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Old Fart
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4,063 Posts
Keep wrenching, learning. Though, I would prefer to work for the Nascar team, even as helper for free. Skill trade and learning directly from them is better than paying school for textbook and some hands on. You'll have better chance to work for them than students that graduate from UNOH.
WyoTech does place most of its students in some pretty good jobs I hear.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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224 Posts
Discussion Starter #223
Keep wrenching, learning. Though, I would prefer to work for the Nascar team, even as helper for free. Skill trade and learning directly from them is better than paying school for textbook and some hands on. You'll have better chance to work for them than students that graduate from UNOH.
Eh, he had one, not anymore. But he shares a lot of his experiance with me, im about ready to actually start this project for real, i now know that just having a turbo kit sitting in the garage doesnt make me ready to install it. If i can get a bellhousing and fix the speedometer and clutch problems i am about to replace the nv1500 with a t5, i know the automatic would be better/easier, but i love my 5 speed. Mo, if you can forgive me for being stupid here soon i may actually start a true project thread.
Im really hoping i can get a t5 here soon, it would be great to replace the rear main and the trans on the same day.
Also, if anyone needs a built rear end that will bolt up to our trucks,
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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224 Posts
Discussion Starter #224
Being that you're already ASE and AWS certed you already have a pretty good head start.
Covid, i passed the certification tests but i have no idea how to get my actual papers, i may not. At this rate my welding cert has expired and i need to redo it, and my automechanics certs are nowhere to be found.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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224 Posts
Discussion Starter #225
I do need some of your advice though, recently one of the ignition wires that we messed up when putting the headers on finnally went, and the truck started missing under any kind of load, but idled fine, we replaced the wires and it fixed it but it still stuttered a little every now and again, yesterday after driving to the bank and back without going above id say 4k rpm. i got close to home and it started doing the exact same thing again, i know the spark plugs still have life left in them and the wires are new, am i correct in assuming i should replace the coil packs?
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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224 Posts
Discussion Starter #226 (Edited)
Alright, 42lb injectors and tune installed, no leaks. Fixed the idle, exhaust is way more poppy,has some more power down low, but until the fuel. pump gets here im limited to 4k rpm, i made a mistake and didnt realize it would run out of fuel without the turbo as well. Will post pictures if wanted later, way too tired right now.
Oh, does anyone know the stock lph rating of the 2.2l fuel pump? trying to figure out just how starved for fuel the truck gets. Need to decide if its safe to drive as long as i dont go above 3k rpm, ill be a snail.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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224 Posts
Discussion Starter #227
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Progress so far, had to reweld the manifold because it was cracked, and put on a fresh coat of heat paint.
So far to get this manifold to fit I've had to remove the ac, had to get a custom dipstick as well as lengthen and/or bypass some hoses from the heater core and vacuum. Tune and 42lb Injectors as well as a walbro 255 fuel pump are already installed, should be up and done by the end of the week, but we will most likely be able to test fire it tommorow.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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Discussion Starter #228
It runs! 7psi for now, we plugged the wideband and gauge in but they only worked for 2 minutes before the gauge stopped showing numbers and showed these ----- instead. I think i got a dud wideband sensor from aem. Feels like 200 to the wheels, 0-60 is about 5-6 seconds. Its fun, while the wideband worked the afrs were good on all the rpm levels so we ran it a little after the gauge failed anyways. Boost kicks in around 2500 rpm if you gas it good. I will post some photos of the assembled truck later, for now i need to do some better wire management and make a better heat shield for the turbo (or just wrap it) ill figure it out tommorow. Truck runs good
 
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Boozebag
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9,379 Posts
Good to hear the truck runs well.
You may want to consider alcohol injection (mist in the intake side) if you run more boost (?).
Any plans for a "tune" in the future?
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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Discussion Starter #230
Good to hear the truck runs well.
You may want to consider alcohol injection (mist in the intake side) if you run more boost (?).
Any plans for a "tune" in the future?
It came shipped with a pretty solid tune. It also came with a methanol kit but I havnt hooked it up yet. 7 psi is plenty for me until I at least build the bottom end. Right now we are resurfacing the exhaust and replacing the clutch. Here's some photos of the "finished" engine bay though.
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I can say that I am proud that i was able to do this at 18. Very happy with the results.
 
