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9" strait pipes...
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am making adapters to use your trucks factory cables on the 98+ blazer rear disks. you will have to cut your factory cable to the correct length and this will slide over the cable and attach via set screws. shorten and reuse the old return spring (not pictured). they should work on any truck with the blazer brake swap, but i have only tried them on my 86. Price will be $40/pair shipped(in the us, flat rate box) with set screws, you will need to paint them or let them rust. lock tite is highly recommended. i just got some steel stock today and will start banging them out as time permits. my only concern is those of you with manual transmissions that will cylce this part a lot, im not sure how it will hold up over the long haul where it contacts the brake lever. any interest?







 

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9" strait pipes...
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2,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: blazer brake swap owners w/o e-brake look here!

This will also work with the 8.8 swap, just to expand your customer base!

Would need to have the cable return spring in place though.
great thanks! someone had mentioned it might in another forum.
 

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9" strait pipes...
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2,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Had you done this 10 months ago i would have jumped on it..
sry, had you waited 10 onths, id of had a solution for you :). what did you end up doing?
 

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Longbeds FTMFW
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8,623 Posts
I tossed the ebrake entirely, and when I did the BD, the DS tub eliminated one of the e-brake pedal mount points, and the fusebox covered up the others lol.

Mine has the 8.8, so if you want measurements of the paw that your bitchin adapter hooks to, let me know
 

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9" strait pipes...
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2,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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9" strait pipes...
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2,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
8 sets are available immediately! these took a little more time/effort that i thought so after this first batch of 8 sets i will be raising the price to $55. that still includes shipping, and set screws. consider this an introductory offer. already have 2 sales pending. pm me.


 

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9" strait pipes...
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2,929 Posts

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9" strait pipes...
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2,929 Posts

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9" strait pipes...
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2,929 Posts

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hogrod11
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4 Posts
are any left just converterd sunday and would love to have my e-brake back, i am making spacers for the 7 5/8 rear end to bolt on stock dime disc brakes there is no need for you to change your whole rear end unless you have a 2.5L or 2.8L
 

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9" strait pipes...
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2,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yup, still have 2 sets left @$40. i will be making the next batch soon, price will go up to $55.
 

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9" strait pipes...
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2,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sold out!

ill make more in the next week or 2 when i get my mill back up and running.

$55 a set from now on.
 

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9" strait pipes...
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2,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
finally got around to a write up. im performing this on my 86 s15, your results may vary, but the main points should still apply.

pay attention to how tight the cables were tensioned before and how they were routed


1. slack the brake cable.

first you need to find the cable equalizer located under the drivers seat area. this needs to be loosened or removed all together. pb blaster or equivalent will help alot, there is a lot of thread and the dirt can act like loctite.

here is the equalizer, first remove the snag guard (rubber boot thing), then loosen or remove the nut that hold the equalizer on, the 3rd nut can stay put.



if you remove the equalizer skip the next step. if the equalizer threads are being a pita, the next step will make it easier.



2. separate the cable (or remove equalizer)

there are 2 cable couples on the brake cable. find one, it looks like this.



on the back there are 2 little tabs, stick a screw driver under either one and push the cable together (like your trying to push them into the couple).



the cable and ferule then just fall out the opening.



now you have all the slack you need to work with.





3. remove ferules and trim cables

this is assuming you have everything apart already and have mounted the new brakes or axle, you should have the drums apart and the cable removed.

cut the ferules off both cables. hold onto the springs.

then cut 3" off of one cable, or 1.5" off of each side. it doesnt matter how you do it, the equalizer will take care of any difference. i used a good pair of diagonal cutters and nipped through the cable a few wires at a time. the cable will flatten out a little, smoosh it back with a pair of pliers and dress the end or any burrs with a file.



4. mark cable depth, loctite setscrews

test fit the adapter over the cable, look in the last setscrew hole and make sure the cable is there and seated all the way in the adapter. mark it with a paint pen, tape, whatever. the adapters will fit snug so it takes a little force to push them on, make sure they are very clean or they will fight you. if they wont go in, make sure the ends dont have burrs or a frayed end sticking out etc.



loctite the setscrews and run them in about half way, make sure the dont protrude on the inside or youll never get the cable in all the way. loctite may or may not be necessary, but i highly recommend it.




hang the adpater on the brake lever





5. cut the return spring and install cable

the return spring needs to be about a 1/4 to 1/2" longer than the gap between the adapter and the end of the outer sheath of the brake cable where it snaps into the bracket. which works out to be about the same length as the adapter or about 2" to 2 1/4" . dress the cut end of the spring and slide it on the cable.




slide the cable all the way into the adapter and tighten a set screw to hold it. they are 2mm allen wrench btw.





snap the cable into the bracket. on my truck the drivers side cable flange had to be filed down to fit the recess in the bracket.



tighten the rest of the set screws.



6. repeat steps 4 and 5 on the opposite side.



7. reconnect cable and tension the equalizer.

snap the cables that you disconnected back together, and/or re install the equalizer on its bolt.

adjust the nuts until the cables are tensioned, but not so tight that they start pulling on the brakes even when the pedal isnt being pushed. this is where the extra length on the return springs works for us. you can tension the cables until you overcome the pre-load of the springs. once you think they are tensioned well, check the brake arms to make sure theyre not being pulled. see if you can pull them back anymore by hand to make sure they are seated in the "home" position. wiggle the adpater to see if its loose on the arm, or being pulled tight against it. readjust as necessary.

8. check for function and coil bind.

press the pedal and see if everything works. these style brakes only require about half the pedal movement before things lock up. dont force the pedal to the floor like you could with the drum emergency brakes. i noticed these only take hand pressure to park the truck!
this is where they stop firmly on my truck



check the return springs on the cable to make sure theyre not coil binding, if they are you cut them to long and need to remove a few coils. it should look like this.




congrats youre safe again!

i should have more of these available soon
 

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Registered
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Very nice work my friend
 
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