[97SSindiana]

Dumb question but I gotta ask. I talked to a cutomer of ours and he was asking about my dash where I fiberglassed it and then about me doors. Long story short he told me that I didnt have to take paint off to use the body filler. Is that true? I am using Evercoat lightweight filler.

Thanks,
Shannon

 

[DfntPntbll]

you should take it down to primer and then put it on. if you have done body work that involves working raw metal, then you need to scuff, spray your primer, sand, bondo, shape, sand smooth, guide coat of dark primer (usually black), correct low spots, shape, sand smooth, fill pin holes with spot putty, sand smooth again, primer again with filler primer, sand, add sealer primer, sand then paint (repeat for how ever many coats), clear for at least 3 coats.

 

[rbryant4]

why black primer?

i always heard better to use light prime so u can get all the little pin holes. black usually hides the little details that need to be fixed!

 

[primer_forever]

Dumb question but I gotta ask. I talked to a cutomer of ours and he was asking about my dash where I fiberglassed it and then about me doors. Long story short he told me that I didnt have to take paint off to use the body filler. Is that true? I am using Evercoat lightweight filler.

Thanks,
Shannon

If you're fixing small dents and dings you just need to get a good scratch in the paint....pretty much just sand the spot with 80 grit and apply your filler. That is if the original paint is in good condition...if not take it down to metal and use a filler that is made for bare metal like Z-grip

Hope this helps

 

[DfntPntbll]

why black primer?

i always heard better to use light prime so u can get all the little pin holes. black usually hides the little details that need to be fixed!

it is easier to see low spots when you use a darker guide coat. ever notice how you dont see dents as easily on a white truck as you do on a black one?

 

[Burton]

I always take my repairs down to metal and feather back into the paint (If its a spot repair). I just like the bound between the filler and metal with a good scratch. And most fillers recommend applying to a bare metal surface with a 36 scratch.

 

[Sir Toad]

I always take my repairs down to metal and feather back into the paint (If its a spot repair). I just like the bound between the filler and metal with a good scratch. And most fillers recommend applying to a bare metal surface with a 36 scratch.

ditto,exceptions would be small dings repaired with glaze. i repaired my roof and hood after a hail storm,i scuffed into the factory primer(and feathered) no shrinkage period.

body filler on paint is a no no.

as far as the prime bare metal,apply body filler,etc.you can do this with epoxies but i prefer the mechanical bond.

 

[96dragginSdime]

ya I was taught you always want the filler on bare metal.... and the guide coats that I have seen have been black....

 

[97SSindiana]

Thanks for all the input.

 

[developed]

I always take my repairs down to metal and feather back into the paint (If its a spot repair). I just like the bound between the filler and metal with a good scratch. And most fillers recommend applying to a bare metal surface with a 36 scratch.

Same here. I like to use a light-colored, heavy epoxy-based primer.

 

[BlackEsDime]

jesus dude! you have alot of steps...

I just take it down to metal, filler, straighten, da with 220 to feather edges, filler primer, guide coat, wet sand with 200, thin coat of filler primer, guide coat, wet sand with 600, paint

 

[97SSindiana]

it was where i welded the plates over for door hanles and as i started to feather I found the jackpot of bondo. he said to save on the amount of work, sand down with 150, fill, guide coat, fill, 180 prime.

 

[rbryant4]

yea, i understand the hole black primer for guide coat. but for me the easiest way to get the little bitty pin holes for me is light grey.. but now that u mention it i would think black is a better choice for a guide coat. never thought of it that way lol!