No nothing else besides concern with rounding them. Thanks for the info.
Can't seem to help myself . . .Still NUTS about lugnuts 🤪
Lugnuts, I learned, (info from some Forum members, thanks, to all of you), on my 2003 S10, are, by GM Standards, 19mm.
My 19mm sockets (Sears Craftsman and AutoZone Duralast) both do an adequate job to loosen/tighten them, whether by hand, or by impact wrench.
Adequate = Acceptable amount of slack in the socket-on-nut fit.
I think a socket of size 23/32" will work better, comparing to a 19mm socket.
I call a socket an excellent fit (not simply adequate) as long as it satisfies:
1. Socket goes onto and comes off from lugnuts easily
2. Socket fits snugly on lugnuts, (in particular, more snugly than my 19mm sockets).
It took me a long time to find that sized socket in stock. I spent hours online and on the phone, with tool companies that I know about, or learned about.
Initially I had no luck ("Not in stock"), working with USA companies. It gradually became a mystery to me, what is the big taboo with that BadBoy size?
A Lowe's tool department clerk checked, found that size not in stock, but then asked me, "What is this socket for, anyway?" He understood my explanation.
I finally found a company (Thanks, Google) that stocks one - - a company in Scotland. I ordered one, and it's on the way. Before ordering I asked them how far apart are 2 opposing flat surfaces inside their socket. They said about 18.5 mm. I checked a sample lugnut here, with a metric micrometer, so the idea got a green light.
I will let you know, later on, whether or not it works.
I might get reported to the OCD police. They will come and get me, if they find out what I've been up to.
My 19mm sockets (Sears Craftsman and AutoZone Duralast) both do an adequate job to loosen/tighten them, whether by hand, or by impact wrench.
Adequate = Acceptable amount of slack in the socket-on-nut fit.
I think a socket of size 23/32" will work better, comparing to a 19mm socket.
I call a socket an excellent fit (not simply adequate) as long as it satisfies:
1. Socket goes onto and comes off from lugnuts easily
2. Socket fits snugly on lugnuts, (in particular, more snugly than my 19mm sockets).
It took me a long time to find that sized socket in stock. I spent hours online and on the phone, with tool companies that I know about, or learned about.
Initially I had no luck ("Not in stock"), working with USA companies. It gradually became a mystery to me, what is the big taboo with that BadBoy size?
A Lowe's tool department clerk checked, found that size not in stock, but then asked me, "What is this socket for, anyway?" He understood my explanation.
I finally found a company (Thanks, Google) that stocks one - - a company in Scotland. I ordered one, and it's on the way. Before ordering I asked them how far apart are 2 opposing flat surfaces inside their socket. They said about 18.5 mm. I checked a sample lugnut here, with a metric micrometer, so the idea got a green light.
I will let you know, later on, whether or not it works.
I might get reported to the OCD police. They will come and get me, if they find out what I've been up to.
1 - 15 of 36 Posts
Yes, 13/16" used to be the size of impact socket, to fit onto a breaker bar, and stow in a toolbox, ready for lugnuts, back in the day.Good ole 13/16 😁
Your idea is excellent, I think. Although . . . You would have made Don Rickles jealous. Lugnuts (Lugnut) is way better than Hockey Puck.You should change you forum ID to Lugnuts.
Scissor jack measurement ? That is funny, got me a good chuckle.did you measure the lug nut wrench that comes with the scissor jack?
none of my 19mm or 3/4" sockets have visibably rounded lug nuts on anything in my experience. you would be better off just snatching some exta lug nuts from the junkyard for whatever peace of mind you need.
I soon will take some photos (and share them) of the S10 nuts, which I am claiming to be starting to get rounded (decided not to say "my" there in front of the word "nuts", you understand
Thanks for the info, Magic17. I had no idea such sockets exist.I have half size Impact flip-sockets - 18.5/19.5, 21/21.5, 22/22.5 and they really help. Especially with the metal cap style lug nuts.
A tool department clerk, who also didn't know what you know, joked "There are no 18.5 mm sockets" and we laughed together, but that joke was on us.
Can you tell more about the brand name of your half-sized sockets? For example, are they are part of a complete socket set. . . or . . . if can they be purchased individually.?
Wow, 1/2 millimeter in fractional inches, is about 1/4 of the way between 1/64 and 2/64 which is a really small increment.
