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Well, i think i would have to swap the rear end when i put a v6 in it anyways right? if so then i will go to the scrapyard after the next paycheck to get one, thanks! :)
While you're taking the rear axle out of a Blazer... Grab the front Sway(anti-roll) Bar, that is much thicker than stock pick-up front bars, that with the ZQ8 shocks will have you hugging corners really well. You can also grab the rear sway bar out of the 4 door blazers, but you will need a bracket to connect the endlinks.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #122
While you're taking the rear axle out of a Blazer... Grab the front Sway(anti-roll) Bar, that is much thicker than stock pick-up front bars, that with the ZQ8 shocks will have you hugging corners really well. You can also grab the rear sway bar out of the 4 door blazers, but you will need a bracket to connect the endlinks.
Thanks! very glad for the advice, but i think that since i will be putting an lt1 in mine i may get the ford explorer 8.8 and have it resized to fit if need be. If they are not too expensive i will pick up the shocks, and both sway bars. no sens in going fast if you can only go in a straight line.
Speaking of does anyone know what all ill have to do to the front end to make the motor fit and not drag my front end to the ground? im thinking just tougher springs but would there be anything else?
 

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Old Fart
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Thanks! very glad for the advice, but i think that since i will be putting an lt1 in mine i may get the ford explorer 8.8 and have it resized to fit if need be. If they are not too expensive i will pick up the shocks, and both sway bars. no sens in going fast if you can only go in a straight line.
Speaking of does anyone know what all ill have to do to the front end to make the motor fit and not drag my front end to the ground? im thinking just tougher springs but would there be anything else?
Since an aluminum block LS weighs the same as a 4.3 you can use 4.3 springs with that, so why do you want to go with an old LT1 when a more modern engine is available? You do not need an 8.8 to handle V8 power stay with the disc brake 8.6 and put a TruTrac in it, easy peasy, and not mods to make it work as it's a bolt in. As I said before posi clutches wear out whether it's a Ford or a Chevy axle.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
The main reason people do the 8.8 swap is because they're a hell of a lot cheaper and easier to find than a 2wd width S series 8.6 rear. But if you can find one I agree that it's the way to go. That being said, good luck.

Also [email protected] Have fun with that optispark, brah.
well, i say that because i can get a t56 and a lt1 with about 105k miles for 850$ both of them are verified to work, if you all have better options for the same price please let me know. I love the t56 and would like to get away from the nv3500. It is by no means a definite but i saw a good deal and it had me thinking, i know the 5.3l's are better but i would rather have the aluminum block over an iron block 5.3l [i would most likely pull the motor from a silverado.]
In all honesty the biggest reason i have with going with a 1994 lt1 is because it doesnt have obdII less issues for troubleshooting, i am far better at actual mechanics than i am with wiring/programming. Plus, 275 horsepower stock still isn't bad, and it is way better than what i have. Still, if anyone has a better tranny/motor combo for that price let me know, i definitely want a 6 speed though.
 

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time to get cereal
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OBDII is much much easier to deal with than dealing with the old ALDL system GM used to have... Even if you have a Tech I, OBDII with a Tech II gives you much more information for diagnostics.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #128 (Edited)
You doubt my choice of motors do you? well, so do i lol.
What do you recommend then? whatever i get i want something that responds well to building and one that has a lot of parts available(cams, pistons, rods, etc..). i may also boost eventually but that is pretty far away.
Oh unrelated but i looked up the optispark
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/advice/car-technology/the-big-problem-with-chevys-57-lt1-v8
seems that when i rebuild the motor i could simply replace it with an aftermarket one? i'm still open to other engines by the way, just doing other research.
 

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Sometimes I wonder if the Ford might not be the better choice. A bit more work with having to shorten it, but most of the 8.5s out there have enough miles now that the axle bearing surface is worn down. That's new axles on top of the Tru Trac and probably new gears. It quickly turns into a $1000-1500 axle build. I haven't priced out upgrading a Ford axle, but I bet it's a cost wash between the two.
 
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You doubt my choice of motors do you? well, so do i lol.
What do you recommend then? whatever i get i want something that responds well to building and one that has a lot of parts available(cams, pistons, rods, etc..). i may also boost eventually but that is pretty far away.
Oh unrelated but i looked up the optispark
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
seems that when i rebuild the motor i could simply replace it with an aftermarket one? i'm still open to other engines by the way, just doing other research.
Any LS series.
 

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Old Fart
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The main reason people do the 8.8 swap is because they're a hell of a lot cheaper and easier to find than a 2wd width S series 8.6 rear. But if you can find one I agree that it's the way to go. That being said, good luck.

Also [email protected] Have fun with that optispark, brah.
He is using Corvette wheels so he doesn't need the hard to find 2wd rear, he can use a 4wd and toss his spacers so the 8.6 would be the easier and cheaper way to go in his case. I forgot to mention the optispark too so thanks for that!
 