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time to get cereal
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Looks good, but I hope you did something about the PCV system... the stock setup is not going to take kindly to boost.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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Discussion Starter #233 (Edited)
Looks good, but I hope you did something about the PCV system... the stock setup is not going to take kindly to boost.
I will admit, i was not sure what to do there, it kind of just vents to atmosphere, You are talking about the valve on top of the head behind the throttle body right? The kit came with a catch can that i still need to hook up there, but until i fix the exhaust and clutch i did not see a need to hook it up yet. Do any of you all have a recommendation for what i should do? or would the catch can be good enough? I figured it would be better to let it vent to atmosphere than it would be to risk running lean.

Edit: in the photo you can see the hose, it is directly to the left of the t on the vacuum line. It kind of just sits there for now, has not leaked much if any oil from there, although i will admit the truck still has a mystery oil leak that i have had since before i hooked any of the turbo up, unfortunately it runs down the trans and drips directly onto the exhaust. Still a work in progress but as of now the only thing that burns is the oil on the exhaust, i had to wrap and cover almost everything in the engine bay around the turbo, it even melted my original clutch line.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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224 Posts
Discussion Starter #234
One more thing i am having trouble with, how do i effectively hook up the blowoff valve? right now it is hooked up to a t in the vacuum line, but it flutters every now and again when i let off the throttle, i have checked the valve and the turbo and both are in great condition. I do not want to wear out the bearing in the turbine if i can help it.
Nevermind, i believe that i need to hook it into a line that has vacuum and boost, not just vacuum. But i do not know of any good places to pull from.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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Discussion Starter #235
Nicely done...I wouldn't have tried it...
I would not recommend it, especially at my experience level lol. Learning as you go turns out to be pretty difficult. But these little ln2 motors are more reliable than people give them credit for. Hopefully that will save me from blowing it. Fingers crossed at least.
 

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‘95 LS 2.2L Manual RWD
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the truck still has a mystery oil leak that i have had since before i hooked any of the turbo up, unfortunately it runs down the trans and drips directly onto the exhaust.
 

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time to get cereal
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The 98+ 2.2L does not use any PCV valve... that's just part of the problem.

From this site: PCV System

A typical non-boosted (no supercharger or turbo charger) PCV system always has some vacuum on the intake manifold plenum. A restricted portion of intake manifold vacuum, which often runs -15Hg to -20 Hg, is used to draw engine crankcase air out of the crankcase. The manifold vacuum pulls crankcase fumes out of the crankcase through a check valve. Clean filtered air flows into the crankcase, generally through the valve cover or valve covers. This fresh air prevents fumes and moisture from contaminating oil and damaging internal parts. When an engine has boost, or if an engine has worn piston rings, the crankcase tends to pressurize. This crankcase pressure must be vented or oil can blow out seals. Venting crankcase pressure, while still allowing non-boost vacuum to pull clean air into the crankcase, requires a little planning. (It took me a while to get this right.)
You're going to do bad things to your brand new engine if you keep running boost like it is.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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Discussion Starter #238
The 98+ 2.2L does not use any PCV valve... that's just part of the problem.

From this site: PCV System



You're going to do bad things to your brand new engine if you keep running boost like it is.
So without the line hooked up to vacuum it lets the crankcase pressurize. If i use a catch can to filter the oil and hook the line back up it should work fine then? Sorry if i'm not getting this right.
 

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2000 2.2l sonoma Brand new motor
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Discussion Starter #239 (Edited)
Update, Currently resurfacing and putting new gaskets on all of the exhaust surfaces (The exhaust manifold was shaped like a banana pretty good). While i had the transmission and driveshaft out i compared the t5 and nv1500, both are exact same length, so i tried to hook up the driveshaft and it worked. We ended up keeping the clutch fork setup and adapting the current clutch line to hook up to the slave cylinder. Currently the 2000 gmc sonoma with a 99 motor now has a 95 t5 transmission bolted up, driveshaft went in just fine and is connected to rear end. The transmission shifts into all gears and seems rock solid, the t5 only had 49k miles on it. New throwout bearing and new slave cylinder. The clutch and flywheel i bought for the nv1500 are the same ones i can buy for the t5. They all match up and everything seems fine. We are going to drill a new hole in the original crossmember so that the transmission mount will fit, and we will have to splice in some wires to make the speedo work. We also had to cut a hole about 5 inches further in the floor than the old one. But as of right now i can shift the t5 through all gears, works as it is supposed to as far as we can tell without a running motor.

Edit: I do need to know, i have seen multiple different answers, but for a t5 transmission that came off of a 1995 2.2l s10, what fluid do i need to fill it with? I have seen everything from syncromesh the dextron 3 recommended but i would like a solid answer. Thankyou!
 
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