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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone! Got a 1994 Extended Cab S10 2.2 5 Speed. Recently did new brakes, rotors, and wheel bearings on the front end because the pads were worn out and I had a warped rotor. It went well and I had no trouble until I decided to check what temperature the wheels were after a run to make sure nothing was wrong. Well, sure enough, my driver's side wheel was way hotter than the passenger side wheel, and I determined the caliper was sticking. So I flushed the brake fluid, added new clean DOT4, installed new calipers, bled the lines, and drove around to make sure everything was good. It SEEMED like my problems were solved: I checked the temperatures of the wheels (by feel) and they were more or less the same for the front 2 and back 2.

Fast forward to today, which is a few weeks after all this was done. I've driven at least 600 miles, 300 on the highway. I've been interested in installing a tachometer in the truck to see what my RPMs are at highway speeds, so I bought one. To install it I needed access to the ignition module to access a white signal wire. I went to remove the passenger side wheel to get better access, so I jacked the truck up. Out of curiosity I tried to spin the wheel to see how free it was... and it barely spins. Brakes definitely dragging on it. I can see the pads shift back/forth in the caliper if I rock the wheel back/forth. I jacked the drivers side to see if it was the case on both sides. Nope, drivers side front wheel spins 1.5 revolutions before stopping, and normal brake drag, the pads don't really move around that much if I rock wheel back/forth.

The weird thing is that there is no notable temperature difference between the front two wheels after driving (by feel). I checked on a few occasions. Even after realizing the passenger side was dragging just now I went on another test drive and came back, then checked again. Roughly same temperatures between 2 front wheels, but passenger front still seems stuck/dragging when jacked up.

I opened/closed the bleeder on the passenger side and a little bit of fluid came out. Not a jet stream, but a dribble. Makes me wonder if it's brake hoses. I will admit that I dropped the caliper while it was attached to the hose during the brake job, which I know puts strain on them. I checked to make sure the lines/hoses were strong after the job by pushing brakes as far as they'd go with the engine running to simulate a panic stop. No leaks from any lines/hoses, but I guess the hose could be bad inside. I've heard that can happen and cause sticking calipers. I also suspect maybe the reman caliper is no good.

When I'm driving I don't notice any smells or pulling to one side or brake fade... nothing out of the ordinary. Even on long trips or in heavy brake applications. Again, temps are roughly the same (unlike before caliper replacement, when driver's side was sticking, and was noticeably hotter). There's similar amounts of brake dust on both wheels (a bit more than I'd expect normally but I figure the pads breaking in may contribute to that). The rotors look similarly worn, maybe a hair more on passenger side. No grooves that catch my finger so far. All brake pads are properly anti-sized/silicone lubed and free moving in the calipers.

I don't think this is a wheel bearings problem because I have them tightened correctly (Seated the bearings up, then loosened the castle nut, then tightened by hand). They were also thoroughly greased with a packing tool, and extra grease was put on the spindle, seal, between the bearings, and in the dust cap. No noises when rolling either. The lug nuts are torqued to 80 foot pounds, for that it's worth, and that's just because my torque wrench doesn't go to 100 and I figure that 80 won't kill me. But that shouldn't matter. They were torqued in a star pattern.

The only other factor I can think of here is that when bleeding the brakes, I removed the old caliper on the passenger side from the rotor first, to get easy access to the bleeder valve. This was stupid, but it was my first time trying this so I didn't think ahead. I then realized the piston would just come out when pumping the brakes so I stuck a brake pad and my piston compressor tool in the caliper to hold it in place. Again, this was stupid, because I ended up pressing the screw piece of the compressor tool through the friction material in the middle of the brake pad down to the backing plate, since the brake system makes so much pressure. So I guess ~2% of the brake material was removed by doing that, but I inspected the pad and backing plate afterwards and it looked normal except for that. The brake pads I used are "split" in the middle anyway, so it really caused a marginal amount of damage. This is not something I would think is causing my problem.

I discovered this problem completely by chance, since I wanted to install this tach and ended up jacking the car. Of course it needs to be addressed, but at the very least I think this means it's not a severe issue since I had no idea something was wrong before.

I also can't figure out which white wire I need to splice into for the tach:
File_002.jpeg

but I'll deal with that after I fix this problem.

Here's some pictures of rotors/wheels, in case they add context for anyone:

File_000.jpeg

(Passenger Wheel Brake Dust)

File_001.jpeg

(Driver Wheel Brake Dust)
File_003.jpeg

(Driver Side Rotor)

File_004.jpeg

(Passenger Side Rotor)

And a video of the wheels spinning:

Anyway, I just thought I'd see what others think I should do and what the most likely problems and solutions are. I know there's a ton of info in the post but I want to be thorough so all information that may be relevant is accessible to anyone willing to help. I appreciate any input on the matter. Thanks!
 

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Could be a hose. They can prevent full retraction when the inside gets fuzzy. Or you could have gotten a faulty caliper. With the QC on most replacement parts today it happens a lot. I'm sure the 10 year old girl in China has to assemble 100 calipers per hour or not get paid.
 

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‘95 LS 2.2L Manual RWD
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No need to yell.
Yeah, PAUL. You blew out one of my hearing aids....

