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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have a '97 S10 p/u with 4.3L V6 and ABS brakes. One of the steel brake lines rusted through and leaked out.
I am preparing to replace it. But I am trying to figure out what size are the brake line fittings.
The rusty brake lines appear to be 3/16" diameter.
Are the fittings metric or imperial measures? Does anyone know what sizes the fittings are?
I couldn't find this info anywhere.

Thanks.
 

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335757


Nut, Inverted Flare, 3/8"-24 Thread
A 3/8 fine thread bolt will screw right in. They are not tapered threads like pipe uses because the flare on the end of the line and the matching male flare inside the part do the sealing. That is why the nut has the recessed end - to put the pressure on the lines flare.
If you are making your own double flared lines with a tool, most LAPS have the nuts. I just wire wheel the old ones and reuse them unless a PO has round cornered them. Best way to save them is to cut the rusty line close to the nut and use a 6 point socket to remove it.
You can clean up and slightly rounded corners with a quality bastard file. Put anti-seize on the threads when installing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
View attachment 335757

Nut, Inverted Flare, 3/8"-24 Thread
A 3/8 fine thread bolt will screw right in. They are not tapered threads like pipe uses because the flare on the end of the line and the matching male flare inside the part do the sealing. That is why the nut has the recessed end - to put the pressure on the lines flare.
If you are making your own double flared lines with a tool, most LAPS have the nuts. I just wire wheel the old ones and reuse them unless a PO has round cornered them. Best way to save them is to cut the rusty line close to the nut and use a 6 point socket to remove it.
You can clean up and slightly rounded corners with a quality bastard file. Put anti-seize on the threads when installing it.
Thanks! I tried to measure one of the nuts with a caliper, but I couldn't tell if they are metric or imperial. I think most (all?) of the fasteners on the S10 are metric. The nuts down by the front wheels are pretty rusty.
 

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rusty lines should be replaced
just do all of them
right stuff ,SSB,inline tube make kits
or if handy with tools,buy some cupronickle tubing and make them,using old ones as a pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
rusty lines should be replaced
just do all of them
right stuff ,SSB,inline tube make kits
or if handy with tools,buy some cupronickle tubing and make them,using old ones as a pattern.
Yes, I will replace all the rusted out lines. The rear lines were replaced a few years ago and are OK. But the front lines are badly rusted, one has rusted through. I did find a pre-bent and flared kit for the whole car, $200. But I only need the front. I think I will buy 3/16" line, bend and flare it myself.

I think this is definitely the type of repair, where if one line rusts out, it is probably best to replace them all.
 

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my point exactly
there have been others that came on this forum to say they didnt need to replace all brake lines because they werent leaking yet. They would be good candidates for Darwin Award,but problem is others that are innocent may get swept up in that also.The curonickle tubing is softer than steel,easy to bend,but wont rot like steel does.
Buy a good double flare tool and find assorted pipe,large sockets to bend over,It will kink if too tight a bend so practice first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How's this for a late reply? Last November, the front-driver side brake line rusted through. I bought a 25-foot length of 3/16" steel brake line, an 6-foot spool of steel spiral wrap and an assortment kit of line nuts. The flaring tool I bought is the Titan 51535. I recommend this tool for flaring 3/16" lines. Perfect flare every time, even with no experience. I also bought some cheap bending tools off ebay. To make the 1-turn spiral in the line for strain relief next to the ABS, I used a steel pipe as a former and wrapped the brake line around it as Dime-dozen suggested.

I was able to create a new line for the front-driver line. This repair went pretty smoothly for my first time doing brake lines. It does take a lot of patience to exactly duplicate a brake line. The replacement does have to be shaped almost exactly like the original to fit correctly.

So, I did the front-drivers last November. Winter is too cold to replace the front-passenger brake line, even though it is just as rusted (or maybe I'm a procrastinator). I didn't really drive the S10 at all, so I put it off until spring. This summer, I did the front-passenger. More challenging because the line is longer. It takes some effort to get the old line out in 1 piece. Lots of maneuvering brake line. Removed the air filter box and air hose to throttle. Removed windshield washer reservoir. I found disconnecting 1 of the oil cooler lines to the radiator was very helpful. Some electrical connections had to be disconnected near the lower radiator hose on passenger side.

I realized I may have made a mistake after the fact. Since the front-passenger line terminates in the middle-lower port of the ABS unit, I found it was impossible to disconnect it from the ABS. Couldn't get a tool on that line nut. Maybe someone more nimble and clever could have gotten it off. What I did was disconnect the other lines coming off of the ABS and the short lines connecting the ABS to master cylinder. I also removed the master cylinder. This required bleeding the MC before reinstall.

The problem might be that I have air bubbles trapped in the ABS unit (or MC) from disconnecting all the lines. I bleed all 4 wheels, 3 times. Used 2 quarts of fluid. The ABS unit is supposed to be activated with a scan tool while bleeding, but I don't have that scan tool. I tried to activate the ABS by driving through puddles after a rain and braking hard, followed by another bleed. I could activate the ABS this way but, not sure if it was sufficient to clear air bubbles. I found the ABS has a schrader-type valve on it. I tried bleeding this, but no change.

Anyway, the brakes do work. But the first 2 inches of peddle push don't give any stopping action. I can come to a screeching stop if necessary. If anyone is reading this far, is it possible to firm up the brake peddle? How?
Thanks for reading.
 

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Spend the money and have the abs bled at a shop with a Tech2....then rebelled the rest of the system....again.
 
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