(Per Windows 10 calculator - - 0.5 mm = 0.0196850393700787 " = 1.259842519685039 / 64
I deserve your scolding . . . I yield. I admit I never checked to see if I have over-tightened any lugnuts by accompanying any tightening processes with my torque wrench.im talking about the tire iron behind the seat in the roadside emergency kit... apparently i am confusing which one of my gm products uses the tire iron as the scissor jack's handle...<?>
either way, your concern of rounding lugnuts with 3/4" or 19mm sockets is unfounded...
impact sockets have generally looser tolerances than chrome sockets and you could literally rip a lugnut off with an impact and an impact socket from craftsman, husky, stanley, kobalt, gearwrench, etc then re-torque it and repeat that process for a whole week non-stop without rounding the lugnut.... now if you re-tighten it with the impact and overtorque it then maybe you will round some crap but thats what torque wrenches are for...
Thanks, that'll give me an experiment to do pretty soon.
I agree with you about everything you said, but I won't give up my claim that a 23/32" socket will be better fit than 19mm socket.
Interesting thing I did not know, chrome sockets fit more closely than impact sockets for a given size. Only one problem I had some years ago, I was using a chrome socket on a breaker bar, for a lugnut on my 1963 Dodge 330 that had a flat tire. Some monkey working at a tire repair place may have previously over-torqued my lugnuts.
I only had chrome sockets, but I was glad I had a breaker bar. The bar is an 18". I did not use a cheater pipe with it.
You probably guessed the rest. The socket split when I tried removing the lugnut. It was tow truck time.
Thanks, needawheel, I appreciate your help. I should have realized that the word "scolding" was not correct. On my part maybe it was TMC (Too Much Coffee) when I wrote that reply. Good idea about getting some extra lugnuts. I may have to go to Phoenix junkyards. There are a couple local ones here, and 3 in Tucson. 2 of the Tucson ones keep inventory and they told me that they have NO Chevy S10 trucks on their lots. The third junkyard did tell me they have one, and I visited it a few months ago, to find it without wheels and raised on supports.im not scolding you, im helping you... you have to use a torque wrench on lug nuts.
on a '63 i would think you would likely have a rust issue more than anything else.
either way your 'perfect lugnut socket' quest is pointless, additionally because you are also only looking at the sockets... what about the variations in lug nuts? what if theres some dirt or corrosion caked up on there and you are roadside in the middle of nowhere? oops your socket is too tight and you cant get the caked on dirt off or its too tight to scrape the rust...
just find another s10 at the yard next time you are there and pop off the extra lugnuts you need and be done. dont even make a special trip. its not worth it.
on a '63 i would think you would likely have a rust issue:
i had to use a high torque impact on the lugnuts of a vehicle with steel wheels once. it hadnt had one wheel removed in probably a decade and had likely been in a highly corrosive environment to boot. they finally came off with a high torque impact on speed 3. the wheel itself required extensive beating with a hammer to get it off the hub... i even drove it around the neighborhood with loose lugnuts and jerked the wheel around and it still wouldnt budge <not safe>
and just because i feel you may not be aware, you dont want to leave grease, anti seize, or lube on lugnuts or wheel studs because it will throw off the torque wrench. just wire brush corrosion off the studs and lug nuts as necessary and torque them dry.
Phoenix is a much larger metropolis and I assume there are many more choices. I need an excuse to drive up there. For me, Tucson is 100 miles NW of us (Interstate 10), and Phoenix is another 100 miles north of there (continuing on Interstate 10)
well in that case just order some in or try to figure out what vehicles use the same lug nuts.
car-part.com has searchable inventory for most full service yards
row52.com has searchable inventory for most you pull it yards
Thanks, needawheel, that is very good to know. Will save me a 400+ mile round trip in case I do go to Phoenix.well in that case just order some in or try to figure out what vehicles use the same lug nuts.
car-part.com has searchable inventory for most full service yards
row52.com has searchable inventory for most you pull it yards
Thanks, Rhotpursuit, will do.Ask @bk2life he’s the king of junkyards in Phoenix.
well in that case just order some in or try to figure out what vehicles use the same lug nuts.
car-part.com has searchable inventory for most full service yards
row52.com has searchable inventory for most you pull it yards
Sorry, bktolife, I sent you that conversation opening, which arrived to you out of context. I can explain. I was talking to some other Forum members and the topic of junkyards came up.what exactly are you wanting information on?
the lug nut thread/pitch?
maybe its all the youle time action going on, but, i dont understand...