Tyler, ALWAYS replace the hoses if you have to take them loose such as when you replace calipers. They're cheap and not worth having to mess with brake fluid and bleeding them again. The only exception would be if they'd recently been replaced.
 

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Tyler, Just because you replaced a part. Doesnt mean the replacement cant be faulity.

Paul Md, I think the correct spelling is "pressure", not "preaser".
 

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Makes you kind of question if he really is an MD?
Before 1963 capital M small d was the abbreviation for Mary land.
Since then it's been MD also
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the thoughts y’all! I now realize it was stupid not to replace hoses, it doesn’t seem like it’s hard once you’re all the way to calipers removed. It’s my first time doing this so I expected there may be some learning moments...
So it seems like y’all agree it’s most likely brake lines or bad reman parts. I guess I’ll try the lines first and if that doesn’t fix it I’ll return the caliper and get a new one. If it’s still happening at that point I guess the metal lines or master cylinder would be next to suspect but I realllly hope that isn’t the case... I’m not thrilled that I have to replace hoses as it is. I guess I should do the rear one too.
And yes the sticking caliper was holding pressure after I cracked and closed the bleeder a couple times. Like I said a little fluid came out each time but it was still tight after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I’ve been on vacation since I made this post but I got back today and decided to take the truck out for a test drive, checking temps at several points along the way.

I brought a friend to confirm my temperature feel tests. We both can’t feel a meaningful difference in wheel temperatures after driving several miles at a consistent 50 MPH. We checked several times.

I also checked for pulling to the right... it seemed like it may pull a tiny bit, but nothing that alarms me. It also seemed to pull left sometimes. Besides, my steering linkages are so worn/sloppy that I have 1/8th a turn of play in the wheels before they engage so it’s hard to say. My alignment may not be perfect anyway. And I’ve heard cars/truck are supposed to slightly go right in North America to avoid head on collisions if the driver is unresponsive for whatever reason.

I jacked the truck up again once home and checked how the wheels spin. This time around the passenger side seems to go 3/4 a turn and drivers side 1 1/4 a turn. Didn’t seem that bad.

when I replaced pads and rotors before I noticed the right rotor was the one that was warped and the pads on that side were a hair more worn than the left. I blamed the rotor being warped on previous owner hitting a puddle or something after heavy braking, and assumed the warped rotor wore the pads faster. Now I wonder... maybe there’s a slight imperfection in master cylinder or lines somewhere that caused the right caliper to stick one day and warp the rotor... but who knows. Lots of variables here.

At this point I think I’m going to just keep an eye on this and make sure it doesn’t get worse before getting deeper. I’ve been known to overthink things, this may be one of those times. It’s an old beater truck with 240k. I feel like I could end up replacing every part of the brake system and still have some minor imperfections like this. Worst case scenario I notice I wear pads faster on this side or even maybe I warp a rotor again. I’ll be watching it so that shouldn’t happen. If that happens I’ll know I need to go deeper. But right now... I think it’ll be fine. If y’all think I’m making a big mistake tell me but otherwise I’ll just keep checking temperatures, and occasionally check rotor wear, brake lines, and how free tires spin. Thanks!
 

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I’ve never heard that “cars/truck are supposed to slightly go right in North America to avoid head on collisions”. Sounds like a line from a used car salesman.....

Hitting a puddle or something after heavy braking” won’t warp a rotor. If water on a hot rotor causes warp, we’d all have warped rotors every time we drive in the rain. “Warped rotors” are caused by riding your brakes, excessive braking, or a caliper not releasing and overheating the rotor.

And, if this is true, “my steering linkages are so worn/sloppy that I have 1/8th a turn of play in the wheels before they engage”, I guarantee you your alignment is FAR from perfect.

If you know these things need repairing, fix it and THEN let us know if you have a problem.
 

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Makes you kind of question if he really is an MD?
Before 1963 capital M small d was the abbreviation for Mary land.
Since then it's been MD also
As far as I knew Md was/is Maryland. MD was doctor. But, since alot of people don't know correction punctuation. It could be anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok so I’ve been driving it around and can confirm it doesn’t really pull particularly one way or the other. It depends on the road which way it “pulls,” and if anything it’s drifting not pulling. Usually pretty straight. I was exaggerating with my steering linkages being that sloppy. They probably have 6 degrees play each way. It’s perfectly drivable. I’m not worried about that. I do still suspect the right brake might be dragging very slightly. Still no temperature differences or anything, but maybe a touch more brake dust.

I’m planning on not freaking out about it for the time being and as long as nothing seems out of place, next time I do brakes I’ll see if wear is a lot more on the right side or not. If it is I’ll say screw it and do new master cylinder/brake hoses. If that doesn’t fix it I don’t know what would. For now it works fine.

only concern as of late is that sometimes when pulling a loaded trailer (probably 1400 pounds with trailer weight /load weight) with lots of braking will eventually cause the brakes to make a “groan” as I’m coming to a stop. Not a metallic groan, the same kind of groan you get sometimes when you’re coming to a slow stop, and let off just as you’re stopping. Except it does it for several seconds while stopping. Brake power also seems a bit weaker when that happens. I suspect I’m experiencing brake fade, since the front brakes in this truck are relatively meager for trailer pulling and get very hot with repeated stops with a trailer. Don’t think this is necessarily related, but who knows.
 
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