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harlem body kit has to go
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Discussion Starter #1
ok i've got a 10" buffer and i picked up some foam buffing pads, i have some stuff that is 3m finishing compound i beleive. it's white. i got some small scratches all over my truck and i was wondering what the process would be to try to remove them? anyone have anything they've used thats worked well? i went to pep boys and there's a whole bunch of stuff to remove scratches so i dont want to mess my paint up any further... thanks
 

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i work for a body shop man and when we get done wetsanding a whole car we use meguires three stage buffing compounds and there are diffrent kinds of stages so u would have to pick out which one sounds right for u then after the three diffrent times u buff use meguires hand polish and it should look pretty danm good but i dont know about those foam buffing pads man u might want to get diffrent ones made out of some type of sotft ass cloth hope this helps
 

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i used mothers gold scratch remover on ver very fine scratches on my moms truck, worked wonders.
 

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harlem body kit has to go
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Discussion Starter #4
well there were foam bonnets and terry cloth bonnets. on the back of the box it said to use foam for buffing. as far as wetsanding goes, i tried that once with some 1200 grit paper and it was a disaster and just put bigger scratches on my car.
 

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litestab said:
well there were foam bonnets and terry cloth bonnets. on the back of the box it said to use foam for buffing. as far as wetsanding goes, i tried that once with some 1200 grit paper and it was a disaster and just put bigger scratches on my car.
I wouldnt attempt it yourself. If you cant wetsand yourself I wouldnt even try to buff either. I work at a detail shop and am in school for autobody repair and it is alot easier to screw up a car then to make it look better. If you are useing a "buffer" with bonnets it wont work. You need a high speed buffer not an orbital buffer. an orbital buffer is to slow (made for waxing), has the wrong motion, and most of the time isnt adjustable. The cheapest I have seen a highspeed buffer for new that would work is around 100 bucks. You need a wool pad to buff (pad not bonnet) and foam pads or bonnets are for polishing. If you need anymore help PM me and I will give you my cell phone number and try to explain it better.

BTW, we charge 160 for a single stage buff and to get the scratches and swirl marks out you need at least a 2 stage buff, maybe a three.
 

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2362823144&category=303

Thats the type of buffer you need. Adjustable speed and a hell of alot faster then probably what you have. I PM'd you my cell number and if you call me I will be able to help you better. I go into work in an hour and will get some product information at that point for the compounds we use.
 

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yea u need a compounder running at 2500 to about 3000 rpm. We use the compounder to take out those lil scratches that u get when you get to close to a bush or the dog that get's his nails in ur paint. if it's that bad u can wet sand but u run the risk of taking out the clear coat paint.
 

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harlem body kit has to go
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Discussion Starter #9
can you guys explain to me how buffing gets rid of the scratches? and will they " come back " in a month?
 

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litestab said:
well there were foam bonnets and terry cloth bonnets. on the back of the box it said to use foam for buffing. as far as wetsanding goes, i tried that once with some 1200 grit paper and it was a disaster and just put bigger scratches on my car.
it was probably a disaster because you used 1200 grit paper, i wouldn't use less than 2000 grit paper.
 

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harlem body kit has to go
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Discussion Starter #11
yellow i only used the 1200 on a small area on my hood. my hood is garbage anyway because there were big scuffs when i bought it, rock chips, and also somehow my intake filter dented it from the underside. so i think its time for a new hood.
 
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