I will copy and paste that bit ot Forum talk so you will understand:
needawheel had just recommended that I get a supply of lugnuts at a junkyard, and I replied about availability of junkyards near me. Below is what we were saying
2Seater2003 said:
Thanks, needawheel, I appreciate your help. I should have realized that the word "scolding" was not correct. On my part maybe it was TMC (Too Much Coffee) when I wrote that reply. Good idea about getting some extra lugnuts. I may have to go to Phoenix junkyards. There are a couple local ones here, and 3 in Tucson. 2 of the Tucson ones keep inventory and they told me that they have NO Chevy S10 trucks on their lots. The third junkyard did tell me they have one, and I visited it a few months ago, to find it without wheels and raised on supports.
Phoenix is a much larger metropolis and I assume there are many more choices. I need an excuse to drive up there. For me, Tucson is 100 miles NW of us (Interstate 10), and Phoenix is another 100 miles north of there (continuing on Interstate 10)
needawheel said:
well in that case just order some in or try to figure out what vehicles use the same lug nuts.
car-part.com has searchable inventory for most full service yards
row52.com has searchable inventory for most you pull it yards
Rhotpursuit said:
Ask @bk2life he’s the king of junkyards in Phoenix.
Thanks, Rhotpursuit, will do.
I am really grateful to you about your offer. Someone on the Forum advised me to get some extra lugnuts for my 2003 S10 and they further advised that a junkyard is a good place to get them without paying a fortune from a Chevy dealer for new ones.right, so you just want lug nuts? im still confused? i probably have 30 or 40 in the shop somewhere i can give you. Is there a reason, or something specific youre looking for? I probbly have some left hand thread scout lug nuts as well
. . .
I don't actually seek any extra lugnuts, but when the topic of junkyards came up, I naturally asked more questions, and pretty soon someone suggested asking you.
. . .
I need junkyard help for something completely different. Someone did a midnight parts store job on my S10 and stole the trim at the top edge of the door, which comes in contact with the window, from the passenger side of the truck. I have to replace it or else try to fabricate something. Please see my 2 file attachments to this message. I photographed the driver side trim so you could see what I mean. The other file attachment is a scan from a Chevy dealer showing that I can't buy a new one to replace the one that was stolen. If I want to replace it, it'll be a junkyard. It also shows something strange. The driver side trim is way less expensive than the passenger side trim, although the two parts are made of the same components, simply reverse of each other.
. . .
I may soon be visiting the Phoenix Pull-A-Part and I thank you for referring it. I need that replacement part, because for now the passenger side window is duct taped shut to keep out the rain and dust. Bad side effect is now that window can't be lowered.
. . .
I duct-taped my driver side trim because I don't want to have than one stolen. Looks tacky, but I haven't come up with a better way to make it a little more securely-attached.
OK, will do. Thanks for the advice. I forgot to mention, if the passenger window is rolled partway down, or all the way down, the glass goes out of the track. Raising it back up is difficult. I guess a new plan is remove the window crank. The passenger might forgot to not roll it down, but if there is no crank, they can't roll it down.Get rid of the duct tape pronto. It deteriorates rapidly w/ exterior exposure, and the remaining adhesive residue/ fiber mess is a real PITA to clean up, and even worse on painted surfaces.
OK, will do. Thanks for the advice. I forgot to mention, if the passenger window is rolled partway down, or all the way down, the glass goes out of the track. Raising it back up is difficult. I guess a new plan is remove the window crank. The passenger might forgot to not roll it down, but if there is no crank, they can't roll it down.That piece isn't water or dust proof, I wouldn't worry about it. I would find a replacement but I wouldn't tape it up, no reason to really.
I agree. Thanks.It sounds like at some point, you'll need to remove the door panel, and examine the window regulator/ tracks to find the problem.
My driver side trim piece needed to be pried with a screw driver, to remove it (I experimented, but it was after the passenger side trim had disappeared. Maybe the passenger side was a lot looser. . . And maybe nobody robbed me. Thanks for your info, needawheel.mine is loose enough to occasionally jump up and down while driving down the highway.
it might be taped down to prevent it from flying off... i can unfortunately see it happening.
1 - 15 of 36 Posts
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