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Old Fart
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Sometimes I wonder if the Ford might not be the better choice. A bit more work with having to shorten it, but most of the 8.5s out there have enough miles now that the axle bearing surface is worn down. That's new axles on top of the Tru Trac and probably new gears. It quickly turns into a $1000-1500 axle build. I haven't priced out upgrading a Ford axle, but I bet it's a cost wash between the two.
I'm picking up a 2wd 8.6 with 25,000 miles on it for mine so they are out there if you look.
 

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Old Fart
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You doubt my choice of motors do you? well, so do i lol.
What do you recommend then? whatever i get i want something that responds well to building and one that has a lot of parts available(cams, pistons, rods, etc..). i may also boost eventually but that is pretty far away.
Oh unrelated but i looked up the optispark
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
seems that when i rebuild the motor i could simply replace it with an aftermarket one? i'm still open to other engines by the way, just doing other research.
There is a reason that the engine is that cheap there is almost no demand for it since it has multiple issues. There isn.t a lot of aftermarket support for it since it was only built for a couple of years and the old saying, you get what you pay for. If you want an aluminum block an L33 is the way to go but you are talking boost in the future then you want an iron block for that unless you are talking under 15 psi then you could get away with aluminum. Unless you want to go ridiculous fast you can get plenty of power from the L33 as with just a cam change and a tune it will make 425+ hp. If you take your time searching you can find a deal on a good L33, I searched for almost a year but I found a low mileage 06 for $1,000 shipped and now I'm buying all the parts a little at a time as I can afford to do my swap the cleanest way using all Holley/Hooker parts that are meant to work together so I have no fitment issues. It will take me a little longer than some have but if I have everything onhand before I start then my truck will not be out of commission very long. When your money is tight it is better to save up and do it right instead of having to do it over or worse yet never finish like so many before you have. I have started following many swap threads on here that have never been completed so don't be one of those. The LS engines are not the cheapest but they are the best, some buy wrecked trucks for donors and part them out to get their engines and usually end up with a close to free engine after selling off the unneeded parts so there are other ways to get a better engine without spending more money but it will cost you some labor. If you don't have the cash that may be the best for you. I don' have a good place to take a donor truck apart so that is why I waited until I could find an engine that I could afford. By the time you fix all the LT1 issues, you will have as much money in it as an LS which is a much better design and capable of much more power and better fuel economy.
 

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Boozebag
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Too many plan changes going on here.

I bet you can find a project someone has lost interest in and buy it for cheap pesos.
You have a good looking truck. Leave it alone and find something you can hack on and learn.
I know you may have limited income, but you will be way ahead of the curve buying someone else's project (if it isn't a cob job) and already has lots of performance work already done.

This will require patience and serious shopping, but it will be well worth it.

Oh, the Ford 8.8 axle has an offset differential. IIRC, the passenger axle is 3" longer than the driver's. This means that the passenger wheel will poke.
It will sort of bolt in, but it will take mods to do it right.

1. Shorten passenger axle tube 3 1/16"
2. You will need a driver axle to install on the passenger side after the tube is shortened.
3. The hydraulic brake connection needs an adapter to the S10 brake line
4. You will have to change the pinion yolk or modify the drive shaft
5. Change the wheel bolt pattern - re-drill the bolt pattern to the Chevy size
6. The Ford springs are wider than the S10 rear springs. You can jam the u-bolts on, but ideally, you should change the spring perches to fit correctly.
7. IIRC, the shocks have a slightly different mount spacing.

The Ford 8.8 has an identity tag on the passenger side of the rear end cover. It tells you the gear ratio and if it's a locker. Example... 3.73 L means 3.73 gear and the L denotes locker unit.

So, bolt in? Uh, no.
It takes a little more than just popping it in.
 

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Old Fart
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Keep in mind that an LS with around 100,000 miles that was properly maintained will not need a rebuild, just upgrade the lifters and rocker trunnions and you are good for another 200,000 miles if properly maintained.
 

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Old Fart
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Too many plan changes going on here.

I bet you can find a project someone has lost interest in and buy it for cheap pesos.
You have a good looking truck. Leave it alone and find something you can hack on and learn.
I know you may have limited income, but you will be way ahead of the curve buying someone else's project (if it isn't a cob job) and already has lots of performance work already done.

This will require patience and serious shopping, but it will be well worth it.

Oh, the Ford 8.8 axle has an offset differential. IIRC, the passenger axle is 3" longer than the driver's. This means that the passenger wheel will poke.
It will sort of bolt in, but it will take mods to do it right.

1. Shorten passenger axle tube 3 1/16"
2. You will need a driver axle to install on the passenger side after the tube is shortened.
3. The hydraulic brake connection needs an adapter to the S10 brake line
4. You will have to change the pinion yolk or modify the drive shaft
5. Change the wheel bolt pattern - re-drill the bolt pattern to the Chevy size
6. The Ford springs are wider than the S10 rear springs. You can jam the u-bolts on, but ideally, you should change the spring perches to fit correctly.
7. IIRC, the shocks have a slightly different mount spacing.

