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e30experiment.com
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For those that are fine with 4 gauge and want a cheap (~$13) easy way to do this upgrade, you can do what I did when I did my AD244 alternator upgrade. I used pre made 4 gauge switch to starter cables found in the battery section of stores. The 24" was from Walmart for $4.44 and the 19" were from Meijer and were $4.29 each(I used 2). The 24" went from the negative battery to the existing frame ground from the battery. One 19" went from the positive battery to the charge lug on the alternator. The other 19" went from the alternator bolt to the frame ground. I may move this one to the existing engine block ground at some point just to clean up the area a bit.







Stock frame ground location. I just used a longer bolt to bolt the 2 new cables in place.


this big maybe 30-40 stranded wire cable, is no where near as good as a car audio power wire that has way more strands of wire which allows higher current flow.
 

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e30experiment.com
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any why don't people get their alternators rebuilt & beefed up at a local shop that rebuilds them with higher amperage??

adding batteries (w/isolators if using different brands) and capacitors is not the way.

good cables (car audio quality wire, 4awg to 0 or 00 , depending on the load and application) (for alternator/grounds/battery)
+ rebuilt beefed up alternator with a better regulator + good battery (optima yellow top/stinger/ other drycells etc)

I always replace the starter wires also so it looks nice, clean and has even better flow than the old stock ones.
 

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also being "car audio quality" dont mean shit. there is alot of crappy car audio wire that is 4 or 6 awg in a shitload of casing calling it 1/0. wire is wire as long as its true to size (or oversized) and ofc.
 

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goin broke but n style
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i got a 150 amp fuse off of a used car yesterday. they told me to pull the aftermarket wires out for where the PO had an amp installed. the wire was 4ga with a 150 amp use. I wonder who did that. sounds strange to me.
 

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Every current rating chart I've found says to use a 150amp fuse on 4 gauge.
 

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Hello All, I was thinking of doing the big 3 upgrade on my 2000 blazer. I am running a 900w rms amplifier and a single 15 inch sub. I have an optima red top battery and stock alternator. I believe its a 105A alternator. I have some questions about where to mount the 3 wires. The first one goes from battery positive to back of alternator and connects to the power connection on the alternator. Should be easy to do that wire. The 2nd wire, engine block to ground. Can I mount this wire from my alternator mounting bolt to the bolt on my chassie that is to the left of my battery. The bolt is holding a small circular part to the left of my battery. I see that on the thread starter that they used this same bolt. Is it okay to use this bolt as my ground?? The 3rd wire, battery neg to ground. Can I run this wire from my battery neg to that same bolt as the 2nd wire's gorund is attached to?? Do I need to fuse my 1st wire at all?? Should I solder and crimp the wires? Or just crimp them? I do have a soldering gun and lots of solder. I have the 1/0 AWG wires ready for install. Waiting for the ring terminals and battery clamps to come in. Is this an easy job? I heard it can be done in 30 to 40 minutes. Will doing the Big3 upgrade kill my stock alternator?? Or should it have no effect? Thanks and any help will do.
 

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there is already a block ground that you can use. you need to do a batt to frame or chassis ground (both would not hurt). no need to fuse. just crimping is fine as long as its a good connection. your not gonna get very far with a soldering gun on 1/0 lol. propane torch works great for soldering 1/0. it will put less strain on everything on the electrical department. it will not hurt anything.
 

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ok.. I hate to be some pain but that fuse link everyone is talkin about.. it only fuses the battery/Alt from your main fuse panel under the hood.. if you look at it the batt and alt are conected on the same post which means the bat and alt are not fused from eachother.. only from your fuse box.. sooo... no need to worry about a fuse between the alt and batt on the big 3 upgrade cuz there is no previous fuse in between them to begin with..
 

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If the regulator on your alt fails and sends way more juice through the fuse it will blow and not your battery.
 

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Actually.. unless you took out the factory wiring to that fuse box then it wouldnt matter either way since they are connected to the same side of the fuse.. so it would kill your battery anyways and possibly melt that wire and short out your truck.. think i might take out my battery and try again and take a pic for you guys to see.. since not alot of ppl are getting that..
 

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YOU ARE GAY
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hard headed people. if your alts regulator goes out it blows that fuse and tells the although to stop charging causing the alt stop working. so if you don't take out your old wiring then you are fine.
just because you add one more wire does not mean that the alt will still be charging when the regulator goes out and pops that fuse.

read that 4 or 5 times then walk away from the computer and go to sleep when you wake up it will make sense.
 

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ok i know this is an old thread but im going to upgrade my alternator on my 2.2 to the ad244, and while doing it im going to do my big three up grade. can i ground my engine to the negative terminal on the battery? and then ground the battery to the frame?
 
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