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cardboard cantilever madness!

10664 Views 60 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  Ednigma
ok so alot of people cant grasp the cantilever thing and im going to design a quick set based on what i think laynlow is looking to do, with a 24 in. bar and 50/50 split parralled with the upper 4 link bar as the cantilever and show you how i would go about laying them out on cardboard to see if they would work. now with that said im open to all constructive criticism and if you have a better way of designing them on CARDBOARD please by all means ad to it i would like this or someone betters idea to be a sticky so people realize its not so hard to lay something out on cardboard.

ok so i drew a straight line to represent the ground or pavement so you have a square place to measure from and these are the tools i will use.

now a 20 in. wheel with tire depending on size usually comes up just shy or around 27 in. take half that witch is 13.5 add a half in. so your not bottoming out the bag and you get 14 in. that would be the center of your axle

i based this off a 2.5 in. center bolt tab from the edge of the axle, now i usually like to move that center point back a half in. for pinion adjustments and just a little slack to adjust

this setup is based off a 24 in. bar with the center point of the lower bar being 3 in. off the ground measure and mark

now between the 2 tabs off the rear from center point to center point of the bolt holes i measured 7 3/4

now in this picture the left is the bottom i measure 7 3/4 from the center point of the lower bar mount and make my mark, that will be the center point as the front upper bar mount (keeping these measurement the same with the same bar lengths make no binding if parallel)

the circles represent your standard 2 in. bar ends on most of our 4 links

this measurement is off the upper bar center point to achieve a 50/50 (bag mounted half way on the bar, same thing) so a 24 in bar with a bag mounted mid way would be 12 in. that would be 50/50 so in a cantilever your just remote mounting the bag. so i go 12 in. above because he wanted the bag facing the cab on a cross member

center of this bag is the previous mark 12 in. above the circle you see below this is were the bag will be mounted

he wants an re8 so this is marked out at 8 in. the width of the bag. the top of most bags measure 5 1/4 wide, this is marked out

this is the horrible crappy bag in place at its collasped hieght of 3 in.

now at this point you have designed the geometry of your cantilever arms they meet your requirements so now you just have to add your design to them first thing that came to my mind as i walked out of my living room into my kitchen (yes i did this in my living room watching tv having a beer (pbr) is the pizza tray in the sink

this is after connecting a few center points with the perimeter of the pizza tray at 2 in. from inside to outside walls.

and the lower for shtz in giggles

the dog dish was plan b for some curves

cut her out and lets see how this thing performs?

this is the bottom pivot point with a screw in it (acting as a bolt)

ok so its all set up bag in place collapsed at 3 in. screw in pivot point

tape in place to measure lift

screw to mark were the upper axle mt is in your laid out truck

the bag inflated to 12 in. measured out (you wont get this much axle rotation because of how i did the axle on cardboard i never used the bottom mount for the lift)

mark it with a second screw or nail so you can measure the axle lift

we got 13 1/2 in lift wahooooooooooo!
i hope you guys like this and it turns into something thats more of a how too and others add theyre knowledge and a step by step how to. there are millions of ways to layout a cantilever arm but this is one that i banged out in an hour and a half now go cut one out!
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awesome! 13.5" of lift will do nicely
(keyword for myself to search for, when I get another truck and do this.)
the distance you measure off your pivot point will give you more or less lift just measure for the 3 points and see what you get with the bag placement and lift then connect the dots with you design
Doesn't the distance bw the pivot of the cantilever and the lower link bar need to be the same as the distance of the bracket on the axle?

The way it looks, the bracket has a smaller distance bw the two pivot points which would make pinion change quite a bit with that much lift right?
yea they are both 7 3/4 axle brackets center to center and the mounts of the front link bars are 7 3/4 center to center
Never mind I see the measurements which show that they are parallel...
the cantilever is only lift at this point will not create any binding if its setup parallel like it is
Right... now one thing I have always wondered is does the bag expanding more on one side than the other affect how it rides? Or can the bag push out in the center?

When I had my bagged truck I had the airbar and shockwaves so it wasn't an issue
think of the as the front of any bagged truck with any other bag, yes the bag bellows but no it doesnt affect it that much as long as your not over doing it
I dont know much about canti's, but you sure make it look easy.
you know man you make yourself look dumb ( i dont now much about cantis but i can lay my truck out on 22s) I DONT GET IT MATT this part is easy you did the hard part
Good tutorial, Just be careful with how long the bag side of the canti is. It looks a little short, which can make it very easy to over extend the far side of the bag.
completely rite, i want people to know how to do this, thats not hard. i recognize it as the guy dragging trying to let all the psi out of his bags at 80 mph its not gonna work. but the guy doing 60 with a well laid out suspension with 20 psi dragging will do just fine dragin and cruisen for hours on end. im no pro but i think i have a good grasp on this and im no genius so i think i can break this down for the others that are at my level
ill trade ya cantis for 22s

lol, i better hold on to the 22s for a lil bit
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