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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Earlier this year I said I build a box for a buddy, well I finally got around to it..

He has some older JL 12w1's. They each use 1.5 cubes of space and each sub uses .06 cubes of displacement.

The box is 47" long, bottom is 18" top is 16".. I'm using 3/4th MDF.. If my math is right, with sub installed I should have a little under 1.5^3 of space per chamber..

If someone want to check my math.. that'd be awesome..

Here are some shots of his old box.. yikes.. He's got some decent subs, but the box is pretty beat.



top shot..



Back shot..



I got most of the wood cut how I wanted in this shot..



Getting the bottom and sides screwed in..



Back wall..



Top..



Top trim part...



Got all my dividers all cut out..



Pretty much put together..



Lower mount holes, and trim holes cut out..



Still need to round all the hard edges, add some internal bracing, need to glue it all together, fiberglass the inside of it, rubberize undercoat the inside of it, wire it up, and mount the subs.

My buddy works for an auto body shop.. I might carpet it, or he might get it painted the same color has his truck. Dunno yet.

anyway.. the above was part of last weekend and todays work.. Doesn't look like much, thats about 9 hours of work.

another update tomorrow.

comments and suggestions are always welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
This was about 6 hours of work today.. I ran out of fiberglass resign.. So I have to pick more up tomorrow. Depending on how things go, I might not be able to work on this till next weekend.

Anyway.. I got out there and test fit the sub, and drilled the speaker holes for each speaker.



Next I cut up some fiber glass matt, and got my t-nuts out. I'm using 24-10 T-nuts this time around.



Here is some matt..



Fold it in half



Then shove the T-Nut through it.



Then hammer it into the under side of the mounting hole. I do this, so I can add a little fiber glass resign to it to make it rock solid.



And this speaker hole is all done.



All done.



I didn't get any pictures, but I drilled a few more screw holes and rounded some of the edges..

Then I took the whole thing apart. In the following picture you can see I have the base of the box and some strips of fiber glass matt. I lay down some glue, fiber glass matt on the glue and then start screwing things together. I do this because some of my cuts are not 100% stright, so the glue plus fiberglass helps fix this. Also makes it nice and strong.



Here is one chamber pretty much glued together.



Then I start on the top. Same thing. My cuts are not 100% stright so, I sandwich some fiber glass matt between the wood with lots of glue to make up the difference.



Just another better shot.



On and screwed down..



Then I lay more matt down on the edges, and resign the crap out of it. You are looking at 2 layers of matt here.



Time was running short.. But I did all the edges. Here is an inside shot. Again, not all my edges were 100% straight so the matt makes up the difference. It also helps to seal each chamber. I've done this withe every box I've built and have had excellent results.



Out side shot.



At this point, I ran out of fiberglass resign.. So I needed to pick more up. Plus it was getting late, and I was hungry for dinner so I called it a day.

Still have a little bit more fiber glassing I have to do. Next I have to do the internal bracing, spray each chamber with 3m rubberized under coating, round some of the remaining edges, fill all the holes and sand any weird spots.

My buddy decided he's going to have his friend spray the whole box with something like Line-X, but with more rubber in the mix, and color matched to the inside of his truck. My buddy is a base ball umpire, so he's always tossing his gear into the back of his truck.. Having the exterior of the box sprayed with rubized coating will prevent it from getting beat up and keep it looking nice.

Thats it for today.. I'm about 15 hours into this build.. I think I'll have 25 hours or less into this once its done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
thanks!

If you do use the t-nut fiber glass idea, make sure you do it before you screw the mounting part back down. Its easier to install them before you glue it all together. Installing them inside the box sucks. Also, make sure you screw some bolts into the t-nuts. If you don't, the resign gets into the t-nut hole and can ruin the threads. trust me.. 2 hard lessons learned.
 

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Going sealed why?
 

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Zr2USA = B_Rich
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Going sealed why?
Shit dude, nothing positive to say? The guy is doing awesome work here. This obviously isn't his first rodeo. He did a great job centering the subs on the baffle, he's using T-nuts, putting resin on the inside, sealing up the interior edges (I'll be honest, not every edge in my box is sealed up with caulk), and you have nothing to say about any of that, except "Going sealed, why?"

Do you have any idea how big a properly built ported enclosure for 3 12's would be? I'd say about 6 cubes + port volume, maybe a little less if you decided to be conservative with the tune. The guy whos truck this is going into is a baseball ref, so he throws a lot of gear back there. Space is a concern. I'd be willing to bet you didn't even read his post. You probably just took a glance at the pictures, saw an opportunity to criticize, and jumped on it like a fat chick chasing after a runaway donut.

This forum doesn't need comments like that.

(I swear I'm gonna get banned one of these days for standing up for someone or correcting someone).
 

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Got Art?
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Shit dude, nothing positive to say? The guy is doing awesome work here. This obviously isn't his first rodeo. He did a great job centering the subs on the baffle, he's using T-nuts, putting resin on the inside, sealing up the interior edges (I'll be honest, not every edge in my box is sealed up with caulk), and you have nothing to say about any of that, except "Going sealed, why?"

Do you have any idea how big a properly built ported enclosure for 3 12's would be? I'd say about 6 cubes + port volume, maybe a little less if you decided to be conservative with the tune. The guy whos truck this is going into is a baseball ref, so he throws a lot of gear back there. Space is a concern. I'd be willing to bet you didn't even read his post. You probably just took a glance at the pictures, saw an opportunity to criticize, and jumped on it like a fat chick chasing after a runaway donut.

This forum doesn't need comments like that.

(I swear I'm gonna get banned one of these days for standing up for someone or correcting someone).
the day you get banned for that i will quit this place too, plus the fat chick chasing a runaway doughnut, classic.:blaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Going sealed why?
Looking at the specs here:http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/12W1_BDS.pdf

I would need 2.5 cubes of feet per sub. I didn't want the box to go any higher because I wanted it below the window line, which means it would have been much deeper. He needs the space, so that wouldn't work.

Also, if he decideds to swap these subs out with something else, a seal box would be a little more forgiving then a ported box. I'll be honest, I'm no pro.. but sealed boxes are much more forgiving then ported ones when inside volumes are a little off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's what it all starts with, a simple question.

I apologize if I'm in the wrong here by making inaccurate assumptions.

s'all gravy man. no problems and no worries. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
the nice thing about the t-nuts is you can unscrew the sub how ever many times you want with out ruining the wood.

and why the hell does t-nuts sound so wrong to me? rofl.
 

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Mr. SQ
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the nice thing about the t-nuts is you can unscrew the sub how ever many times you want with out ruining the wood.

and why the hell does t-nuts sound so wrong to me? rofl.

the problem with t-nuts is the little teeth that are supposed to dig into the wood can let go while you are trying to unscrew the screw and it just spins and spins.
 

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Zr2USA = B_Rich
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the problem with t-nuts is the little teeth that are supposed to dig into the wood can let go while you are trying to unscrew the screw and it just spins and spins.
That's why it's a good idea to fiberglass/wood glue/jb weld the t-nuts to the underside of the baffle.
 
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