[S15E83]

OBX

Don’t even attempt to replace your stock manifolds without a bottle of AC Delco heat valve penetrant, and a MAP torch. Snapping a manifold fastener would completely ruin your day, and I get the impression you’d need to farm out its removal. Old exhaust work sucks and I wouldn’t dream of it without a torch and welder on hand.


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[gmorin07]

Don’t even attempt to replace your stock manifolds without a bottle of AC Delco heat valve penetrant, and a MAP torch. Snapping a manifold fastener would completely ruin your day, and I get the impression your’d need to farm out its removal. Old exhaust work sucks and I wouldn’t dream of it without a torch and welder on hand.

Yea no I’m paying a shop to do it.
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[PeteD]

Yea no I’m paying a shop to do it.
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Enigma Solved

 

[jimmykicker]

Don’t even attempt to replace your stock manifolds without a bottle of AC Delco heat valve penetrant, and a MAP torch. Snapping a manifold fastener would completely ruin your day, and I get the impression you’d need to farm out its removal. Old exhaust work sucks and I wouldn’t dream of it without a torch and welder on hand.


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Me personally, I've always used that silver anti seize stuff. It works really well. I can pull the bolts out no problem! Worth the $4.

 

[gmorin07]

Me personally, I've always used that silver anti seize stuff. It works really well. I can pull the bolts out no problem! Worth the $4.

I def got some anti seize lol

 

[S15E83]

Me personally, I've always used that silver anti seize stuff. It works really well. I can pull the bolts out no problem! Worth the $4.

I use Ford nickel antiseize on most every fastener I reinstall so that future disassembly is easy. A small can is about $30 and it lasts me a year or two. Al antiseize on steel fasteners tends to seize galvanically; most things I touch are aluminum or even magnesium (including Al bolts) so the Ni stuff has better stability and is good to 1200*F or more. None of it is any good on fasteners that haven’t ever been touched, antiseize is too thick to penetrate. AC Delco heater valve penetrant is a fantastic rust penetrant, as is Kroil, or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Super heat and an immediate cold water quench works pretty well for freeing seized fasteners too.

Sometimes, I find it easier just to snap the bolts off with an impact, remove the exhaust piece for room to work, and extract the broken stud. A nut and a MIG welder gets a broken stud out in less than a minute.

ford motorcraft high temp nickle antie seize lube-Broncograveyard.com

shop.broncograveyard.com

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[gmorin07]

I use Ford nickel antiseize on most every fastener I reinstall so that future disassembly odds easy. A small can is about $30 and it lasts me a year or two. Al antiseize on steel fasteners tends to seize galvanically; most things I touch are aluminum or even magnesium (including Al bolts) so the Ni stuff has better stability and is good to 1200*F or more. None of it is any good on fasteners that haven’t ever been touched, antiseize is too thick to penetrate. AC Delco heater valve penetrant is a fantastic rust penetrant, as is Kroil, or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Super heat and an immediate cold water quench works pretty well for freeing seized fasteners too.

Sometimes, I find it easier just to snap the bolts off with an impact, remove the exhaust piece for room to work, and extract the broken stud. A nut and a MIG welder gets a broken stud out in less than a minute.

ford motorcraft high temp nickle antie seize lube-Broncograveyard.com

shop.broncograveyard.com

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Well all will be done in the next month or so…Edelbrock intake, Weber 32/36 carb, OBX headers, new heads and new exhaust with a spintech muffler.

then finally cam, timing chain and roller rockers and I think I’ll have done as much as you can with a 2.8 minus internals.

 

[PeteD]

Well all will be done in the next month or so…Edelbrock intake, Weber 32/36 carb, OBX headers, new heads and new exhaust with a spintech muffler.

then finally cam, timing chain and roller rockers and I think I’ll have done as much as you can with a 2.8 minus internals.

Probably So.

 

[gmorin07]

Probably So.

Yea I’m hoping lol

 

[GSettle]

Well all will be done in the next month or so…Edelbrock intake, Weber 32/36 carb, OBX headers, new heads and new exhaust with a spintech muffler.

then finally cam, timing chain and roller rockers and I think I’ll have done as much as you can with a 2.8 minus internals.

Out of curiosity, how much $ will you have in all your upgrades?

 

[gmorin07]

Out of curiosity, how much $ will you have in all your upgrades?

Ummm

before I get into performance distributer or small stuff…$1600 ish roughly

 

[gmorin07]

Ummm

before I get into performance distributer or small stuff…$1600 ish roughly

not ain’t cheap lol

 

[S15E83]

Well all will be done in the next month or so…Edelbrock intake, Weber 32/36 carb, OBX headers, new heads and new exhaust with a spintech muffler.

then finally cam, timing chain and roller rockers and I think I’ll have done as much as you can with a 2.8 minus internals.

The intake has to come off to replace the heads, and the intake has to come off to replace the cam. Replace the cam while the intake and heads are off.


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[gmorin07]

The intake has to come off to replace the heads, and the intake has to come off to replace the cam. Replace the cam while the intake and heads are off.


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Good to know… thank you!

 

[S15E83]

Good to know… thank you!

And of course ensure pushrods are the proper length, rocker geometry of the new heads is proper (I don’t know if it’s adjustable on Chevies, but just something to keep in mind), the heads have the proper valves/springs for the cam, etc. A reliable build has all parts complementing each other, not just ordering out of a catalog and tossing them as a short block.

Check your rod bearings for wear and hope they can handle the additional stress.


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[gmorin07]

And of course ensure pushrods are the proper length, rocker geometry of the new heads is proper (I don’t know if it’s adjustable on Chevies, but just something to keep in mind), the heads have the proper valves/springs for the cam, etc. A reliable build has all parts complementing each other, not just ordering out of a catalog and tossing them as a short block.

Check your rod bearings for wear and hope they can handle the additional stress.


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Thank you for the advice!

 

[gmorin07]

ok for the edelbrock intake and Weber 32/36 install does anyone know exactly what I will need for install? This is what I have so far:

Carb gasket
Intake gasket
Water neck
Pipe plug kit
Manifold bolts
Carb bolts
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel pressure gauge
Valve cover breather
85 older distributer

for the carb:
Adapter kit
Throttle linkage adapter

that’s all I can think of at the moment…

thanks
Glenn

 

[alexgranich]

OBX

Thanks!

 

[gmorin07]

Thanks!

Your welcome