The Ford 8.8 has an identity tag on the passenger side of the rear end cover. It tells you the gear ratio and if it's a locker. Example... 3.73 L means 3.73 gear and the L denotes locker unit.

So, bolt in? Uh, no.
It takes a little more than just popping it in.
The L stands for limited-slip, not locker. It is still a clutch-type limited-slip. as far as I know, Toyota and Jeep are the only ones offering true locking diffs from the factory and they are in 4X4s for off-road use.
 
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You're correct that the pumpkin is offset on 8.8's but incorrect about one wheel poking out. It's the driveshaft centerline that's affected not the wheels. There's a lot wrong with that post. The how to thread I posted from Richard has all the correct info.

And regardless of the width of the 8.6 the 8.8's are still cheaper and more abundant. Considering all that encompasses this thread all of this discussion will be for naught anyways.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #138
Too many plan changes going on here.

I bet you can find a project someone has lost interest in and buy it for cheap pesos.
You have a good looking truck. Leave it alone and find something you can hack on and learn.
I know you may have limited income, but you will be way ahead of the curve buying someone else's project (if it isn't a cob job) and already has lots of performance work already done.

This will require patience and serious shopping, but it will be well worth it.

Oh, the Ford 8.8 axle has an offset differential. IIRC, the passenger axle is 3" longer than the driver's. This means that the passenger wheel will poke.
It will sort of bolt in, but it will take mods to do it right.

1. Shorten passenger axle tube 3 1/16"
2. You will need a driver axle to install on the passenger side after the tube is shortened.
3. The hydraulic brake connection needs an adapter to the S10 brake line
4. You will have to change the pinion yolk or modify the drive shaft
5. Change the wheel bolt pattern - re-drill the bolt pattern to the Chevy size
6. The Ford springs are wider than the S10 rear springs. You can jam the u-bolts on, but ideally, you should change the spring perches to fit correctly.
7. IIRC, the shocks have a slightly different mount spacing.

The Ford 8.8 has an identity tag on the passenger side of the rear end cover. It tells you the gear ratio and if it's a locker. Example... 3.73 L means 3.73 gear and the L denotes locker unit.

So, bolt in? Uh, no.
It takes a little more than just popping it in.
Actually what i am doing is building a junkyard camaro or something similar, whichever i find first that looks like a decent deal, after i complete the junkyard build on that one ill be ready to start mine.
 

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Registered
2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
Joined
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter #139
There is a reason that the engine is that cheap there is almost no demand for it since it has multiple issues. There isn.t a lot of aftermarket support for it since it was only built for a couple of years and the old saying, you get what you pay for. If you want an aluminum block an L33 is the way to go but you are talking boost in the future then you want an iron block for that unless you are talking under 15 psi then you could get away with aluminum. Unless you want to go ridiculous fast you can get plenty of power from the L33 as with just a cam change and a tune it will make 425+ hp. If you take your time searching you can find a deal on a good L33, I searched for almost a year but I found a low mileage 06 for $1,000 shipped and now I'm buying all the parts a little at a time as I can afford to do my swap the cleanest way using all Holley/Hooker parts that are meant to work together so I have no fitment issues. It will take me a little longer than some have but if I have everything onhand before I start then my truck will not be out of commission very long. When your money is tight it is better to save up and do it right instead of having to do it over or worse yet never finish like so many before you have. I have started following many swap threads on here that have never been completed so don't be one of those. The LS engines are not the cheapest but they are the best, some buy wrecked trucks for donors and part them out to get their engines and usually end up with a close to free engine after selling off the unneeded parts so there are other ways to get a better engine without spending more money but it will cost you some labor. If you don't have the cash that may be the best for you. I don' have a good place to take a donor truck apart so that is why I waited until I could find an engine that I could afford. By the time you fix all the LT1 issues, you will have as much money in it as an LS which is a much better design and capable of much more power and better fuel economy.
this right here, i like this. You wrote it all up really well and put down some really good points, i could definitely get a 5.3l truck on craigslist for 1500 or 2k and use all the parts from that, sell what i dont need and put a v8 in, like i said my only issue would be the iron block, since i would be going for a nice N/A build to start off and not to mention this motors torque and horsepower peak better for a truck than a racecar. But in all honesty i have to admit it is the better option for me, if they cost the same i will definitely go for the 5.3l. As of now though almost all the cars ive worked on have been before 2001, like a 91 turbo volvo 740, or an 87 dakota. It is because i have more experience with the older motors that i wanted to go for it. Thanks for all the info! As far as the rear end i may go with an 8.6 since it can handle the power i want and it will have disk brakes. I guess i will look for a 3:42 g80 with 8.6, i do believe they made them in that style.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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Discussion Starter #140
Keep in mind that an LS with around 100,000 miles that was properly maintained will not need a rebuild, just upgrade the lifters and rocker trunnions and you are good for another 200,000 miles if properly maintained.
i figure that if im going to pull the motor i will end up at least putting a nice cam in it before i put it in my truck, plus a rebuild for piece of mind.
 
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