as well.

Thanks
 
#3 ·
Get an electric fan from a late 80's camarom very easy swap and works great. Some of the after market clutches disengage the clutch at different rpm;s
 
#4 ·
Lenny95NeoN said:
Is there a break in time on the new fan clutch? I never liked the noise my fan made while I was driving.
I jumped on the E-fan bandwagon and I have only had one regret. Not getting a better battery first.

Just thought I'd toss in my $ .02
I would actually prefer to go with an electric fan if I can. I was looking at electric fan kits at several different auto stores and all of them recommend these fans as a secondary cooling fan but not for use as a primary. If I knew exactly what to get, perhaps I'd join you on that E-fan bandwagon.

992drjimmy,

If I knew exactly what to get I would.

I'd need a list of components and are these electric conversion able to keep the engine well cooled?

Thanks again.
 
#6 ·
Lenny95NeoN said:
Do a search for e-fan and there is a long but very informative thread about it. You can fab your own set up, or U can but a ready made kit.
Would you happen to know the link? I did a search but it was pretty long and most of what I got was people using fans from 80's camaros and ford taurus's. Not much about installing though. I'll keep looking.

thanks
 
#7 · (Edited)
98Blazer98 said:
Would you happen to know the link? I did a search but it was pretty long and most of what I got was people using fans from 80's camaros and ford taurus's. Not much about installing though. I'll keep looking.

thanks
http://www.s-seriesforum.com/how-to-efan.html

Edit: my tauaus fan keeps my motor cooled on 90* days on the low speed in traffic no problem. Voltage drops at idle though, some of the kits like the flexalite and permacool pull less amps than the tauraus fan.
 
#8 ·
I've been fighting for days to get my 2000 S10 4.3 fan clutch off.
I even rented a removal kit from Autozone but i don't think they gave me the proper tools...the guy even said when i brought it back that they always have issues with GM removal tools there...

I got a 15 inch cresent...that can grab the bolt pretty good...
And i tried to use 1/8 alum bar stock and drill a hole in it and put a pully bolt through it and brace it with the frame from the bottom when i turn the clutch bolt clockwise...and the bar stock bent...and ripped the aluminum at the bolt...
I'm catching hell on this thing...
I looked at the HTML provided above...and it didn't show me how to get that friggin thing off....just said he used a 13mm wrench braced and it wasn't a good idea...( can see why ) any other tricks anybody knows?

help!
 
#9 ·
I usualy use a large cressent wrench, and i try to wedge a screwdriver on the small bolts that hold the pulley on. Leave the belt on the vehicle. Or use a strap wrench to hold the waterpump pulley.

Make sure you are turning it the right way too. I think it is standard threads(counter clockwise to get it off). It should come off if you turn it in the direction that it turns normaly when the engine is on.
 
#11 ·
vision00 said:
I've been fighting for days to get my 2000 S10 4.3 fan clutch off.
I even rented a removal kit from Autozone but i don't think they gave me the proper tools...the guy even said when i brought it back that they always have issues with GM removal tools there...

I got a 15 inch cresent...that can grab the bolt pretty good...
And i tried to use 1/8 alum bar stock and drill a hole in it and put a pully bolt through it and brace it with the frame from the bottom when i turn the clutch bolt clockwise...and the bar stock bent...and ripped the aluminum at the bolt...
I'm catching hell on this thing...
I looked at the HTML provided above...and it didn't show me how to get that friggin thing off....just said he used a 13mm wrench braced and it wasn't a good idea...( can see why ) any other tricks anybody knows?

help!
I ended up buying a really long blade for my sawzall and hacked the thing off. It only took about 60 seconds but I had to by a new fan clutch which is what lead me here. Now the new one is noisy and working too much..

Im still looking in to the electric conversion. I'll probably go that way once I have all of the information and am satisfied that I can make it look professional and feel confident it will be reliable. I have no intentions on ever selling the truck.
 
#13 ·
Here is the original thread from the S-10CREWCAB.COM - LT1 Electric Cooling Fans

For those who do not feel comfortable with the modifications required , or unable to find a used fan set-
Flex-a-lite website
Image

Flex-a-lite #210 Dual 12" fans with control-$235.88
Summit racing said:
Low profile, big output.

Flex-a-lite low-profile electric fans have the lowest profile available, yet flow up to 2,500 cfm. They have lightweight nylon shrouds with full-contact rubber seals, and some even offer several choices of shroud color. There's also an optional, adjustable thermostat and air conditioning relay, as well as a manual override switch to shut down the fan for mud racing or water crossings. A wiring diagram and installation instructions in English, Spanish, and French are included.
There are a couple people using this fan set for the increased clearances, and all in one "kit" appeal. I guess it works, since one of those guys is running an LS1.
 
#15 ·
rat said:
I usualy use a large cressent wrench,
Check!
15 inch cressent in hand.


rat said:
Make sure you are turning it the right way too. I think it is standard threads(counter clockwise to get it off). It should come off if you turn it in the direction that it turns normaly when the engine is on.
You sure?
I have read a few places its backwards threaded .... to turn it clockwise to get the nut off....
Can anybody clear this up for me? (although what you said makes sense) looks like i've been trying to turn the damn thing the wrong way if so........which would be a relief actually.
 
#17 ·
vision00 said:
...I have read a few places its backwards threaded .... to turn it clockwise to get the nut off....
Can anybody clear this up for me?
The Chevys with the serpentine belt have a reverse rotation water pump. The nut is turned counter clock wise while facing the waterpump. "Lefty Loosey" . It is right hand threads. Standard threaded.

It will be seated tightly. Give the wrench a whack to break it loose. No amount of muscle will push it loose easily.

Ford's do use left hand threads and turn off the wrong way.
 
#19 ·
HenryJ said:
The Chevys with the serpentine belt have a reverse rotation water pump. The nut is turned counter clock wise while facing the waterpump. "Lefty Loosey" . It is right hand threads. Standard threaded.

It will be seated tightly. Give the wrench a whack to break it loose. No amount of muscle will push it loose easily.

Ford's do use left hand threads and turn off the wrong way.
<hangs head in shame>
Damnit damnit damnit.........
Lots of time wasted due to misinformation....
Thanks for the clarification man....
I'll smack it and let you guys know how bad I monkey this up...

Thanks alot fellas!
 
#20 ·
#21 ·
When you get the system filled up loosen the radiator cap, or flip the lever if you have one. Squeeze the upper radiator hose to purge the air to the expansion tank. Do this several times.
Make sure that the expansion tank is filled to the full hot mark, and check the level after a good warm-up cool down cycle.

Good luck :D
 
#26 ·
vision00 said:
where do i put the sensor in the radiator?

which hose is the input hose?

Directions say put it very close in the radiator fins to the input.
Upper drivers side is input.